.........and it's not white.............Dan wrote:Your spoke card somehow ended up attached to the crank arm, too
Actually, I used the BB cups box as a crank arm protector when leaning the bike inside my study...........
Postby open roader » Mon Sep 02, 2013 10:50 pm
.........and it's not white.............Dan wrote:Your spoke card somehow ended up attached to the crank arm, too
Postby ironhanglider » Mon Sep 02, 2013 11:05 pm
Postby munga » Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:58 am
Postby open roader » Tue Sep 03, 2013 7:36 am
Wheels are coming. My mechanic has had a leaking roof to deal with in the past fortnight - every spare moment up on his roof re-pointing tiles. He is building me the wheels as a favour / mates rates / partial barter so I'm not pushing............munga wrote:needs wheels.
Postby Velo13 » Thu Sep 05, 2013 2:42 pm
Postby fitz » Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:27 am
Postby open roader » Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:31 pm
Postby Madrider » Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:03 pm
Postby Zynster » Sun Oct 20, 2013 10:15 pm
Postby grantw » Mon Oct 21, 2013 10:34 am
Postby Jean » Mon Oct 21, 2013 1:01 pm
Postby Mulger bill » Mon Oct 21, 2013 7:03 pm
Postby singlespeedscott » Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:01 pm
Postby Lots of steel bikes » Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:10 pm
Postby ft_critical » Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:36 pm
Postby open roader » Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:56 pm
I agree, the original bars I selected had a more classic appearance and suited the bike better, however, with over half a dozen fractures and cracks from past lives, my hands simply were not up to anything other than a straight grip section on the drops like my other bikes. i also had to lower the shifters twice on the new bars as I simply felt too upright and NQR when riding on the hoods. Having them lowered now combined with some seriously chunky sections of gel padding under the tape makes a perfect nest for my hands to sit.singlespeedscott wrote:Not a huge fan of the saddle or the bars but everyone has different needs when it comes to comfort.
The rear tyre is a tad lumpier in it's profile than the front with a 1.5mm hump to one side of the valve area - still allows a good 2.5mm of clearance between tyre hump and seatpost......... that said I reckon a 27mm tyre would be likely to rub........singlespeedscott wrote:You wouldn't fit a Tally-Ho paper in between the rear tyre and the seat tube.
Postby Causidicus » Tue Oct 22, 2013 4:18 pm
Top locknut looks cross threaded and upper race not fully screwed down. Fixing that sooner rather than later would be wise.open roader wrote:
Postby open roader » Tue Oct 22, 2013 5:38 pm
The lock nut will come down nice and flush when I get a new blade for the hacksaw and take off the extra 2.5 threads off the fork steerer after having the bottom bearing race not properly tapped in when i measured the fork for cut off, once seated properly I gained a little extra fork protrudence through the top. It's the light/shadow in the image making it look cross threaded. The top bearing race is squeezed down good and proper, any tighter and it locks the steering, bottom race also tapped down flush, no more room to move there.......Causidicus wrote:Top locknut looks cross threaded and upper race not fully screwed down. Fixing that sooner rather than later would be wise.
Postby Mulger bill » Tue Oct 22, 2013 6:31 pm
They do now...Mulger bill wrote:Pics no work
Postby open roader » Tue Oct 22, 2013 6:46 pm
Thanks Shaun,Mulger bill wrote:They do now...Mulger bill wrote:Pics no work
*shivers*
An Italian that's as beautiful as the GLW. Likes hugely.
Fabulous work OR. +10000 style points.
Shaun
Postby jaseyjase » Tue Oct 22, 2013 6:55 pm
Postby munga » Tue Oct 22, 2013 7:56 pm
Postby open roader » Tue Oct 22, 2013 8:37 pm
Postby Discodan » Wed Oct 23, 2013 8:52 am
Postby sumgy » Thu Oct 24, 2013 9:42 am
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