Road tyre's - What's your rubber of choice?

[thearthurdog]

All good. New DA 9000 C50s have a 10 bar max, conveniently the same as the Corsa's. A very, very good point though.

Have you considered Vittoria Open Pave CG? They are also rated to 145 psi. They ride beautifully and will wear a little better than the Corsas. Same manufacturer (Vittoria) so both very good tyres. I would train on the Pave CGs but can't justify spending that kind of money on training tyres (having said that, I have ordered a pair !).

[singlespeedscott]

I use 25mm Veloflex masters great tyre although the sizing is typically Italian. They actually measure 23mm.

For such a light tyre they have been surprisingly puncture resistant.

[KL.]

I use 25mm Veloflex masters great tyre although the sizing is typically Italian. They actually measure 23mm.
For such a light tyre they have been surprisingly puncture resistant.

Hi singlespeedscott, how do you find the veloflex masters on wet roads, especially wet road descents ... thanks KL

[singlespeedscott]

I haven't used them on super wet descents, I don't ride big hills in the wet, but they seem fine on damp mtn roads when I've been caught out by the weather. I run them pretty soft though. 70psi in the front and 90 in the back.

[cubepeloton]

posting to be subscribed to this topic.

[RonK]

I train on Vittoria Rubino Pros and race on Vittoria CX tubulars and Vittoria Open CX clinchers. I just punctured a Rubino (front) a week ago and that was my first flat in pretty close to 25,000 km.

+1

Rubino Pro as a training and road tyre. And Open CX for fast.

[Carrots]

All good. New DA 9000 C50s have a 10 bar max, conveniently the same as the Corsa's. A very, very good point though.

Have you considered Vittoria Open Pave CG? They are also rated to 145 psi. They ride beautifully and will wear a little better than the Corsas. Same manufacturer (Vittoria) so both very good tyres. I would train on the Pave CGs but can't justify spending that kind of money on training tyres (having said that, I have ordered a pair !).

Thanks! Might check them out next time I'm due for a new pair.

[richbee]

Have gone tubeless with Hutchinson Fusions, two months so far, 2000km with no discernable wear and no punctures (touches wood). Felt no fear of taking the 90 degree left hander at the bottom of Dornoch Terrace at 45km/h on a recent damp morning.

[craigg]

I train and race on 700 x 23 Vittoria Rubino Pro Slick @100psi (68kg) - they're not the lightest tyre but can take substantial punishment. I consistently have some pretty impressive slashes in them and they just keep going and going. Typically get 9 months before replacing. On the commuter Continental GP 4 Seasons in 700 x 25. They tend to last about 12 months or so and are replaced when they wear down to the belt.

The roads here in Perth are mostly pretty !! BAN ME NOW FOR SWEARING !!, coarse gravel type stuff with heaps of glass and other debris. I've tried some Corsa EVO CX in the past but punctured 3 times in one race The Corsa are pretty sexy but just too thin for the types of events I race

[cplus]

Gator skins are by far the best for puncture resistance, but the different in cornering grip between them and 4000's is night and day.

4000's are the best balance of grip, wear and puncture I've found. Many many other agree

Rubino pro slicks are possibly stickier (in the dry anyway) but don't last as long.

Got an attack/force combo to go on next, will see what the fuss is about.

[r11ss]

Two of my friends tried gatorskins this winter and both have the road rash to prove it. They seem to let go in the wet with no warning.

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[cplus]

yep - i had one particularly bad experience (as have mates) and won't go back. I was crossed up sideways on a corner moto-gp style and near shat myself.

another friend runs the tubular version of them and loves them though - go figure.

[anttismo]

I tried a few different things on my road bike and kind of settled on vittoria rubino pros for a while. But then I was getting a few rear punctures toward the end of tyre life. I have now been using schwalbe durano plus on the rear. Combo seems OK to me - rubino on the front, durano plus on the rear. Mileage is about 10000km fr / 3000km r respectively. I'm 100kg, they are 23s, run about 100~110 psi. Last 10000km, no front punctures, 1 rear, mostly roads around melbourne, beach rd, mt dandy, etc, not racing.

[GeoffInBrisbane]

Just checked my kms- I now have 6400km on my 23mm GP4000S'. Rear getting low but not totally knackered. Still have only had that one puncture in the first week, none since. Pleased with that, considering the grip they give. Will get a new one soonish and put the old front on the back.

[queequeg]

Finally logged all my outstanding rides off the GPS.
My front tyre has now 20,000km on it (marathon plus), and my rear has done 8,000km and is now cactus because the inside casing has split and causes punctures due to the tube getting abrasions from the cut. If not for the casing it would be good for another 2,000km.

I have two Marathon Supremes to test out as replacements. They are 1/3 the weight of the Marathon Plus, so we'll see if they hold up in terms of puncture protection. If not, it is back to the SMPs!

[anttismo]

I mentioned a few posts ago what I had on my road bike, but for general cyclepath/commuting duties I have schwalbe marathon plus 38s on a flat bar hybrid thing. I preach to all and sundry about these tyres in terms of mileage and being (almost) flatproof. std for me is 15000kms rear, 30000km front, although both those numbers can be extended if you run them right down to the blue layer. And basically immune to glass, stones, and road debris, but still can be punctured by wire/nails over 10mm long. The best bike product on the market IMO, and the one thing in life that delivers what they promise - durability and puncture resistance

[rodneycc]

I got advised at my lbs that the marathon plus where a little harsh compared to the regular marathons. Any thoughts on this ( on 35 or 38s).

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[foo on patrol]

Here is some advice for you youngins! Buy your tyres and stick them aside in a dark place for 1-2yrs and you will have a far better wearing and faster tyre.

Foo

[Nobody]

Here is some advice for you youngins! Buy your tyres and stick them aside in a dark place for 1-2yrs and you will have a far better wearing and faster tyre.

But not better gripping tyres. Probably a good idea to only use them on the rear.

[foo on patrol]

Don't count on that Nobody, I never had any problem with them and grip!

Foo

[skull]

yep - i had one particularly bad experience (as have mates) and won't go back. I was crossed up sideways on a corner moto-gp style and near shat myself.

another friend runs the tubular version of them and loves them though - go figure.

I have them on my training wheels. Love them.

I do not however ride in the rain. Unless I am on a mtb.

[warthog1]

Here is some advice for you youngins! Buy your tyres and stick them aside in a dark place for 1-2yrs and you will have a far better wearing and faster tyre.

But not better gripping tyres. Probably a good idea to only use them on the rear.

I am really noticing this on my 4WD patrol at the moment. I have some Mickey Thompson all terrain tyres that I bought in 2009. They are now about half worn with plenty of tread.
My God the sideways action on the wet tarmac if you are not careful
This old diesel is no powerhouse but will step out exiting a roundabout or the like when the road is wet, tight lsd probably doesn't help. Not a feature of the tyres when they were new. They have gone off and are now quite hard.
Easy to control, but I dont have my wife drive it in the wet, she doesn't like it anyway thinks its too truck like.

[Nobody]

I am really noticing this on my 4WD patrol at the moment. I have some Mickey Thompson all terrain tyres that I bought in 2009. They are now about half worn with plenty of tread.
My God the sideways action on the wet tarmac if you are not careful
This old diesel is no powerhouse but will step out exiting a roundabout or the like when the road is wet, tight lsd probably doesn't help. Not a feature of the tyres when they were new. They have gone off and are now quite hard.
Easy to control, but I dont have my wife drive it in the wet, she doesn't like it anyway thinks its too truck like.

Yes, my Celica has gone the same way in the wet. When I first got the sports tyres I was impressed with their grip, but now they are getting closer to 4 years old they are not much better than ordinary tyres. I dropped the fronts 4 psi to try to prevent the wheels spinning so much in the wet.

[foo on patrol]

There is no comparison between car and treadly tyres. Unless the process and compounds have change in the last 30yrs. The strips I sat aside were Clement 3s which were silk walled and slicks and I never had a problem on the track if there was a little damp spot, not saturated though.

Maybe things are different now, I don't know but if you buy a tyre that is crap in the wet to start with, then it still isn't going to get any better!

Foo

[Leeroy]

Just checked my kms- I now have 6400km on my 23mm GP4000S'. Rear getting low but not totally knackered. Still have only had that one puncture in the first week, none since. Pleased with that, considering the grip they give. Will get a new one soonish and put the old front on the back.

Echo the comments above about GP4000s and Gatorskins. I reckon the Gatorskins should carry a mandatory health warning concerning their lack of adhesion in the wet . The 4 Seasons are good but they are only good for about 12 months of commuting before the tread starts showing through. The GP4000s are just fantstic all rounders - I even use mine on the home trainer trainer and they are remarkably resilient. Have ben tempted to try other brands but simply can't justify taking the risk.