Vintage, yesteryear and retro biking
Pics above will be down til the 18th. 10gb bandwidth from Photobucket was used up.
Anyway, a proper 8 speed cassette arrived, and I finished off the build!
Centurion Carbon-R by Quang.Vuong, on Flickr
IMG_5429 by Quang.Vuong, on Flickr
IMG_5432 by Quang.Vuong, on Flickr
I really like this carbon weave. Its smaller than 3k weave which the Cadex has, and looks quite good.
IMG_5439 by Quang.Vuong, on Flickr
IMG_5441 by Quang.Vuong, on Flickr
IMG_5442 by Quang.Vuong, on Flickr
Frame and Fork + Headset - $150 - 2095g
VP Bottom Bracket - $15 - 268g
Fulcrum 5 Wheelset with 11-28t cassette - $70 - 4150g
Rubinos - $30 - Weight included above.
Shimano 600 Groupset - $85
Shimano 600 Cranks - 804g
Shimano 600 Aero Pedals - 417g
Shimano 600 FD - 121g
Shimano 600 RD - 226g
Shimano 600 Brakes - 392g
Shimano 600 STIs - 481g
KMC X8 Gold Chain - $20 - 319g
3ttt 25.0mm Seatpost - $15 - 232g
Rolls Saddle - $20 - 367g
Sakae Stem - $15 - 330g
Sakae Bars - $0 - 350g
Chinese Bar Tape and Carbon plugs - $5 - ??g
Cables + Housing - $15 - ??g
Final Weight (weighed as a complete bike) - 9.7kg
Final Cost - $440
Didnt plan on making this a budget build or lightweight build, and it still turned out to be one. Test ride later today, with its first big ride being the next retro ride.
Looking just great, mate.
BTW, I know your funds are probably limited, but if you value your uploaded pics, take a look at smugmug for $40/year~$5/month.. Unlimited photos, amongst other benefits. No down-rezing during upload; your file size will remain untampered with. No ads./tacky visual pollution.
They are about to re-vamp their whole site on July 31. It's already a really good photo-storage vehicle. Just a thought. I just love to hate photobucket, is all, having been a past user.
I've posted this before, but here's the contrast with photobucket. Pegasus
Mouse over each large pic for enlargement options.
Well, no, it's not a pushbike, otherwise I'd be pushing it...
Ricardo Elite, '87 Keith Davis/Pegasus, '92 Team Miyata Ti.
it went ok - even got it out around the Dunc Gray crit track
I owned one of these in the very early 90s. I remember it riding beautifully - amazing compliance. She therefore descended like a demon (if one was OK with a little predictable wander from the front end), but was a little soggy in the BB going uphill. That said, mine was a 58cm and I was 82kgs at the time ...
My first foray into wheel building. I was warrantied a pair of Aerohead rims, but silly me, thought that 18h hubs were easy to come by. So I needed up with a pair of 18h rims, but I'm still going ahead with the build. With the help of our very own Velo13, of XLR8 Performance Wheels, I started on the front. It's a 36h 6400 hub laced radially to the the 18h Aerohead with DT double butted spokes. Went well enough, being laterally true, but slightly off radial trueness. Will need to borrow your tensionometer Bruce, and see if I can get the slight flat spot out.
The rear wheel will be interesting to build up. It'll be a triplet lacing(6 NDS in 1x, and 12 DS in 2x), with DT plain gauge spokes. Once they are done, this will have a full 600 group.
Nah, I only bring out the drill if I need holes in my top tube. Ill prob drill it inaccurately and wreck the rims. 18h looks cool though.
I begun lacing up the rear, and I wanna double check if Ive got it all correct before continuing on. This is the DS, with the valve hole oriented up. The leading spoke(left of the valve hole as viewed in the pic) goes over the trailing spoke for the first cross, and goes under the next trailing spoke for the second cross. Is this correct?
This is the NDS. The trailing spokes go under the leading spokes and they do not overlap. Is this correct?
And are the holes I chose to lace the spokes the correct ones? I reckon the holes I chose are correct, as it looks symmetrical on both sides.
I pretty much just had a look at all my wheel and pretty much followed them. If all is well, Ill continue on getting the spokes up to tension, true, then destress, etc. How will I be tensioning up the rear as well(in terms of process)? Theres one spot in the front that is a high spot(where the rim seam is). When I get all the spokes with equal tension, then would that high spot be gone? Or is it normal due to being the rim joint?
Looks fine to me. On the driveside the thinking is that the "pulling spokes" overlap on their last cross. This is so that when they tension, they will will ensure that the spokes are pulled inwards and kept out of the way of the derailleur when you are in the lowest gear.
It is up to you whether you choose to "lace" the spokes under/over each other. It is not technically required for a stable wheel.
Sometimes it is just impractical. If you want to lace the spokes, you may need to do so by running all the spokes "heads in". I can't really advise on this, as it is really hard to tell without the wheel being in my hands.
Yes, I think so, but can't really see. Tension her up and see. How much have you threaded the nipples onto the spokes?
Long story. Get it round and straight first, and then use the tensiometer to change the tensions of pairs of spokes to get to the target tension range.
Nope, highly likely it will still be there. Rim joins usually result in a flat spot or bump. If it is +/- 0.5mm, just ignore it and get the tension right. Tyres have a greater variability than +/- 0.5mm anyway, and by their pneumatic suspending nature they will mask minor bumps and flatspots.
Now you know why wheelbuilders earn the big bucks (well, the same as poets these days).
First wheel build completed! Chose to lace the NDS heads in as it had a more straight line to the spoke holes. The first ride was worrying with teh pinging noises as they unstressed themselves. But Ill see how they hold up over time. Big thanks to Velo13 for his advice and for the spokes, and to find_bruce for lending his tensiometer.
And on the Centurion
The emptiness of the rear hub on the NDS is crazy.
Looks great. How do they ride?
Hubs are lovely, and on this 3.4km ride I hit 56.2km/h so I think they will hold up just fine. How much further do you suggest I go before retensioning them? I tensioned them to just above 100kgf, and max was about 110kgf, but its a bit off true now.
Just use your tensiometer to determine which spokes have loosened, and resulted in the wheel coming out of true (remember spokes don't tighten themselves, so you can assume that it is loosening/nipples unwinding). Tighten/true up to your target 100kgf-110kgf. Ride and always watch them.
With the very low spoke count, I would expect that you'll be giving them a little bit of love now and again.
Beautiful build! Also I know this is a decision based on personal position preference and not just getting the bike to look that much better, but I'm loving the angle you've got the bars + brifters at, with the faceplates facing straight forward. Great angles.
Hi Quang, how do you like the ride of this bike? Esp compared to the cadex you have. I'll be riding the one I have to work tomorrow for a little more trial. After my 2 min test ride I've so far found it pretty flexy.
bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder of delusions indicating impaired contact with a reality of no bicycles.
It has been over a year since I last rode this bike. It's been sitting as a frame and fork ready to be rebuilt to almost 100% original spec with almost NOS parts.
I can tell you a lot about the Cadex though. There isn't an extremely big difference between the Cadex and a steel frame, other than it being a little bit lighter. I don't feel much difference in terms of stiffness.
I'll get my Centurion up and running very soon, by the end of the year, and ride it. Then I'll get back to you on how it fares.
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