Duck! wrote:Comparison of brake service, which I do on a daily basis....
Rim brake bike:
Check pad wear. If low, replace pads. If OK, pick bits of grit out of pads. File pad surface to remove glazing & other finer gritty bits. Check cables for fraying, rusting, excessive friction. If frayed or corroded, replace cables. If OK, lubricate cables. Check caliper pivots for excess friction/binding. Disassemble, clean and lubricate pivots as necessary. Check rims for wear. If bad, advise customer that new rim + rebuild, or new wheel is required. Adjust pad toe-in. Adlust contact height on rim. Adjust cables for proper contact stroke. If new cables, stretch and adjust (section relating to cables equally valid for mechanical discs).
Disc brake (esp. hydro) bike:
Check pad wear. If low, replace pads and push pistons back to reset clearance. If OK, scuff on sandpaper to remove surface glazing. Refit pads. Check rotor wear. If too thin, replace rotors. If good, leave alone. Check caliper alignment over rotor. Check brake pressure, bleed if spongy or if fluid expansion has reduced stroke..
Three lines for disc brake service vs six lines for rim brake. And you tell me disc brakes need more maintenance.
hmmm I kinda dont do any of those things with any of my road bikes on a regular basis. I just seem to have trouble with my MTB disc brakes "regularly", alignment, scrapping and mileage/hours comparison of use is miles ahead on the road bike. The pistons are not coming out evenly (Avid juicy 7) I just got myself some new pistons and heres to me hoping that means it will last for a long time after all this ....
my front cable operated dsic brake on the commuter does seem fairly low maintenance, but I do need to get the proper torx driver to wind the pads in, they do seem to wear much more.
my next road bike is very likely going to by disc braked, I really do hope maintence is low as your saying cause man am I sick of flaffing around with these damn hydro disc brakes