Tick...Tick...Tick on the pedal/crank area

[dudleygb]

Hi guys,

Any ideas why a pedal/crank would suddenly develop a tick...tick...tick as I cycle, especially when I put them under load.

[mick243]

Bearings in pedals, bearing in the BB, cable from front shifter hitting crank/chain/chainring, noise transmitted from somewhere else....

[Duck!]

Possibly a tad loose. May also be the headset. About 95% of the "bottom bracket" noises I get asked to investigate at work are loose headsets.

[dudleygb]

will it potentially damage anything riding like this?

[mick243]

If it's something loose, or an incorrectly adjusted bearing, yes you can destroy the part, or chafe out a thread etc, if it's the end if the shifter cable tapping the crank, no.

[rkelsen]

My money's on pedal bearings.

[RonK]

BB, seatpost, saddle rails, stem clamps, headset, dropouts - yeah, dropouts.

Oh - then there's always your knees.

[kb]

I've had shoes too (SPDs at least)

[Wakatuki]

Had this before, it was my shoe lace catching on every stroke! True...

[ColinOldnCranky]

Do a search in this forum. This one comes up so often that we could justify a sticky post for it.

If square taper cranks then it could be loose cranks. If so it needs to be fixed immediately - no finishing the ride. However, if you have kept riding it then the damage will likely already be done and no amount of retightening will fix it for long and you will need new cranks.

I can't see splined cranks giving you this particular problem.

[dudleygb]

Turns out it was my seat post and pedal. Tightened both up, noise gone.
Only issue is, its the pedal that was re-threaded
And while its not showing any signs of wear, it looks like a new crank has got to happen.

Please give me some advice here.

1 - What other parts does one need when replacing a crank?

2 - I have this crank:
http://www.this link is broken/au/e ... prod108982" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just replace with the same one or is there a chance for some upgrade

[dudleygb]

mmm, i just checked the prices, this replacement crank is 104, anything better is 224...ouch

[ColinOldnCranky]

Turns out it was my seat post and pedal. Tightened both up, noise gone.
Only issue is, its the pedal that was re-threaded
And while its not showing any signs of wear, it looks like a new crank has got to happen.

Please give me some advice here.

1 - What other parts does one need when replacing a crank?

2 - I have this crank:
http://www.this link is broken/au/e ... prod108982" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Just replace with the same one or is there a chance for some upgrade

Do you know what a helical thread is? It could be a better option than a new crank and will have the benefit that they are harder than the alloy so less grief with stripping or crossing threads.

[dudleygb]

Yeah that's what I got done. I just think it needs a tighten or they did a crap job. Either way, another coil job will cost another 60 dollars elsewhere and a new crank is 100. I might as well just get a spare anyways, c r c prices are pretty good right now

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[onrbikes]

I think you're referring to a helicoil . This is where they put a new thread to replace the stripped one.

Go to a automotive rebuild place and you shouldn't have to pay more than $30.
It takes about 15 minutes and will last a lifetime.

[dudleygb]

anyone know of one in the brisbane area?

[Saturnstarzz]

Do a search in this forum. This one comes up so often that we could justify a sticky post for it.

If square taper cranks then it could be loose cranks. If so it needs to be fixed immediately - no finishing the ride. However, if you have kept riding it then the damage will likely already be done and no amount of retightening will fix it for long and you will need new cranks.

I can't see splined cranks giving you this particular problem.

+1 for a sticky same as Mavic Hub service.

[NewStew]

Could also be that all is needed is to remove the pedals, clean and grease the threads and re-install - surprising how often that works!

[onrbikes]

Could also be to remove the arm and clean thoroughly with fuel and emery paper, and reconnect.
Best technique is to tighten, then give it a rap with a wooden mallet, then tighten fully.

Also the seat stem may need removing and oiling/greasing

[Mulger bill]

Do a search in this forum. This one comes up so often that we could justify a sticky post for it.

If square taper cranks then it could be loose cranks. If so it needs to be fixed immediately - no finishing the ride. However, if you have kept riding it then the damage will likely already be done and no amount of retightening will fix it for long and you will need new cranks.

I can't see splined cranks giving you this particular problem.

+1 for a sticky same as Mavic Hub service.

Nominated and seconded, all those in favour?

Methinks the best idea might be to open the floor for any and all suggestions re diagnosing clicks then condense it down into a single post covering all angles with a dotpoint list of a suggested best order of checking.

Thoughts?

Shaun

[Saturnstarzz]

Do a search in this forum. This one comes up so often that we could justify a sticky post for it.

If square taper cranks then it could be loose cranks. If so it needs to be fixed immediately - no finishing the ride. However, if you have kept riding it then the damage will likely already be done and no amount of retightening will fix it for long and you will need new cranks.

I can't see splined cranks giving you this particular problem.

+1 for a sticky same as Mavic Hub service.

Nominated and seconded, all those in favour?

Methinks the best idea might be to open the floor for any and all suggestions re diagnosing clicks then condense it down into a single post covering all angles with a dotpoint list of a suggested best order of checking.

Thoughts?

Shaun

I'd be happy to write it Shaun, might blatantly copy stuff from Sheldon and Park. But i will be thorough.

[Mulger bill]

Cheers Saturn, throw it together and we'll let the hungry mob proofread it

Shaun

[dudleygb]

I think you're referring to a helicoil . This is where they put a new thread to replace the stripped one.

Go to a automotive rebuild place and you shouldn't have to pay more than $30.
It takes about 15 minutes and will last a lifetime.

MyBikeShop.com.au is nearby me so I took it to them to do. The helicoil looks like its worked but I see you get another actual re-thread job like this:

http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.com.au/ ... hread.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Anyone know a good auto shop in Brisbane area who will do that 'will last forever' fix?

[Stefan_A]

no one mentioned loose cleats... order of probability in my books for crank/pedal noises is - cleats bolts, worn/broken cleats, broken pedals, pedal to crank, pedal spindle, chainring bolts...then referred areas (saddle/seat post, headset, bidon bolts, front der braze on, stem, bars)

[ColinOldnCranky]

... order of probability in my books for crank/pedal noises is - cleats bolts, worn/broken cleats, broken pedals, pedal to crank, pedal spindle, chainring bolts...then referred areas (saddle/seat post, headset, bidon bolts, front der braze on, stem, bars)

Saturn - On the development of a sticky this suggests the possibility of including within it a list indicating a suggested order of tackling the causes that are described.

How that order is established is open to argument of course - it could be based on probabilities, on the likelihood of further damage if not addressed immediatley, on the cost of further damage if not addressed immediatley, on the ease with which simple ones can be determined and dismissed, etc.

In the probabilities Stefan has already given something to start with.

Respectfully, for consideration.