I'm a champion bike mechanic...

westab
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby westab » Fri Nov 08, 2013 3:02 pm

becuase last night when i was lacing up the front wheel (new rim as the 20y.o. original ones fatigue cracked) the first nine spokes placed in the hub and then the first three had the spoke nipples placed on backwards. I have no idea how I did that :oops: and I only noticed when the last nipple of the nine didn't seem to sit properly; man I am a dork brain sometimes :roll: :oops:
Not fast, no style, but still get there.

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Xplora
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby Xplora » Fri Nov 08, 2013 3:24 pm

I'm going the Full Retard, Tropic Thunder style. Quarq has advised that you can file down the proud edges on the earlier Quarqs to use the Rotor Aero Q-rings. Biggest issue was that you can't use a 52 at all without the modification. Just needs a proper calibration bwahahahahhahahahahahahahaha so here I go ;)

Le Mong
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby Le Mong » Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:20 pm

Xplora wrote:I'm going the Full Retard, Tropic Thunder style. Quarq has advised that you can file down the proud edges on the earlier Quarqs to use the Rotor Aero Q-rings. Biggest issue was that you can't use a 52 at all without the modification. Just needs a proper calibration bwahahahahhahahahahahahahaha so here I go ;)
File the quarq or the rings?

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Xplora
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby Xplora » Sat Nov 09, 2013 12:23 am

8) File the quarq 8)

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winstonw
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby winstonw » Sat Nov 09, 2013 6:05 am

makes me wonder if the superglue repair works.

simmo71
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby simmo71 » Sat Nov 09, 2013 1:23 pm

winstonw wrote:makes me wonder if the superglue repair works.
No, only on TV like McGuyver. It just won't allow any stretch in the tube and just cracks off!

My GF wish it did so she didn't have to be the but of all jokes;)

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biker jk
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby biker jk » Thu Feb 20, 2014 4:16 pm

Serviced my Shimano hubs without dropping any of the ball bearings. The pen with a magnetic head I purchased sure works a treat to get all the ball bearings out in one go. As did inserting the axle while dropping the ball bearings into the cup so they can't fall through.

YearoftheCat
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby YearoftheCat » Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:54 pm

It took me four goes to get my new front wheel laced up. 36H, 3 cross so nothing fancy but yeah, four goes. I have a 40H cross 4 to do next which I'll get first go!

Spokes with heads out both sides first then spokes with heads in!

Scot

jasonc
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby jasonc » Fri Feb 21, 2014 9:05 am

biker jk wrote:Serviced my Shimano hubs without dropping any of the ball bearings. The pen with a magnetic head I purchased sure works a treat to get all the ball bearings out in one go. As did inserting the axle while dropping the ball bearings into the cup so they can't fall through.
fluke I tells you.

ironhanglider
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby ironhanglider » Sat Feb 22, 2014 12:15 pm

YearoftheCat wrote:It took me four goes to get my new front wheel laced up. 36H, 3 cross so nothing fancy but yeah, four goes. I have a 40H cross 4 to do next which I'll get first go!

Spokes with heads out both sides first then spokes with heads in!

Scot

Tandem wheel? I considered 4 cross, but eventually went with 3 for large flange hubs. 4 cross can overlap (or nearly overlap) which can make spoke replacement awkward if you ever have to.

As for multiple goes at lacing that happens, particularly if you are trying to get the hub logo aligned with the valve hole. Best to do that alignment with two spokes in the beginning.

Cheers,

Cameron

YearoftheCat
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby YearoftheCat » Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:54 pm

Yeah, tandem wheels. No logo on the front hub barrel so I can't use that as an excuse, just general ineptitude! It was the first one I'd done in a while and I just didn't have the right sequence. One of the pull downs was because the valve hole wasn't between near parallel spokes.

The rear is a 40h Sturmey AW3, and was laced up cross 4 so I just did the same. I could probably have gone with 3. I needed washers under the spoke heads which makes it pretty tight for overlap at the flange but they do just make it. I almost got it laced up first go.

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ldrcycles
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby ldrcycles » Mon Feb 24, 2014 9:18 am

Black painted Ashtabula cranks on a sheet of black plastic in a dark garage, plus no shoes....

Yea that hurt.
"I must be rather keen on cycling"- Sir Hubert Opperman.

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justalf
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby justalf » Mon Feb 24, 2014 12:05 pm

Very basic tip that took me too long to discover, which helps prevent cross threading.
When installing a bolt, first rotate it backwards until it clicks. This positions it properly in the threads. Then wind forwards to install as normal. And use a little grease on the threads.
Yep, I have some bike.

jackthelad
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby jackthelad » Tue Feb 25, 2014 12:26 am

i just pulled my chris king cassette body off for a quick relube of the ring drive
the thought of the job was harder than the actual job
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yugyug
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby yugyug » Tue Feb 25, 2014 10:14 pm

Struggling to get a mismatched pedal of the right crank of an old mountain bike ebay purchase, then spontaneously deciding to try undoing it the right way (i.e the wrong way), finding out that it was a fully cross-threaded left pedal and having the shocking realisation that I was no longer the worst mechanic in the world....

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bychosis
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby bychosis » Fri Feb 28, 2014 9:00 pm

Decided it was time to give my commuter roadie some new boots. All good, easy process...normally. Tyre comes off, new folding tyre goes on but the label doesn't line up with valve hole (puncture location, not aesthetics) so I slide it around a bit. Grab the tube to push the valve in. Nope, wrong spot, try it again. There is no valve hole? What? Closer inspection showed the rim tape had moved when I moved the tyre. Spent the next 10-15 min trying to get the smooth, one piece, tight rim tape back in place. Then ran out of time before dinner to finish the back tyre.
bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder of delusions indicating impaired contact with a reality of no bicycles.

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Xplora
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby Xplora » Sat Mar 01, 2014 6:13 pm

Found this link http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shift ... ost7262977" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

How to measure a chain using vernier calipers.

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mark field
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby mark field » Sun Mar 02, 2014 12:37 am

justalf wrote:Very basic tip that took me too long to discover, which helps prevent cross threading.
When installing a bolt, first rotate it backwards until it clicks. This positions it properly in the threads. Then wind forwards to install as normal. And use a little grease on the threads.

hi, can you be my new best friend? ive been telling people this for years but i just get blank stares like im from another planet. This tip is especially important with screws that have been from something that is plastic, most plastic parts during the manufacturing process have small holes with no thread, so when the factory worker or robot type thing is putting the screws in place they use screws that have a small groove that runs along the length of the screw which intersects with the screws threads thus making it a "self tapping screw" so if you remove one of these "self tapping " screws then you risk stripping the thread that has been made in the plastic unless it is re-seated correctly by the above mentioned method. this way you know that the start of the screw thread has met the start of the part thread which means clockwise turning will enable the screw to follow the same path that it had originally cut. If one accidentally strips the thread from a part then it is advisable to use another self tapping screw that is of a larger diameter. if you can.

but im a champion bike mechanic because i was having issues with the paint nozzle on a pressure pac can so while i was looking at it i decided to press it see if it was clogged. So basically i just sprayed paint directly into both my eyes. i dropped to my knees screaming to my friend im blind help me ahhh. but he pretended to not hear me , anyway i managed to find my way into the bathroom and wash my face under the tap. Then i contemplated my stupidity, went back out side to resume painting AND DID EXACTLY THE SAME THING AGAIN. :shock:
steel is the real deal.

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Xplora
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby Xplora » Sun Mar 02, 2014 1:03 am

Well I've finished the preliminary install of the Rotor rings onto my Quarq, and the RD repositioned, live chain test tomorrow.
50Nm torque wrenches are crazy expensive :shock: I borrowed one from Dad, but I'm not sure I got the right result. Slight rubbing, wonder if I've overtorqued a couple Nm?

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justalf
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby justalf » Sun Mar 02, 2014 2:35 am

mark field wrote: AND DID EXACTLY THE SAME THING AGAIN. :shock:
Mr Field, the honour is all mine. I laughed at that because I know what it's like.
And the screwing backwards thing should be taught in schools or something.
Yep, I have some bike.

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bychosis
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby bychosis » Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:04 am

To continue with the theme for the weekend during the morning I resumed the install of the remaining tyre and noticed the bar tape box on my cluttered workbench. I purchased it ages ago and later in the day figured its time to install the new tape, the bikes got new shoes, why not new gloves too.

On returning to the garage couldn't find the box anywhere, spent fifteen minutes looking for the red box with the new bar tape. Everywhere, including places I was sure I hadn't looked that morning and I knew I had seen the box earlier. Eventually found the plain cardboard coloured box, turns out the red box was was the previous bar tape box, not the current stuff. The new stuff had been in plain sight the whole time, just the wrong colour.

I've gotta tidy up.
bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder of delusions indicating impaired contact with a reality of no bicycles.

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OnTrackZeD
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby OnTrackZeD » Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:14 am

mark field wrote:
but im a champion bike mechanic because i was having issues with the paint nozzle on a pressure pac can so while i was looking at it i decided to press it see if it was clogged. So basically i just sprayed paint directly into both my eyes. i dropped to my knees screaming to my friend im blind help me ahhh. but he pretended to not hear me , anyway i managed to find my way into the bathroom and wash my face under the tap. Then i contemplated my stupidity, went back out side to resume painting AND DID EXACTLY THE SAME THING AGAIN. :shock:

I hope you don't handle fire arm's because you just can't wash that mistake away.

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Xplora
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby Xplora » Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:52 pm

Installed rotor rings, successfully reinstalled crank and adjusted FD to suit. Word of the wise - the Q rings are REALLY finicky and I'll have to kiss big/big and small/small goodbye, I've been able to sneak it in the past but that's just the booze talking for these crazy rings. I better get some benefits from the change :lol: . I'll test under load tomorrow. 8)

Stepr
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby Stepr » Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:37 pm

mark field wrote

hi, can you be my new best friend? ive been telling people this for years but i just get blank stares like im from another planet. This tip is especially important with screws that have been from something that is plastic, most plastic parts during the manufacturing process have small holes with no thread, so when the factory worker or robot type thing is putting the screws in place they use screws that have a small groove that runs along the length of the screw which intersects with the screws threads thus making it a "self tapping screw" so if you remove one of these "self tapping " screws then you risk stripping the thread that has been made in the plastic unless it is re-seated correctly by the above mentioned method. this way you know that the start of the screw thread has met the start of the part thread which means clockwise turning will enable the screw to follow the same path that it had originally cut. If one accidentally strips the thread from a part then it is advisable to use another self tapping screw that is of a larger diameter. if you can.
Couldn't agree more - been doing this for years.

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Xplora
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...

Postby Xplora » Fri Jun 06, 2014 1:13 pm

Final step of my rebuild is done. I paid someone else to rebuild it (AWESOME job by Dan P at Trek Rouse Hill, it's literally as good as new) but I need to recalibrate my SRM for the new Rotor Q-rings. Got my kettlebells weighed at the post office. 12.430kgs+16.400kgs+266gms for the strapping that will tie the weights to the crank. http://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/powermet ... ation.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; is the site with all the required info. I'm keeping this info in the thread for future reference ;)

Will give this a go tonight once I have some spare hands. Had to admit I was surprised how much the weights were "off" the designated weight. They have a rubber coating, but obviously that's added weight. Something to keep in mind if I ever need to start measuring kilojoules.
TL:DR I am going to calibrate my SRM today :)

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