Can I fit a 1” threaded fork to a 11/8 unthreaded head tube

[bikehack]

Hi all

I am super keen to get rid of my sloppy suspension fork and stick in a rigid. My suspension setup is a 11/8 non threaded steerer. Now I have a 700c fork in my possession but it is a 1’ threaded. The steerer length is fine. Is it achievable to sleeve the 1’’ steerer and throw in a star nut so I can use the threaded fork an ultimately my existing stem and hangers. If so is there a kit available for such a task? If not do you want to sell me your old 700c 11/8 unthreaded rigid fork ?

Cheers Bikehack

[gclark8]

NO!

They use different bearing systems and different cup/cone diameters.
Just buy a cheap rigid 1 1/8 fork.

[Nate]

Just sold my fork on ebay for $35
got it 2nd hand from Phantom Cycles for $40

worth it...

[bikehack]

Hi Nate were they the Surly cross checks ???

[Nate]

nah, giant branded not sure of specs

[kukamunga]

Hi all

I am super keen to get rid of my sloppy suspension fork and stick in a rigid. My suspension setup is a 11/8 non threaded steerer. Now I have a 700c fork in my possession but it is a 1’ threaded. The steerer length is fine. Is it achievable to sleeve the 1’’ steerer and throw in a star nut so I can use the threaded fork an ultimately my existing stem and hangers. If so is there a kit available for such a task? If not do you want to sell me your old 700c 11/8 unthreaded rigid fork ?

Cheers Bikehack

Hi Bikehack.

What State/City/Town/Suburb do you reside in? (A note to all - it helps if you include your location in your profile).

If you are requiring a threadless 1 1/8" 700C fork, what is the minimum length steerer you require? I assume it'll also need brake bosses on it (for v/linear/canti-type brakes). If you are replacing a suspension fork, you may find a rigid fork may be a bit shorter which may affect your bikes handling.

Cheers

[bikehack]

Hi kukamunga thanks for the reply I have updated my profile with some extra info. My current setup is running 2 and half spacers so the steerer length is about 200 - 220mm. Yes I agree with the geometry issue you raise. I have read a bit on it and the majority of users that have done it suggest it is an not a major issue for their bikes performance / handling. I was looking at a 29” fork (surly karate monkey) that suggests it is suspension “compromised” . This being said the fork is for a wheel that is 8mm bigger than a 700c. Does this make a difference? And yes I do need brake bosses. It becomes expensive if you need to buy race brakes and the clamp on thingy to mount them

cheers

[kukamunga]

Check your 'axle to crown' height on your current suspension forks, and take maybe 10mm off this measurement (for sag). The 'Karate Monkey' is 468mm, and the 'Cross-Check' fork is 400mm for comparison. I may have a CrMo 700C fork (with canti-pivots) that may fall somewhere in between those 'axle-crown' measurements

'Axle to crown' measurement is from the centre of the axle to the bottom of the steerer/ top of fork crown (where the bottom face of the lower headset bearing race sits)

[kukamunga]

Just checked my only 1 1/8" 700C fork, and it only has a 150mm long threaded steerer . BTW, the axle-crown measurement is 410mm, and it's a 4130 CrMo fork off a Shogun. I'll keep my eyes peeled for later model, larger framed Shogun 'hybrids' on my hard waste runs in the next few weeks.

Has anyone tried using a threaded headset and stem on a longer threaded steerer? Would the combination of a clamp-on threadless stem onto a threaded section of steerer be a combination for potential disaster ie. shearing/ cracking of thread potential?

If a long enough threaded steerer could be found, the thread can always be cut off. I'll check in Abbotsford Cycles this Saturday. They have a box of second-hand forks - might be something there.....

[pegleg]

If there is enough thread length on the 1" fork steerer, use headset reducers, a threaded 1" headset, and a 1" to 1 1/8" quill adaptor. scvimports lists an 1 1/8" to 1" reducer on their website.