It's a Bundy!

[QuangVuong]

This bike was on Gumtree for a while, and thanks to Rheicel, I've got it in my hands. For $50 it's a steal!

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/port-mac ... 1023548820

Now, all I wanted was the groupset, but it turns out its a good frame as well. Only rust visible is around the seat clamp bolt hole. The rest if the paint is intact and will clean up quite well.


Bundy on seat stay


Now, a Bundy would mean it is either Reynolds or Columbus tubing. This bike had no identification other than the seat stay and dropouts. But it's weird. It's got 3 different dropouts. The two rear dropouts are Shimano UF, and the front has a Columbus and a Campag. Is the best bet to get it identified, to go to Peter Bundy himself? The bike is quite light at 11.5kg as in pics plus an aero bar.


Hard to see, but it says Brev. Campagnolo


Rear


Bar and stem are Sakae. It's running mainly 1055 components, with RSX brifters. But has what I believe is a Cyclone 7000 FD and crank. Hubs are 6400 32/36 with an UG freehub, laced to unknown rims. They are a bronze/olive colour and are in really good condition. The brake track has not been worn through by the brakes.

The only issue is that the seatpost must be stuck in there, more so to a seatpost that's too fat. How do I go about removing this? Drill a hole through the middle, and shove a screwdriver in, then twist it out? The seatpost is already stuffed, as its got cracks and the clamping bit can be pulled away from the post itself.

This frame is a 57cm ST, 56cm TT, which is on the larger side. My Cadex is a 55(c-c) square and I'd say the best fitting, Centurion is a 56(c-c) square, Peugeot is a 51cm ST 53cm TT. Would this frame be too big? When checking those bike fit calculators, 57cm is the French fit, and when standing over, I can pull it up prob 5cm.

Plans for this is a paint strip, and then polish up the lugs. Paint wise, I'm not entirely sure. I'll be making up some sort of design, which may include metallic blue, and pearl white. Self painted as well. Anyone seen any cool schemes?

[thecaptn]

You've probably put some Penetrine or similar product on the seat post and given it time to work in. I'd then take the seat off, grab 2 large pairs of curved jaw ViseGrips and sandpaper. Clamp the Vicegrips near the top of the post on either side after removing any loose or oily substance to allow them to grip. Grab a mate with a hammer. Hold the frame between your legs and twist the post firmly while your mate taps/smacks the top of the shaft to release it.

If you end up with it mangled beyond help you can still get it out with a long round file.

Good luck!
Pete

[rheicel]

Great frame Quang, if only my size. You should enjoy it.

[rogerrabbit]

If those efforts fail, I have resorted to cutting off the post about an inch about the frame and then cutting the length of the seat post with a hacksaw blade with a bit of cloth wrapped around the end. It takes me about an hour of cutting. The frame tube is much harder than the post do you can tell when you hit the frame. A PITA but as a last resort it does work, so you can remove your seat post one way or the other.

Nice frame

[find_bruce]

RobertFrith had to employ extreme measures to remove the post from his Swansea 6 Swan track bike so all is not lost.

[QuangVuong]

I have sprayed some Inox MX3 in and around the post, so tomorrow Ill have a go at twisting it out. If not, Ill have to cut it.

Anyway, these are the rims. What do you reckon it is? Im thinking its Wolber Profil TX or some sort of Araya. If they arent anything special, Ill delace and build some other wheels. Maybe Ill be needing that tensiometer from you Bruce.

[LG]

I'll need to check the shed tomorrow, but think my TX profile rim has a slightly different shape to that.

[matt1986]

I'll need to check the shed tomorrow, but think my TX profile rim has a slightly different shape to that.

Yep, not so boxy, from memory.

[QuangVuong]

Yeah, I dont think its any good anymore after removing tyres. Turns out they are a single walled rim, and they made up most of the weight of the bike. Delacing them soon, then hubs are off to be built up to Velocity Aeroheads.

Seatpost is still stuck. I tried what I suggested up top, but cracked the post. Now Ive still have got half of the visible post remaining to work on, but I better read up on some methods of stuck post removal. I have stripped the rest of the frame, without issues, other than not finding a 15mm socket for the crank screws.

The build will prob be on hold for 3 months til after the HSC though.

[frailer5]

Sheldon's thoughts, points 8~12 Point 8 is particularly relevant. Drāno's an interesting one...

That is some bike for $50. :faint:

And note this

The contents of a CO2 tire inflation cartridge applied inside the seatpost can shrink it down just enough to do the trick.

[QuangVuong]

Marc, here's the fork steerer. There's no felt pen writing that I can see, so it probably has been cleaned off. However, it looks like the purple is the original colour from the over spray. Now, should I keep the paint like this? It is in very good condition, and there isn't that much rust. Or go custom colours?




Weight is 680g.

[rustychisel]

rims = Araya CT 19 ???

[marc2131]

Quang
I say keep the original paint job. It looks pretty groovy anyway.
Here is a link to my post-1967 Bundy I was telling u about: http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewt ... py#p796551" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I'll ride it the next time we have another vintage ride.
Stay in touch.
marc

[QuangVuong]

Maybe I will keep the paint job. But first, I think Ill wait til I grow and fit the frame better. I prob will drop by Peter Bundy and see what he reckons, esp about the mismatched dropouts.

I thinking of joining the Sat Slowies ride next week with the Cadex, so I guess Ill get to see yours then.

[Kermit TF]

Looks sweet....
Bring that frame to me and I'll get the post out...
Ive never met a post I couldnt budge, and Ive met some bad ones....

[marc2131]

I thinking of joining the Sat Slowies ride next week with the Cadex, so I guess Ill get to see yours then.

Great Quang.
Will tell the others about you coming along. We leave from the 'Marrick' cafe, 1/212 Marrickville Rd, Marrickville at 6.30am sharp. If you are unable to meet us at this time, you can always meet us at Centennial Park (Robertson Road gates). We enter from Anzac Pde at about 7am, then mindlessly do laps and then meet up at the Robertson Road gates at 8am sharp for the ride back to cafe at Marrickville Rd, Marrickville. We hang around till about 9.30 or 10 then head back home.
You can't miss the Dulwich Hill Bicycle Club bunch - sea of red jerseys.
Regards
marc

[QuangVuong]

I'm resuming this build now. But I am still at the stage as a few months ago. These crank bolts are Sugino 15, and that's the one socket size I can't find. I borrow a socket, but it doesn't fit in the extractor thread holes. Do I need a peanut butter wrench?


Anyway, once the cranks are out, it'll be time to dissolve out the seatpost. Then I'll strip the paint. The new scheme will involve blues, but I have not thought through the full scheme yet. The groupset will be a mix of anything that's polishable, and probably will end up being 10s.

[jaseyjase]

1/2" and 3/8" drive make a difference.

if your 1/2" socket dosnt fit, try the 3/8" 15mm socket. should do the trick

the walls are slightly thinner on the 3/8", so should fit

[rheicel]

I am guessing it's drilling time!

[LG]

I have in the past also dealt with 15mm crank bolts and tried a 3/8 " drive 15mm socket, which was very close to fitting within the extractor thread, but sadly very close still didn't quite fit. My 15mm socket now looks pretty dodgy as I used a grinder to take about 0.5mm off the outside of the socket allowing it to fit.

Maybe you can find a thinner walled socket as jaseyjase suggests, and good luck to you if you do, but the grinder modification is also a cheap option.

[HappyHumber]

My crank puller tool has an integrated, narrow walled 15mm socket at one end. Hex shaped outside allows me to just use an open end spanner or mofo crescent to then turn it.

Come to think of it, this puller was one my first bike specific tools back in about 2002. If you can find a source, you shouldn't need to pay more than about about $10-15. Probably a better investment if you're twiddling with square taper cranks with any frequency

Not mine.. but damn near identical:



other views of the same thing from Amazon here

[LG]

Sadly most crank bolts and pullers are 14mm, many older sugino, stronglight, campag et al bolts are 15mm, which is the problem quang has come up against.

[HappyHumber]

I stand corrected on the 15mm socket size.... sorry.

'sfunny.. I don't recall having come across any 15mm crank bolts as yet. Possibly what threw me off.
I've must've undone & pulled dozens of cranks with my tool. One to watch out for anyway...

[edit : reread the issue and corrected my self]

[QuangVuong]

Yeah, that peanut butter wrench is used to undo track axles nuts. Its got the thinnest sidewalls, so would fit into the crank. Its handle is a nice flat shape, and a good size for scooping and spreading peanut butter. That's where it derived its nickname from.

[HappyHumber]

Ah well.. considering the 15mm has died out as a crank bolt size - I'd just probably buy a dedicated 3/8" drive 15mm socked to grind down for the purpose.