Hotta TT700

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QuangVuong
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Hotta TT700

Postby QuangVuong » Tue Jul 25, 2017 10:42 pm

I purchased this Hotta TT700 from a triathlete a few months ago. He used it in triathlons up until recently too.
ImageIMG_6531 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

The man behind the Hotta was Simon Aske. He is still around now working at Colin Lewis Cycles and is also a framebuilder. There's some good reading on him and the start of Hotta in the book Great British Cycling: The History of British Bike Racing By Ellis Bacon. And a bit of info here about Chris Field who was a part of Hotta too.

Although it is not mentioned in the book, Chris Boardman also rode on an Eddy Merckx painted Hotta in the 1998 Prologue. Starting at about 19:07.


Can anyone spot what groupset he has on it? I think it is a Mavic Zap groupset but with what I think are FC-7410 cranks there.
Image

It was also sold under the Dunlop brand. It came in both 700c and 650c versions.
Image

It was essentially a blind purchase. The parts hanging off it were not too special, so I was really only buying it for the frameset and Spinergy Rev X wheels. All I was told about the seat post was that it had not been moved in a longer time. If the aluminium seat post is stuck in there, then it will be a real issue for me. First thing to try was to undo the clamp bolt, but that was already partly rounded out. I could not unscrew it normally, so I went and drilled out the bolt head and knocked the clamp out. The white stuff is partly corrosion, but a lot of it is actually some sort of epoxy. When I asked the seller, he said that surfboard epoxy was used to stop the seat post from slipping.
ImageIMG_6540 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

The post was well and truly stuck in there. I tried freezing, heat, hammering it, twisting it, but it would not budge at all. Any more force, and I'd be worried about breaking the frame. So I cut the post and begun using a reamer to slower ream out the seatpost.
ImageIMG_6918 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

This took too much time, so I went to my favourite chemical, sodium hydroxide. At the time, I could not find any mentions of the effect sodium hydroxide would have on carbon fibre. There were plenty of mentions on various bike forums about people suggesting it, but I could not find anyone who actually did it. I was also not 100% sure if there was any aluminium inserts or sleeves in the frame, but going off the full carbon HT, I was hoping the ST was the same.
ImageIMG_6919 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

42 hours later...
ImageIMG_1912 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

Surely enough there was just a carbon tube measuring 27.2 mm left after 48 hours.
ImageIMG_6946 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

The surf shop epoxy did soak in the caustic soda and peeled off. However the carbon fibre itself seemed to be unaffected. It was only after I started, I found one mention here where fibre reinforced polymers is resistant to caustic soda. Around halfway down page 3.
ImageIMG_6948 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

Here is the frame and a Look fork that I decided to use. It is basically a 55cm square frame which weighs in at 1440g with a 515g fork.
ImageIMG_2074 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

Interestingly it has steel DT shifter bosses. The cables run internally in the frame with full guides from the entry port to the exit port.
ImageIMG_2080 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

ImageIMG_2096 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

The FD cable exit port is sticking out a couple centimetres in the picture as the guide is broken somewhere along the way. I left it sticking out so I can hopefully thread though the cable later on. The cable loops under the BB shell then up and out of the frame.
ImageIMG_2081 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

Aluminium dropouts which are clamped onto the carbon stays with two M4 screws. I will need to make a new pair of these as the NDS dropout is a bit too mangled. The RD cable exit port takes a standard step down ferrule.
ImageIMG_2086 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

Weird rear brake mount. Someone has stripped out the brake nut there, so they used a front brake which has a longer thread. I believe the brake is to be twisted into the threaded boss until it is tight. I am unsure how the brake would be centred though, unless spacers are used to get the positioning correct. I will either drill it out and use another M6 rivnut, or I will use a helicoil. There are some cracks forming along the stay here. I am currently unsure if they are cracks just in the paint, or carbon fibre itself. If anyone knows for certain how rear brakes are mounted on these frames, do enlighten me.
ImageIMG_2090 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

The carbon definitely did soak in a bit of the sodium hydroxide as a few weeks on, the dried sodium hydroxide started forming.
ImageIMG_2093 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

Carbon HT. It is to take 30.2 cups.
ImageIMG_2099 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr

Someone in the past has drilled/filed a couple holes in the English BB shell most likely to help thread the FD cable though the frame.
ImageIMG_2100 by Quang Vuong, on Flickr
VillaVelo, by the Vuong brothers

Blog: https://villaveloframes.wordpress.com/
FB & IG: @villaveloframes

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P!N20
Posts: 470
Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2010 6:50 pm

Re: Hotta TT700

Postby P!N20 » Wed Jul 26, 2017 2:30 pm

Quang's quest to find the world's ugliest bike continues :P

(Although whatever Jan is riding in that video up there would be a worthy contender.)

Trust the bullet hole stickers will be staying.

Aftermarket fork?

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MichaelB
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Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 9:29 am
Location: Adelaide, South Australia

Re: Hotta TT700

Postby MichaelB » Wed Jul 26, 2017 4:29 pm

I thought you were meant to be building frames, not buying monsters and restoring them !!!

8)

Stevep4
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Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2017 6:13 am

Re: Hotta TT700

Postby Stevep4 » Thu Sep 07, 2017 7:01 am

Hello, and congratulations on finding a Hotta !
For those who mock them, do note that if a Hotta or it's near cousin the Lotus were compared in a wind tunnel against a modern bike (like my Cervelo P5), they would be very competitive. Not bad for a 20+ yr old design !

I bought and rebuilt a Hotta TT650 during the summer. So some of the questions being asked by the OP I may have answers to.

Rear drop outs. Simon Aske does have some of these, so if you contact him he may send some to you for the cost of postage (or if he has run out, I have a spare pair)

Rear brake.
The alloy insert is actually just a 3cm length of aluminium (10mm diameter) It is secured in place by a small screw from underneath. Drop the rear wheel out and have a look. Getting the rear brake Aligned is a b'stard of a job and you will never manage it. I have bought a Cervelo P3 rear brake mount and will drill the frame and fit a threadsert to secure it.
I fitted Specialized Tri-spoke wheels and have fitted Ultegra 6800 groupset. The freehub is 10-speed, but I had a 11-speed cassette machined to suit. And it works a treat.
I swapped the original aeroforks for some alloy Kinesis. The originals are so razor thin there must be a risk of them snapping.
I have also used Nokon cables throughout, including a small section before the front mech to help guide the cable.

Over the winter, this will be fully stripped and repainted. I do not have the option of bare carbon like your bike, since mine would have been paint d directly onto the carbon, not over the top of a clear coat lacquer.

Overall. It is a bloody lovely bike !!

https://flic.kr/p/X8R5DG

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QuangVuong
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Location: Villawood, Sydney
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Re: Hotta TT700

Postby QuangVuong » Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:49 pm

The designs from the 90s is what I consider to be real development. Bike design was moving away from traditional diamond frames and moving to shapes that minimised mass and was aerodynamic. The Hotta, and the Lotus were two of the products that were created, amongst a few others. Too bad the UCI stepped in and banned them.

Good to hear that Simon may have some spare dropouts. If he doesn't, they are easy enough to reproduce.

And in regards to the rear brake insert, I think it has suffered the same epoxy treatment as the seatpost. I just tried prying it up, but it's not coming out. From what you're saying, is the insert supposed to be free to rotate to centre the brake, then locked in place by the grub screw?

The part where the small grub screw would sit has no threads in my frame. I'm assuming it's a M5x0.8 grub that should be there?
Image

Whenever you do pull your frame apart, I'd be interested in seeing the insert and its related components along with some sizes. It will be a good guide for me to see what is going on and for me to remake the parts of I cannot remove them from my frame without destroying it.

There's no signs of filler on my frame, so you may be pleasantly surprised that underneath your paint is a nice carbon weave like on mine. I'm looking forward to seeing yours redone. And hopefully mine turns out well too.

If you haven't already seen, I also do have a Lotus Sport 110 myself.
viewtopic.php?t=89744
VillaVelo, by the Vuong brothers

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zebee
Posts: 333
Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2013 8:37 am

Re: Hotta TT700

Postby zebee » Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:44 pm

QuangVuong wrote:The Hotta, and the Lotus were two of the products that were created, amongst a few others. Too bad the UCI stepped in and banned them.



First they came for the recumbents....

Zebee

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yugyug
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Re: Hotta TT700

Postby yugyug » Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:56 pm

QuangVuong wrote:Although it is not mentioned in the book, Chris Boardman also rode on an Eddy Merckx painted Hotta in the 1998 Prologue.


and he won it!

Love the fork with the bars winged off the side.

Stevep4
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2017 6:13 am

Re: Hotta TT700

Postby Stevep4 » Sat Sep 16, 2017 3:12 am

Here is my Hotta. I cannot go down to plain carbon, as the carbon was not lacquered before the original paint, so the paint will be within the carbon weave.
Considering a fresh paint with titanium white (same as the bars) and perhaps a Union Jack air brushed down the flanks. I certainly have no intention to sell this one.

The rear brake mount is simply 10mm diameter with a slight recess for the retaining screw. The screw has to be VERY shallow, as it is SOOO close to touching the tyre.

You do also need to deflate the rear tyre before you an get the wheel out.

I intend to use a Cervelo P3 brake plate, as this will allow the use of a standard brake nut. There should be no problem drilling and hitting a rivnut to secure the brake plate.

https://flic.kr/p/YsoHao

https://flic.kr/p/Y93bXw

https://flic.kr/p/Yu1Yuu

https://flic.kr/p/Y93NfL

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