Continental GP 5000 tyres

[10speedsemiracer]

On the subject of pricing, the only pricing I can find at the moment is from OS sellers and range from AUD $91 (Merlin) to AUD $107 (Wiggle/c r c) .. whether this initial pricing is designed to push existing GP4000s out the door or is going to be the regular pricing, I don't know.

Not really a cost-effective tyre though at this point. Shame.

[g-boaf]

On the subject of pricing, the only pricing I can find at the moment is from OS sellers and range from AUD $91 (Merlin) to AUD $107 (Wiggle/c r c) .. whether this initial pricing is designed to push existing GP4000s out the door or is going to be the regular pricing, I don't know.

Not really a cost-effective tyre though at this point. Shame.

Then buy the Pirelli P-Zero or S-works Turbo 26C for the moment. Both are cheaper.

GP5000 can't be worth that much.

[10speedsemiracer]

Then buy the Pirelli P-Zero or S-works Turbo 26C for the moment. Both are cheaper.

GP5000 can't be worth that much.

Will probably stick with my Vittoria rubber. Have had excellent experience with them in various types and sizes, but as happens to all of us, we wonder if the other side of the fence is nicer..

[NASHIE]

Then buy the Pirelli P-Zero or S-works Turbo 26C for the moment. Both are cheaper.

GP5000 can't be worth that much.

Will probably stick with my Vittoria rubber. Have had excellent experience with them in various types and sizes, but as happens to all of us, we wonder if the other side of the fence is nicer..

Recently swapped out Vittoria open corsa’s for P-Zero’s to see if the grass is greener, and it’s same shade of green, wouldnt bother.

[Philistine]

While the attention of the forum is focused on Conti GP tyres, I wonder if I could ask a question.

2 years ago I bought another bike, which came equipped with Campagnolo Zondas & Conti GP4000 tyres. I fitted a pair of carbon wheels almost immediately and the Zondas have been collecting dust since then. A couple of days ago, I took my No 2 bike out (which is still my regular steed, don't ask me why), and the front tyre was flat. To avoid delaying my ride I put the Zonda front wheel on - and I got the distinct impression the bike was faster! When I got home, I swapped out the 11 cog cluster on the Zonda rear wheel for a 10 cog, and fitted it to my No 2 bike. Next time I took the bike out it seemed faster again.

The Zonda wheels replaced a pair of Prolite Bracciano A42s, and I wouldn't have expected to see any difference in performance. The only other variable is the tyres - Michelin Lithion 2 replaced by Cont GP4000. Are the Contis really that good or am I imagining it?

[10speedsemiracer]

While the attention of the forum is focused on Conti GP tyres, I wonder if I could ask a question.

2 years ago I bought another bike, which came equipped with Campagnolo Zondas & Conti GP4000 tyres. I fitted a pair of carbon wheels almost immediately and the Zondas have been collecting dust since then. A couple of days ago, I took my No 2 bike out (which is still my regular steed, don't ask me why), and the front tyre was flat. To avoid delaying my ride I put the Zonda front wheel on - and I got the distinct impression the bike was faster! When I got home, I swapped out the 11 cog cluster on the Zonda rear wheel for a 10 cog, and fitted it to my No 2 bike. Next time I took the bike out it seemed faster again.

The Zonda wheels replaced a pair of Prolite Bracciano A42s, and I wouldn't have expected to see any difference in performance. The only other variable is the tyres - Michelin Lithion 2 replaced by Cont GP4000. Are the Contis really that good or am I imagining it?

The Lithion/Lithion 2 is an entry level tyre and would not stack up against a Conti GP4k, with a 4w difference (AT) 100psi. Will qualify this by saying that I've only used one pair of Michelin Lithions (they were cheap, thought I'd try). The GP4000 is commonly regarded as the sweet spot between durability/grip/resistance.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.co ... slick-2015

[10speedsemiracer]

Then buy the Pirelli P-Zero or S-works Turbo 26C for the moment. Both are cheaper.

GP5000 can't be worth that much.

Will probably stick with my Vittoria rubber. Have had excellent experience with them in various types and sizes, but as happens to all of us, we wonder if the other side of the fence is nicer..

Recently swapped out Vittoria open corsa’s for P-Zero’s to see if the grass is greener, and it’s same shade of green, wouldnt bother.

That's what I thought would be the case..thanks for taking the bullet for us all.

[NASHIE]

Will probably stick with my Vittoria rubber. Have had excellent experience with them in various types and sizes, but as happens to all of us, we wonder if the other side of the fence is nicer..

Recently swapped out Vittoria open corsa’s for P-Zero’s to see if the grass is greener, and it’s same shade of green, wouldnt bother.

That's what I thought would be the case..thanks for taking the bullet for us all.

That said they are good tyre, and i am a
23mm 110psi rider that’s not super fussy, so the whole wider softer market might find them an upgrade.
I really wanted to go tubeless on the roadie this time round, as the tubeless cyclocross bike has been a win win, but tax bill means minister of finance is watching my spending.

[Comedian]

Recently swapped out Vittoria open corsa’s for P-Zero’s to see if the grass is greener, and it’s same shade of green, wouldnt bother.

That's what I thought would be the case..thanks for taking the bullet for us all.

That said they are good tyre, and i am a
23mm 110psi rider that’s not super fussy, so the whole wider softer market might find them an upgrade.
I really wanted to go tubeless on the roadie this time round, as the tubeless cyclocross bike has been a win win, but tax bill means minister of finance is watching my spending.

I really don't know how you run at those pressures. I accidentally pumped my 25's up to 90 psi the other day and went for a ride and it was just horrible.

[NASHIE]

That's what I thought would be the case..thanks for taking the bullet for us all.

That said they are good tyre, and i am a
23mm 110psi rider that’s not super fussy, so the whole wider softer market might find them an upgrade.
I really wanted to go tubeless on the roadie this time round, as the tubeless cyclocross bike has been a win win, but tax bill means minister of finance is watching my spending.

I really don't know how you run at those pressures. I accidentally pumped my 25's up to 90 psi the other day and went for a ride and it was just horrible.

Tried a 25 on the rear and lower pressure etc to see what all fuss was about and didnt like it. Its just what your used to i guess.
Happy at 40psi with the 33s on the x/bike when riding out on the road to train on the tracks, but road bike just love 23s at 110, bit old skool, only went from downtubes to brifters last year

[Gerry.M]

Stupid recommended tyre pressures on the conti web site. Who in their right mind would run 32mm tyres at 85psi.

Me, (on a tandem).

Cheers,

Cameron

Me, (on my flatbar commuter)

[kb]

That said they are good tyre, and i am a
23mm 110psi rider that’s not super fussy, so the whole wider softer market might find them an upgrade.
I really wanted to go tubeless on the roadie this time round, as the tubeless cyclocross bike has been a win win, but tax bill means minister of finance is watching my spending.

I really don't know how you run at those pressures. I accidentally pumped my 25's up to 90 psi the other day and went for a ride and it was just horrible.

Tried a 25 on the rear and lower pressure etc to see what all fuss was about and didnt like it. Its just what your used to i guess.
Happy at 40psi with the 33s on the x/bike when riding out on the road to train on the tracks, but road bike just love 23s at 110, bit old skool, only went from downtubes to brifters last year

Ha. Accidentally did an extended commute at 45psi on GP4000s 23s last week. Didn’t seem much slower (29kph) but topped them up after as they “sounded” too far out of spec:-)

[rodneycc]

Ha. Accidentally did an extended commute at 45psi on GP4000s 23s last week. Didn’t seem much slower (29kph) but topped them up after as they “sounded” too far out of spec:-)

Prob lucky you didn't puncture KB. Every-time I run lower than about 50-60psi I seem to get snakebite punctures on any little bump or grate I come across. So its firm or pay the price for me

[10speedsemiracer]

Stupid recommended tyre pressures on the conti web site. Who in their right mind would run 32mm tyres at 85psi.

Me, (on a tandem).

Cheers,

Cameron

Me, (on my flatbar commuter)

Me as well, I haven't got the nerve to ride around on anything at 45psi...

[Duck!]

The main problem with car tyres is the compound hardens slowly with age, which reduces grip especially in the wet. It is not really a big problem for road cars, but can make a huge difference in race cars. There is a separate problem of rubber cracking, particularly on sidewalls, as tyres age. However, this is more related to environmental exposure in use, and does not really occur in well stored unused tyres.

Relevance to bike tyres? I don't know. However, I don't think there are any markers indicating date of manufacture? So if you buy tyres, you don't know if they have been sitting around on the shelf already for several years.

Not really any different for racing or road car, or bike tyres. The rubber compounds used in the tyre construction contain "plasiciser" chemicals - solvents basically - which contribute to the suppleness of the tyre shell. Over time, the plasticisers evaporate out of the tyre, causing the rubber to harden and become brittle; UV exposure accelerates the process.

Short version: open-air storage with high UV exposure = short shelf life. Open air storage with low UV exposure = better shelf life. Sealed wrapping with low/minimal UV exposure = longest shelf life.