Which mudguard(s)? Commuting

[NRB]

I've been sedentary for years and decided it's time to get healthy, so I finally bit the bullet and purchased a Boardman CX Pro that I'm riding casually and have started communting on. What a change from my 25 year old MTB!!

I realise with Melbourne weather that I'm going to need some sort of mudguard to help keep the water off me, but don't want the complete shiny silver style guards and would prefer a shorter black number that will blend with the bike style.

What guards do people recommend?

Thanks,
Nick

[MattyK]

Get full length ones. It will save you regretting your initial decision and getting them later anyway.

SKS Chromoplastics are the benchmark, but I really like my Zefal Paragons - much neater mounting clips.

[DJIntegr8]

What size tyres are you running?

I've seen a couple of Boardmen rolling around the city with SKS Raceblades. I'm running SKS Longboard P45 guards in black with 28-32mm tyres, but they also do a Chromoplastic P35 in black which is shorter and slimmer. I used to run the P35 on my previous bike with 25mm tyres which were great until I destroyed the rear with a very large stick. Also tried out some Planet Bike guards but wasn't happy with the profile (rubbed a bit around the brake bridge) and the silver vinyl started to peel off.

Cheers,
Brendan

[NRB]

I've got Ritchey Excavader 700 x 35c tyres on it at the moment, but will probably change them out for something more road like (Maxxis Detonator?) given I'll hardly get it off on trails for most use.

I was hoping to avoid full length guards (yes I know, style over function ), but if the consensus is reduced length guards are rubbish then I guess the decision is made for me!

Thanks again everyone,
Nick

[Nobody]

I was hoping to avoid full length guards (yes I know, style over function ), but if the consensus is reduced length guards are rubbish then I guess the decision is made for me!

The main advantage of long mudguards are to protect your drive train and your feet. The best ones for this are SKS Longboards. SKS are bringing out new Longboards in 2014 which have even more coverage.
http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/09/29/ib1 ... es-longer/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Are reduced length guards rubbish? Depends what you want to protect.

[Mulger bill]

Zefal Paragons have provided brilliant service on my commuter for some time now and like Matty, I love the low profile look of the mounting clips.
In fact, a good tight to the tyre install is as stealth as it gets IMO.

[snortin]

I've been sedentary for years and decided it's time to get healthy, so I finally bit the bullet and purchased a Boardman CX Pro that I'm riding casually and have started communting on. What a change from my 25 year old MTB!!

I realise with Melbourne weather that I'm going to need some sort of mudguard to help keep the water off me, but don't want the complete shiny silver style guards and would prefer a shorter black number that will blend with the bike style.

What guards do people recommend?

Thanks,
Nick

I got some of these 2 years ago.
http://www.this link is broken/crud-roadracer- ... guard-set/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
On special at the moment at wiggle - can't go wrong for $27.
They have different length attachments to make them long/short as you like. You can also leave off the extra length if you like to make them super short.
The installation is a little bit tricky, but they work really well and don't detract from the road bike "look" too much. They also sit pretty close to the tyre so have the advantage of flicking off bits of glass (some brush guides that sit close to the rims to guide the guard also help in this regard). They are lightweight but sturdy - they have not snapped even when I took both wheels off and put my bike in my boot (the thermoplastic folds and bends, so you need to straigthen out when you get the bike out and readjust)
You have to be careful to install with loctite or otherwise regularly check the screw and nut are tight (ie every week or 2) on the extra length attachments. I know as one of the lengths fell off last year (not bad though as I hadn't checked the nut in over a year!!).
I would purchase again - if you get some of these, watch the youtube or manufacturer installation video. Have a read of the customer reviews...

[DavidS]

I have SKS chromplastics and they are excellent. I also have nice leather Brooks mudflaps on both front and back and they make a very large difference. I don't get much road grime on me at all and I do end up riding in the rain sometimes, take this afternoon for example. On a commuter bike mudguards are essential IMO and mud flaps are a very big improvement over even full length mudguards.

DS

[simonn]

I got SKS Bluemels Mudguards (42mm) for my Boardman CX comp. I took them off though because, at least in Sydney, you do not have the problem of water staying on the road for days - the roads dry off pretty quickly - and when it rains, it really rains, really really rains, and having mudguards is about as useful has having a paper umbrella. In any case, the distance/time to work (24km/~1 hour) and hills means I am not going to be riding in office clothes anyway so why worry about staying dry...?

TL;DR You are going to get wet when it rains and probably need to take a change of clothes anyway means mudguards are of little utility.

EDIT: Also, your feet will probably get in the way of the front guard when turning sharp corners - more of a problem on shared paths and the like, I am thinking about the shared footbridge thing in Naremburn, Sydney.

[boyracer]

Here's my commuter with P45 SKS's fitted on 35 mm tyres.
Although they're not actually black, more a browny colour, they are pretty stealth.
Fwiw i would actually go longer at front if you want dry feet.
I might try removing the crown mount and rotating the front down a bit.
I have tried a flexxy mudguard but don't like the look.

[il padrone]

Fwiw i would actually go longer at front if you want dry feet.
I might try removing the crown mount and rotating the front down a bit.

Buddy Flaps




If you're in Melbourne, Abbotsford Cycles sell them I believe.

[queequeg]

Likewise, P45s on my commuter. Yes, you still get wet, but two bid advantages.

1) no road spray up your back or all over your shoes/legs, so no dirt or mud
2) no water getting thrown up into the rear lights, so they continue to function.
3) keeps the bike much cleaner, unless you ride through water that is up to the wheel hubs deep (oops)

[nezumi]

Likewise, P45s on my commuter. Yes, you still get wet, but two bid advantages.

1) no road spray up your back or all over your shoes/legs, so no dirt or mud
2) no water getting thrown up into the rear lights, so they continue to function.
3) keeps the bike much cleaner, unless you ride through water that is up to the wheel hubs deep (oops)

The other part to this: generally speaking, the stuff coming down from on high is clean/water only.

The stuff that your tyres collect from the ground..... might not be. Especially if you ride in the CBD, you will be grateful for mudguards if you are unfortunate enough to ride through the puddle of vomit left for you by the Thursday night revellers.

[warthog1]

The stuff that your tyres collect from the ground..... might not be. Especially if you ride in the CBD, you will be grateful for mudguards if you are unfortunate enough to ride through the puddle of vomit left for you by the Thursday night revellers.

I'd be going for ground scraping mudflaps too

I've got 35mm SKS chromoplastics on my commuter running 25mm tyres pumped up fairly hard. Surprised how well they stay in place despite the bumps and vibrations.
I haven't tried 'em out on vomit yet despite traversing an area of significant bogan habitation on my commute.

[biker jk]

I have the 35mm SKS Chromoplastics on my wet weather bike (duh!). Overall, my rating is not too bad. A few issues. First, the front mudguard doesn't extend low enough so that the bottom one-third of the downtube gets wet (water, mud, hits the bottom bracket and cable guide). Second, the rear bracket which attaches the brake bolt broke. I replaced it and the new one has dug into the mudguard which produced a rattle due to the movement (fixed with cable ties).

[warthog1]

the front mudguard doesn't extend low enough so that the bottom one-third of the downtube gets wet (water, mud, hits the bottom bracket and cable guide).

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sks-long-mudflap-prod25599/



I was going to suggest the above but maybe they've stopped making them. SJS lists them as out of stock and a quick search doesn't cough up much

[biker jk]

the front mudguard doesn't extend low enough so that the bottom one-third of the downtube gets wet (water, mud, hits the bottom bracket and cable guide).

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/sks-long-mudflap-prod25599/



I was going to suggest the above but maybe they've stopped making them. SJS lists them as out of stock and a quick search doesn't cough up much

Thanks but when the SKS Chromoplastics die I will likely but some of these (expensive but very highly rated). I forgot to mention the third issue with the SKS mudguards - having to cut the stays to size.

https://www.ridepdw.com/goods/fenders/f ... al-fenders

[DavidS]

Do mudflaps with style:





Excellent addition to my mudguards.

DS

[90125]

Fwiw i would actually go longer at front if you want dry feet.
I might try removing the crown mount and rotating the front down a bit.

Buddy Flaps

Such flaps are essential for proper mudguard/fender use.

[biker jk]

Does anyone know where I can buy the PDW Full Metal Fenders for a road bike? The UK online shops I've found are out of stock (Winstanleybikes). My SKS Chromoplastics are close to death. I've gone through two rear brackets (metal is too thin and splits).

[Aushiker]

I have had a good run out of a set of SKS Chromoplastics mudguards on my Surly Long Haul Trucker but the P35 SKS Chromoplastic mudguards fitted to my Kinesis Racelight Granfondo Ltd where not so good and I replaced them with a set of Crud Roadracer Mk2 mudguards which also turned out to be less than ideal.



The latest set on the bike are a set of SKS Raceblade Longs which have been up to the task.





I also have a set of Planet Bike Hardcore Recumbent (recumbent just refers to being able to be brought separately and flexibility of mounting) and they are working out well as well. They are now on my LoGo Lightning P-38 but the front started out on my Bacchetta Giro 20 ATT ... they can be easily fitted much tighter to the wheel than in the photos.





Andrew

[Sir Stinkalot]

I have been using the SKS Chromoplastics for a few years and have found them to be very sturdy so far. The initial adjustment is a bit of a pain but once they are set you shouldn't need to adjust again. Mine had a quick release buckle so that the guards would come off if a twig or something got stuck but it wouldn't fit with the disc brakes and was removed. As I wear my work clothes when riding I find them handy as even on a dry day I often come across water on bike paths due to over watering of the parklands.

I would just hope that more commuters see the light as quite often I end up getting stuck behind somebody and getting covered in their wheel spray muck.

[Blakeylonger]

Does anyone know where I can buy the PDW Full Metal Fenders for a road bike? The UK online shops I've found are out of stock (Winstanleybikes). My SKS Chromoplastics are close to death. I've gone through two rear brackets (metal is too thin and splits).

Most any lbs can order them in. There's an oz distro.

They're a bit narrow unless you're running 23mm tyres, although they released a wider model this week. Plus the stay hardware is a bit meh. Those set screws strip out a bit too easily. The rear is also too short. Great for race bikes, but if you can fit real full coverage guards, go that way.

But if your chromoplastics aren't lasting a few years minimum you need to spend more time installing them to minimise stress on them.

[biker jk]

Does anyone know where I can buy the PDW Full Metal Fenders for a road bike? The UK online shops I've found are out of stock (Winstanleybikes). My SKS Chromoplastics are close to death. I've gone through two rear brackets (metal is too thin and splits).

Most any lbs can order them in. There's an oz distro.

They're a bit narrow unless you're running 23mm tyres, although they released a wider model this week. Plus the stay hardware is a bit meh. Those set screws strip out a bit too easily. The rear is also too short. Great for race bikes, but if you can fit real full coverage guards, go that way.

But if your chromoplastics aren't lasting a few years minimum you need to spend more time installing them to minimise stress on them.

Thanks. The SKS Chromoplastics were installed correctly. The rear bracket is too thin and the vibration eventually leads to it breaking across the brake bolt hole. It's happened on two of my brackets and one of my better half's. A few mm thicker and no problem. Then the four prongs which hold the rear guard dug into the guard so that it rattles. These guards don't last longer than a year or two with regular use. I run 23mm tyres so the 30mm wide PDW Full Metal Fenders will be fine.

[Blakeylonger]

Thanks. The SKS Chromoplastics were installed correctly. The rear bracket is too thin and the vibration eventually leads to it breaking across the brake bolt hole. It's happened on two of my brackets and one of my better half's. A few mm thicker and no problem. Then the four prongs which hold the rear guard dug into the guard so that it rattles. These guards don't last longer than a year or two with regular use. I run 23mm tyres so the 30mm wide PDW Full Metal Fenders will be fine.

I have four sets of chromoplastics (and various other alloy guards) over different bikes currently, I have tens of thousands of kms on the most used set and one vintage ESGE set from an early 80's Claud Butler, the only issue I see with them is the delamination at the ends after years, *If they're installed so there is no or minimal stress on them*.

Use a set of pliers (hozan lockring wrench is perfect) to close up the tabs and clamp the bracket to the guard to stop the rattle.
Bend the stays near the eyelet so the mounting hole is parallel to the eyelet and the stay runs in a straight line to the guard.
Use spacers to get the guards the right distance from the tyre, don't pull it into place with the stays/mounts.

This applies to all fenders, fancy Honjos will fatigue crack too if they're not fitted right.

If you want to get next level; drill out the stay mounts, reshape and rivet them on the outside, cut a mudflap from an HDPE bottle and rivet/bolt it to the guard like so:


Next next level: use an old rear for the front to get more guard at the front and bottom, plus a mudflap.

Because you don't want to be a chump, or worse.



If all that's failing on yours is the bracket, drill a hole in the guard and bolt to the SS bridge mount / ziptie around it / rivet a thicker bracket to it.