Apollophiles - The Apollo Appreciation Thread

[jools]

Jools, are you talking about the red IV I almost bought off you...nice bike.
Ive learnt something about the early cassettes...

That's the one! It's still going strong, just want to make sure it keeps going strong!

What did you learn about the cassettes? Is there an easy fix?

[Paddles]

My old 1980 IV had an early generation Uniglide freehub on it. If the freehub is still ok then you can still buy 6 speed nos uniglide cassettes on ebay, just keep your eyes open for when they show up. If the freehub is shagged then like the cassettes, nos and second hand hubsets come up on ebay as well from time to time, just confirm the nut spacing is 126mm. The first generation Shimano cassette hubs weren't as strong as the later generation uniglide and hyperglide hubs, the thingo that held the freehub slid into the hub body and the hole would flog out and become sloppy and there's no fix, you just have to replace the hub.

[Dow Jones Index]

Are you still running the same cassette or have you upgraded?

Different wheelset (700c) to allow for fenders. The original set is still going strong though, of course the bike had been in a shed unused for 20 years when I bought it.

[jools]

My old 1980 IV had an early generation Uniglide freehub on it. If the freehub is still ok then you can still buy 6 speed nos uniglide cassettes on ebay, just keep your eyes open for when they show up. If the freehub is shagged then like the cassettes, nos and second hand hubsets come up on ebay as well from time to time, just confirm the nut spacing is 126mm. The first generation Shimano cassette hubs weren't as strong as the later generation uniglide and hyperglide hubs, the thingo that held the freehub slid into the hub body and the hole would flog out and become sloppy and there's no fix, you just have to replace the hub.

There seems to be a small amount of lateral play between the cassette and the wheel, but I haven't pulled the cassette off as yet to investigate. I've only got one chain whip and these apparently need two to remove safely. It's also my one and only roadworthy bike at the moment so I'm loathe to go playing with this one in case I render it unrideable. I've got a Superlite that just needs a new rear axle to get mobile again but I've been ignoring it a bit since switching to the apollo for the commute. It might be time to get that sorted.

[jools]

Different wheelset (700c) to allow for fenders. The original set is still going strong though, of course the bike had been in a shed unused for 20 years when I bought it.

I managed to get some fenders fitted with the 27" wheels, but it was a bit of a hassle. Converting to 700c is also an option I've considered - did you stick with narrow tyres or go a bit wider?

[Dow Jones Index]

Man I tried with the og wheelset but I couldn't avoid fender rub, n the 700's I can run 28mm tyres easily (could probs go to 30). I'd strongly recommend it.

[munga]

did you need long-reach brakes, or were the originals able to be adjusted to compensate?

[Dow Jones Index]

Nope, The original calipers (600 Arabesque) reach no worries

[jools]

I had some 700c wheels on it for a short while - no problems with brake reach. Sold the bike the 700c's were meant to be on, so the 27's went back on the Apollo. I actually think I had more room for fenders on the apollo than the superlite, particularly under the rear brake bridge. The 27 x 1 1/4 tyres were a bit of a squeeze but the current 27 x 1 1/8 are a good fit:

[The Fixer]

Gee, this dating of older machines can be fun.

Tried to get an approximate age of my recently-acquired III, the RD dates as 1988, and the front as 1984.

Both seem a bit too recent, and to widely-spread to be an indication.

But I managed to date the Super-maxy crank-set to 1980, which sounds far more realistic.


BTW, has anyone else noticed that the site, http://www.vintage-trek.com/component_dates.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; can no longer be accessed?

Glad now I printed a copy.

[singlespeedscott]

BTW, has anyone else noticed that the site, http://www.vintage-trek.com/component_dates.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; can no longer be accessed?.

I did. I hope it's not permanent.

[Paddles]

Hey Fixer, the frame number under the bottom bracket should show the year of the frame.

[ldrcycles]

BTW, has anyone else noticed that the site, http://www.vintage-trek.com/component_dates.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; can no longer be accessed?.

I did. I hope it's not permanent.

+1, that's been extremely useful over the years. I've just about managed to remember the shimano codes now though, as I've realised the code for my birth year is my first initial .

[The Fixer]

Hey Fixer, the frame number under the bottom bracket should show the year of the frame.

Number is AKF 19349A

[munga]

stop panicking. it's back up.

[The Fixer]

Well, the III is back in rideable condition again.

Got rid of the MTB bars and controls, the plastic ( ??)pedals and the sprung seat-post. She now sports Nitto
bars, Shimano friction shifters on the down-tube, and 'Star' brand brake levers (the Weinemanns I'd planned
to use have perished hoods ). Not sure what brand the stem or seat-post are, they're alloy, but nothing
special. Pedals are common 'rat-tooth' type. She's also had a small cheapo digital speedo fitted (as have all
my bikes).

Wheels are Araya, hubs are Suntour, brakes are Dia-Compe side-pull, though I do have a set of period center-
pull brakes which I may try at some stage. Crankset is Sugino 'Super-Maxy'.

Until I get the chance to go shopping for handlebar tape, I've cheated somewhat and used a pair of life-
expired 27" tubes, which are surprisingly comfortable and grippy.

She has also suffered from a good scrub & degrease, and the vigorous application of polish.

I took her for her first ride (approx. 3 km) this evening once it had cooled off a bit, and she rides and stops
very well indeed. The frame is nice, and has the right amount of flex in the right places. It's not a super-light
frame, but nor is it 'gas-pipe' level or weight either (Tange Hi-Ten), and is extremely comfortable to ride.

Plans for the future include going from a 5-speed to a six-speed rear cluster, repairing the worst of the paint
damage, replacing the steel pedals with alloy ones and fitting a small LED lighting kit.

All in all, I'm extremely happy with my $20 Apollo III. What do others think?

BEFORE: As purchased.




AFTER: And now, ready to ride anywhere.

[singlespeedscott]

It cleaned up very nicely. The hoods for the Dia Compe levers are easily found on ebay for around $18 dollars delivered.

[grantw]

There's a large VI frame for sale in Sydney at the moment

[singlespeedscott]

There's a large VI frame for sale in Sydney at the moment

Very nice. And my size too. To bad it's in Sydney.

[rogerrabbit]

It is best you don't bid anyway... That way it will be cheaper for me

[singlespeedscott]

It is best you don't bid anyway... That way it will be cheaper for me

[Paddles]

I've not seen that style of frame number on an 80's Apollo, the year number was one of the first pairs of numbers in the system I was familiar with. Do a google search on Apollo frame numbers and there's been a couple of old threads on here.

[The Fixer]

ARRRRGH!!!!

I posted a reply this morning, Paddles, got home and logged-on and it was gone. Post mustn't have 'taken'.

Anyway, in short, I recall reading somewhere that there was more than one manufacturer who made frames
for Apollos. This could be why the number is in a different place.

It has Suntour forged dropouts, if that's any guide.

I haven't found much on Google as yet, and will hunt-up those threads you mentioned... thanks.

As an aside, a mate picked up an Apollo II today, which has Kurahawa dropouts (so presume a Kurahawa frame)
but the number is under the BB. However, it bears little resemblance to any of mine. Its seat-stays are tapered
at both ends, and are not 'bevelled' at the top. It's also VERY tall, I'm 6' and it's a full stretch to reach the pedals
never mind the ground, whereas the III fits me nicely. See pic.

[Kermit TF]

Scored this for $40 from gumtree..AP IV .moderate amount of surface rust, 600- arabesque 1982 model....

[The Fixer]

Not bad, Kermit...