Mountain Bke for MTB Track Touring [e.g., Mundi Biddi]

[Aushiker]

G'day

Doing a bit of dreaming, may have some "extra" money this coming semester etc, so just playing around with the idea of getting a new MTB. It would be used for off-road touring (i.e., playing on the Mundi Biddi, weekend and longer rides, carrying camping gear etc). It is not intended to use this bike for commuting or competitive MTB riding.

What I am interested in is suggestions on either models or specifications to look for in a bike. I really have no concept of what is ideal or bikes outside the Giant range, hence this posting. My initial thought was an Giant Alias or Talon but wonder about other brands, better specs etc.

In terms of budget I am looking in the $1,000 (realistic) to $1,500 (will have to hammer the plastic) range for the bike.

Suggestions on models, specifications?

Regards
Andrew

[MountGower]

Surley Pugsley

[alchemist]

I'd pick the Surly Karate Monkey over the Pugsley (or if you're not going to be encountering much sand a Cross-check)

Also have a look at the KHS Tuscon & Soma Juice. Although all these options might be hammering the plastic - unless you have some bits and pieces lying around for the build

[LuckyPierre]

I got one of these for a whisker under $1,000 - after swapping out the headstem (for a shorter, flatter one), the pedals (Shimano M324's) and adding BBB bar ends and bidon cages. It does pay to have a good relationship with your lbs.

[heavymetal]

I did the Munda Biddi on a $395 Giant Boulder with 5 days food, and 2 days water stuffed into 4 panniers and on top of the racks, along with a tent. It went well. The touring detours didn't exist back then.

I have toured it several other times on a better quality Giant Rincon, which was also my general touring bike at the time.

Both bikes had front suspension. For the steeper parts, I'd recommend something with at least a front disk and decent rear rack mount holes.

Also sling the knobby tyres away as they were useless on that pea gravel on the Munda Biddi. While on the track I changed back to the road/gravel tyres that I had with me, (carying spare tyres as well that I had on while riding to the start of the track. (no car, so I ride to the start/end) and back.

Kev.

[LuckyPierre]

Also sling the knobby tyres away as they were useless on that pea gravel ... I changed back to the road/gravel tyres ...

When (if?) I do my Canberra to the Coast ride it will mainly be on gravel roads. Do you have a preference for any particular tyre for that sort of stuff, Kev? It won't be 'pea gravel', but more country road 'hard pack'. I got the the standard Kenda's that came on my bike (it goes by 'Gfer' for now) replaced with some Maxxis CrossMarks which are fine for my local bushland, but probably a bit knobbly / overkill for touring on gravel.

[heavymetal]

The pea gravel over here is really bad when it's extremely dry. It's like riding on ball bearings of different sizes. I had a set of Continentals Road/gravel MTB 1.95 called a touring or top contact or something.

They had a normal road surface, but with incredibly deep patterns in the outer part, the tread and the edge of the tyre. These were able to get traction on the pea gravel.

There are quite a few good road/gravel tyres around at the moment that have the knobs only on the side edges.

I've switched to a 700c tourer now and no longer have an MTB, but my preference is still for Contis and I currently run a 700c equivalent, but without the real deep patterns.

The only problem with the 26 inch contis that I have heard is that they can have sidewall problems around the rim. I had one do this.

If your Canberra to the Coast trip is on gravel and road, I'd try and stick with a road/gravel tyre. These give a good performance on both surfaces. I also found that the road/gravel tyres went better in soft sand than the knobby tyres. You shouldn't have that problem though

Kev.

[Bnej]

Well I have an Alias, and you can fit an appropriate Giant rack which makes room for the disc callipers to that. I don't know how suitable it would be apart from that - it's good for the riding I'm doing but that's unloaded. The SRAM X.7 shifters are very good though.

If you're not doing severe off-road hills, I'd look at the cross check. It won't do it if you need to make technical MTB ascents/descents though as the geometry puts your weight too far forwards, but it might be a good off road tourer, and a lot lighter than MTBs.

[alchemist]

If you're not doing severe off-road hills, I'd look at the cross check. It won't do it if you need to make technical MTB ascents/descents though as the geometry puts your weight too far forwards, but it might be a good off road tourer, and a lot lighter than MTBs.

I'd beg to differ - but I have been described as nuts.

[europa]

If you're not doing severe off-road hills, I'd look at the cross check. It won't do it if you need to make technical MTB ascents/descents though as the geometry puts your weight too far forwards, but it might be a good off road tourer, and a lot lighter than MTBs.

I'd beg to differ - but I have been described as nuts.

No, that wasn't a random description, that was an observation based on firm evidence

Richard

[Kalgrm]

Also sling the knobby tyres away as they were useless on that pea gravel on the Munda Biddi.

I would strongly disagree with this quote because you are grouping all tyres with knobs into one category. There are so many tread patterns that to disregard ALL knobbies because one person had problems with the ones that came with the bike would be a strange decision indeed. The tyres that came on my first MTB (which was a Boulder too) were atrocious when taken off the road - even on hard-pack fire trails.

I whole-heartedly recommend getting a 2.1" Kenda Blue Groove Stick-E for the front and a 2.1" Kenda Nevegal Stick-E or DTC for the rear. They are the duck-nuts on the pea gravel - and just about any other surface except deep mud, for that matter.

As for the bike: Giants generally are better specced for the price than nearly every other makers' MTBs. So if the budget is tight, that might be the way to go. However, for touring, the lower end bikes from any maker might cause you grief when you least want it. The frames will be made of Al, which might not be up to the rigours of loaded touring offroad. If I were you, I'd be looking at a steel framed bike from makers like Rocky Mountain and Surly - but it will cost a little more.

(Disclosure - I have a Giant XtC for off road riding on single track. I haven't toured on it yet, but when I do, I think I'll be buying a BOB Ibex trailer to carry the load. Less load on the bike and I still have a fun bike when I'm not touring.)

[Aushiker]

However, for touring, the lower end bikes from any maker might cause you grief when you least want it.

Thanks Graeme and everyone for your comments. I will look out for the tyres you mention too.

Referring to your comment above, what would you consider a lower end bike? Do you put say the Giant Alias or Talon in this category.

I looked at the Surley but assume I would need to build the bike. This might be out of my skill range.

Regards
Andrew

[Bnej]

You can get a Surly Cross Check as a complete bike. Comes with Tiagra running gear, bar end shifters, 32mm knobblies.

See here

[europa]

I'd take it easy before discounting heavymetal's advice on tyres. He doesn't drive a car and spends his free months touring, fully loaded, on those very roads you are talking about. If anyone understands what's needed, he probably does and, like many things in this game, everyone's experiences vary

Richard

[heavymetal]

Also sling the knobby tyres away as they were useless on that pea gravel on the Munda Biddi.

I would strongly disagree with this quote because you are grouping all tyres with knobs into one category. There are so many tread patterns that to disregard ALL knobbies because one person had problems with the ones that came with the bike would be a strange decision indeed. The tyres that came on my first MTB (which was a Boulder too) were atrocious when taken off the road - even on hard-pack fire trails.

My point exactly, sling the tyres away as the ones that come on the giant are useless. However I was using aftermarket tyres. When buying a new bike I always change tyres and tubes as the ones that come on a bike are usually low end.

The thing that I have found with an overloaded MTB with knobby tyres in that pea gravel is that they don't grip. Letting the air out even more, results in inch flats.

Let us know how you find the trail.

Kev

[heavymetal]

You can get a Surly Cross Check as a complete bike. Comes with Tiagra running gear, bar end shifters, 32mm knobblies.

See here

In Perth it's a different story. If someone finds a store that actually can get Surly parts or Surly bikes, then please let me know. I mean a shop that actually can get them, not say "I can get them"

I've tried on numerous occasions to acquire Surly racks, but they never show up.

Kev.

[Aushiker]

In Perth it's a different story. If someone finds a store that actually can get Surly parts or Surly bikes, then please let me know. I mean a shop that actually can get them, not say "I can get them"

According to Surley's website, Riders Choice in Leederville are "dealers." I have emailed them. Will be interested to see if they reply and if they do what there response is.

Andrew

[heavymetal]

According to Surley's website, Riders Choice in Leederville are "dealers." I have emailed them. Will be interested to see if they reply and if they do what there response is.

They along with some of the other shops may be "dealers". The last time I ordered Surly, the LBS told me the problem was with DirtWorks, who is apparently the sole distributor in Oz.

The LBS called Dirtworks something else and said that they are sick of trying to get parts from them.

I'm after a Surly LHT, largest frame that will take a 26 inch wheel. As soon as the bank balance recovers from the move and recent purchases, I'm looking at one of these. I believe that I can get one direct from the states.

I'd be interested in how you go with Riders Choice. I've never dealt with them.

Kev.

[Bnej]

Might just be that the Dirtworks rep sucks in your area. In any case they are advertising the LHT and Cross Check extensively, so I think they surely must be selling them to someone. I know one rider on my group has purchased an LHT frame through the LBS.

Cheeky monkey I think gets them direct from the US rather than through Dirtworks, as they are listed by Surly as a distributor.

But it sure is a pain in the neck to want something, and have the money, and still be unable to get it.

[Aushiker]

I'd be interested in how you go with Riders Choice. I've never dealt with them. Kev.

Hi Kev

Below please find the response I got from Riders Choice to my initial query:

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for your email, sorry for the late reply

We certainly do sell surly bikes, as you probably know the karate monkey is only available as a frame/fork only $839.00, we can definitely make up a build kit for you spec would depend on your preferences and budget, do you have any idea at this stage what you might be wanting? eg, sram vs shimano components disc or v brake rigid or sus fork?

Another bike wish you may want to have a look at is the salsa el mariachi, complete $2399.00

http://www.salsacycles.com/mariachi_complete.html

I hope this is useful info let me know if there iis anything else I can do for you

Cheers
Rohan

Pretty reasonable response I reckon.

Regards
Andrew

[heavymetal]

Thanks Andrew.

The question I ponder now is if I go in and order what I want, whether I will get it this year.

Kev.

[europa]

Thanks Andrew.

The question I ponder now is if I go in and order what I want, whether I will get it this year.

Kev.

Don't be hard to get on with

Richard

[Aushiker]

Thanks Andrew.

The question I ponder now is if I go in and order what I want, whether I will get it this year. Kev.

That I am not so concerned about .... saves the plastic a bit longer.

I am working towards turning this into an interesting project, hence my first question. Given the context of my proposed use, how important are disc brakes? I ask because Surly state:

KM has cable stops and hydro housing guides. Also single eyelets at drops for fenders or rack.
IMPORTANT: if using disc brakes, you will not be able to use these eyelets, and so need to use clip on fenders and/or a seat post mounted rack

and this bike will be used for touring. I some how doubt a seat posted mounted rack is not going to carry the requisite gear.

Regards
Andrew

[heavymetal]

Don't be hard to get on with

I'm not , but I think 9 months between ordering the last thing with Surly on it and it's arrival has left me with a sour taste in my mouth.

Also wasting countless amounts of money ringing a certain bicycle shop in Sydney, leaving a message and they never ring back.

I'm off to see if I can get a frame in 2 weeks

Kev.

[heavymetal]

I am working towards turning this into an interesting project, hence my first question. Given the context of my proposed use, how important are disc brakes?

and this bike will be used for touring. I some how doubt a seat posted mounted rack is not going to carry the requisite gear.

You could always run with a disc on the front and normal on the back. There are some rear racks that are supposed to fit disc brake rears. The rack that I have is apparently a disc brake rack, but I haven't got discs. I only brought the rack because of the angle of the legs.

Kev.