Australian 50's headsets

[Retro man]

What are the headsets called on the Healing, the ones where the races are a part of the frame, Continental? the races on mine look fair no detentes or dimpling but they are definitely not like they have been precision machined or anything, and it looks like there is a hairline crack on the top race cup. (dob of braze under it?) should I not worry about it, or is there a way of restoring the surface. Just want to know before I get the frame refinished.

[WyvernRH]

What are the headsets called on the Healing, the ones where the races are a part of the frame, Continental? the races on mine look fair no detentes or dimpling but they are definitely not like they have been precision machined or anything, and it looks like there is a hairline crack on the top race cup. (dob of braze under it?) should I not worry about it, or is there a way of restoring the surface. Just want to know before I get the frame refinished.

I think you mean something like this?

The bulges in the top and bottom headlugs hold separate machined races for the ball bearings which fit loosely in the lugs, ball bearings should NOT run against the frame metal! This type of headset is commonly known as the 'British' pattern as opposed the the later and more common these days 'Continental' pattern as shown below which hane the races pressed into squared off head lugs.


There was a thread some time ago discussing the timeline of the various headset types.

Cheers
Richard

[Retro man]

Thats the one
Yes you are right! I went and had a look at my containers that I have stored the parts in and the races just sit in the frame cups. I would say the crack is from over tightening the lock ring.
I have scoured Ebay but have never come across any of these, even second hand! Can you buy them new or are they just a NOS thing if you are lucky enough to find one.

[WyvernRH]

I'm a bit confused as to which bit is cracked, the race that fits in the frame or the race in the top cup which screws onto the fork stem?

Richard

[Retro man]

The frame has a flair at the top and bottom of the head tube. the the top and bottom inner race of the headset sits into these. then the outer race's slide onto the fork tube top and bottom. The top flair that accepts the top inner race on the frame has a very small 2mm hairline crack right above the center of the lug that connects the head tube to the top tube . I don't think it will get any worse, there is a lot of braze around it so I would assume it won't spread.
Like I said I have not seen any on the web for sale, are they that uncommon?

[ldrcycles]

I'm pretty sure I know what you mean and as far as i'm aware that gap is supposed to be there, at any rate both my Healing and Local Cycle Co bikes look like that. I would take a photo but there is no way i'm taking either headset apart, the mongrels are so fiddly!

[WyvernRH]

Ah, I think you are referring to the welded join at the back of the headlug? This is where the flat plate has been formed into the shape of the head lug and then welded up the join which is at the back of the lug. Like ldrycles says, this join often parts a little bit at the back of the bearing top flange. No drama there I feel, I often just tack it with a bit of braze if the frame is stripped of paint but that is possibly just being fussy. As most old bikes with the 'rounded' bearing cups seem to have a small gap there it may not even have been welded at that point originally as the metal is quite thin.
Cheers
Richard

[Retro man]

Yes thanks for the reply's guys.
I feel a lot better about it now. I will just just give it a dob of braze and file it.
I still have to get the drop outs on the front forks replaced I am in a bit of a quandary about it all, first I have to find someone with the skill to do it that's not going to cost what the bike is worth. and the second thing is what size drop outs will I use? I have some Huret wing nuts and these use the old 8mm sizing, the high flange Normandy hub in my wheel has a more larger quick release axle. most of the dropouts you find on ebay are for these. can you use the bigger dropouts with the smaller axle safely? or can I just swap out the modern axle and use a vintage axle? I dont want to junk the forks for another set because the top crown has lug work that matches the frame, I want to try and save them. My Healing is the same as the 52 on this post. It was painted the same colour pity it was painted over and the Reynolds decal was destroyed.
http://bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic ... 52+Healing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Retro man]

Sent an email to Joe Cosgrove as yet received no reply

[ldrcycles]

I sent an email to him about 2 years ago and still haven't heard back, if you can find a phone number for him I reckon that might be the better bet .

[Retro man]

Thanks
Looks like Emails are not his preferred line of communication then.

[spirito]

Thanks
Looks like Emails are not his preferred line of communication then.

Maybe he's just bored answering questions that are nothing but a waste of time for him and he has nothing to profit from? Just sayin' ..

[Retro man]

Well his website dose say structural repairs to steel frames and provides an Email address. I sent a description and a reasonable question about the said fork and asked if it was viable to repair. It makes better business sense to take 30 seconds to read an Email at the beginning or end of the day rather than me wasting his time with a phone call while he is working on a job. A Reynolds 531 framed Healing is not worthless Kmart gas pipe bike. If the fork was viable to save, I would have no hesitation to pay what he asked.
I just want to clarify that I am not someone who wastes peoples time wanting things for nothing or squabbling over price, if its repairable good if its not bin it. He is in the business of frame repair that's why I asked.
I do not know Joe and have not spoken to him, this is not a criticism of him or you, it is a response to your post so you can understand my position.
I just want the forks fixed.