Radbot - 500 v 1000?

misterhorsey
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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby misterhorsey » Fri Aug 09, 2013 10:09 am

Thanks, I'll give it a little fiddle.

Although I should note that it started playing up on the first set of batteries, without having opened up the casing. If the normal bumps and jitters of commuting are enough to cause the contacts to play up, it doesn't provide much reassurance. A few times of coming home and finding out the light had switched off at some point is reason enough to look for another light.

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby thomashouseman » Fri Aug 09, 2013 10:24 am

Mine's done 6000km+ on about 4 sets of batteries. Never found it switched off after a trip. It's been through rain, hail and shine (but is above a mudguard).

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Comedian
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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby Comedian » Fri Aug 09, 2013 11:00 am

thomashouseman wrote:Mine's done 6000km+ on about 4 sets of batteries. Never found it switched off after a trip. It's been through rain, hail and shine (but is above a mudguard).
I got probably 12k out of mine before it was pronounced "sus".

It's a bit harder to estimate the k's for the second one... But maybe similar. That means only 1 year per light. :mrgreen:

Critically I think it's the exposure to vibration that kills them - not actual operation of the light. I used to leave them on year round... But knowing what I know now I'd take them off in summer when they are rarely used.

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby misterhorsey » Fri Aug 09, 2013 11:39 am

Sounds like a good run from you guys.

Mine is also mounted above a mud guard on the back of a pannier rack.

Now I think back, it only started playing up the day after I rode the Main Yarra Trail from Northcote to Westerfolds park. I didn't find the ride particularly bumpy tho.

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby misterhorsey » Fri Aug 09, 2013 12:10 pm

On closer inspection it seems that the culprit is probably the contacts between the battery casing and the circuit board, rather than the contacts holding the batteries in place.

Just not sure whether to apply a little bit of solder to the contacts to make them a bit chunkier.

Or send back to Cell for a exchange/replacement. Bit worried they may not run the light through enough paces to see that its not working as designed.

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby Comedian » Fri Aug 09, 2013 4:56 pm

misterhorsey wrote:On closer inspection it seems that the culprit is probably the contacts between the battery casing and the circuit board, rather than the contacts holding the batteries in place.

Just not sure whether to apply a little bit of solder to the contacts to make them a bit chunkier.

Or send back to Cell for a exchange/replacement. Bit worried they may not run the light through enough paces to see that its not working as designed.
I agree that's the problem. I did think of wiring those contacts... But couldn't be bothered. :mrgreen:

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby rdp_au » Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:56 am

These are the contacts I'm talking about. If tweaking doesn't get them back in the game, then it would indeed be a simple job to solder a couple of fine wires between the contacts. This would fix it once and for all and still allow the case to be opened to replace batteries.

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby Comedian » Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:26 am

rdp_au wrote:These are the contacts I'm talking about. If tweaking doesn't get them back in the game, then it would indeed be a simple job to solder a couple of fine wires between the contacts. This would fix it once and for all and still allow the case to be opened to replace batteries.
What if it's not those contacts, and is in fact the battery contacts?

Would love you to do the experiment and report back. :)

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby rdp_au » Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:28 am

Sure, no problem - just send your light down. Mine's still working fine :-)

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby Comedian » Thu Aug 15, 2013 2:28 pm

rdp_au wrote:Sure, no problem - just send your light down. Mine's still working fine :-)
Cool! Keep us posted. :)

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby Mulger bill » Thu Aug 15, 2013 11:18 pm

So what am I doing wrong? Only time my two 'Bots (seatstay mount) give trouble is when the batteries die :?
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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby Comedian » Fri Aug 16, 2013 7:46 am

Mulger bill wrote:So what am I doing wrong? Only time my two 'Bots (seatstay mount) give trouble is when the batteries die :?
I found they only play up for me after 15k or so of hanging out the back of the roadie in the vibration and water. :o

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby misterhorsey » Wed Aug 28, 2013 10:59 am

I thought I'd upload a video i made of the radbot 'failing' for future reference.



Now I appreciate that jolting that light with the heel of the hand is different to mounting the light on the bike and going over bumps, but its meant to illustrate its susceptibility to turn off by itself. I would hazard to guess that the jolting of the hand will definitely be more forceful than most bumps, however, its also possible that it is less force than the kind of bumps that turn the light off. Or during the course of riding, it may be susceptible to accumulating vibration that makes the contacts lose contact.

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby misterhorsey » Thu Sep 05, 2013 11:15 am

As a follow up, I posted the light back to Cell.

The idea was to buy another light to replace the radbot, and pay any difference. However, they didnt' have any lights in stock that came with pannier rack mounts, which was a key consideration for me. So they've agreed to refund the cost of the light. This is of course in line with mine and your statutory rights relating to buying merchandise that isn't fit for purpose. But overall it was a painless and only mildly inconvenient experience.

So full marks to Cell for dealing with this issue efficiently.

I'm going back to my cateye TL-LD610 with pannier rack mounts for now, and my . Its actually not a bad light. Just wish it had a bit more oomph.

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby dajackal » Wed Jun 18, 2014 1:06 pm

hi guys, i found this thread from the search function....

i'm looking to purchase a rear light to mount to a rear rack i purchased from wiggle

can anyone tell me if the radbot 1000 can be fitted onto this rack without having to purchase another mounting bracket?
http://www.this link is broken.au/tortec-ultralite-rear-rack/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

cheers

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Lizzy
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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby Lizzy » Wed Jun 18, 2014 5:08 pm

Looks to me like it would dajackal, I got one recently, it comes with a mount that should sit nicely flat against that plate across the back. Worst case Ontario you might need to drill another hole or two.
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dajackal
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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby dajackal » Wed Jun 18, 2014 5:46 pm

here's a link to a photo i took:
http://imgur.com/wwo5mSO" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Re: Radbot - 500 v 1000?

Postby warthog1 » Thu Jun 19, 2014 5:38 pm

warthog1 wrote:My radbot 1000 has started playing up, only runs for a few minutes before switching itself off.
It is bright but battery life is poor and a PITA to pull apart and charge every 2 or 3 days. Get a USB rechargeable light. The cygolight sounds good.
Quoting myself like a tosser :roll: Anyway I thought I might point out that they aren't always toast when they play up.
Being a bowerbird I couldn't bring myself to throw this out. :oops:

I now have a pedal nation usb twin.
A B&M secula plus and the radbot1000.
I had to donate my 1/2 watt rear tailight to my son's bike for the ride to footy training so I thought I'd give the radbot another go.
Obviously it has thoroughly dried out over about 11 months of no use and it now works fine :) . It sits above a mudguard and has been through a couple of downpours and multiple rides on wet roads without problem. I also reckon, as has been mentioned in this thread already, if you use this light it's wise to have guards.
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