The place for fixies and other rides without gears
25 posts • Page 1 of 1
I'm in the process of building my second bike, but progress has been a little slow due to other commitments and a desire to take my time with it. To prevent myself from rushing things, this weekend I put together an "interim" fixie so I'll have something to enjoy while I build the other, "proper" bike.
A lot of the parts are recycled from my first attempt and will be recycled a third time on the final product. Then I'll replace with shiny new parts as time and budget allows.
Here are some photos. I built my first wheel for this bike with a Normandy flip-flop I picked up at last weeks swap-meet. Was please with how true I got the wheel. There is a slight buckle in the rim but once the rubber is pumped up it's not noticeable. Check out the pro truing jig complete with cable-tie feelers. Worked a treat though! (frame used for the "jig" the will be the eventual "proper" bikes frame)
Frame I'm using is a compact tange which claims to be "Custom Built". Anyone have any clue to it's origin? Love the bottom-bracket cups, and the dropouts *might* be stamped with "SUNTOUR GT" though it's impossible to read them as they're been ward down by years of use. Best guess is it's a Ricardo Elite bike (S.A. builder i think?) - unless the "elite" sticker was added later.
Tange obviously, the lug work is nice - suggests it might be mid to upper tubing quality?
This frame was originally set to the scraps pile as I wrongly assumed it was a 26" wheel frame since I was not able to fit an inflated 27" wheel onto it. Guess it's just a 27" (maybe 700c) frame with a shorter wheel base? The 27"s fit nice and snugly if installed deflated.
Rides great, 42x18 gearing is good for the learning curve - dispite missing some skin on my shin, learning to ride and skid-stop is coming progressing well. I'll eventualy graduate to a higher gear-inch but piced up the 18t rear at the swap-meet for $5.
Finished with pretty standard front-break and the ol' chop n' flop bars complete with recycled tape for the authentic "hobo" look.
Curious as to why you are using a 27" wheel on this build? Most people scrap them in favour of 700c wheels.
Is it just parts that are handy etc? Dont get me wrong, im building 2 bikes using them and they roll great.
Just because that's what I have. Not going for a period restore or anything (obviously) - just keeping it cheap. I didn;t wan to drop $$$ on new wheels for something I'm doing as a hobby. I've had to buy a few tools and the like, so I'm working with whats cheaply available at the moment.
I have the matching front hub also, but since spokes for the rear set me back $50, I decided I'd wait and eventualy but 700c rims before using the front hub. 'Tis a work in progress, something I'll continue to build and evolve
It IS possible to get narrower tyres to fit on the standard 27" x 1-1/4" rim. I am aware that 27" x 1" tyres were made, but may be harder to source these days.
It's not so much the width as it is the profile. (I think that's the right terminology). From the edge of the rim, there is only about 3cm until the support behind the bottom bracket. Luckily my gear setup does not require the wheel to be too forward in the dropouts and I'm left with about 1cm clearance once the tire is inflated. There is just not enough clearance to squeeze an inflated tire into the dropouts.
I quiet like it actually - looks nice and compact and like it was "made" specifically for a close, compact design. Does that make it a 700c frame?
Ah Brendan. I don't want to upset you, but looking at the frame you built as your "interim" versus you "proper" build I be thinking that you have your frame choices mixed up. The dropouts on your "proper" build look to me as they are cheap stamped items, thus suggesting to me that the tubing will be low end, probably Hi-ten. I would spend the time on the Ricardo I think it is a much better frame. The dropouts and lugs suggest to me that it is probably made from Tange 900 double butted tubing (seat post should be 26.6mm), The fork to is probably Tange, pull it out of the headset and have a look at the steerer it should have Tange stamped on it. The reason why you struggled to fit the 27" wheels in is that the frame is made for 700c wheels. Cheers Scott.
Don't know, the difference between a 27" and 700c is only 6mm.
Still I can only fit 27" 1 1/4 rim and low profile tire in the front fork of one of my two 700c forks and not as a rear tyre in either of the two frames.
You can get some low profile 27" 1 1/4 tyres with kevlar, cost around $40 a pop. Mine are Sefras, I seen similar Bontragers on a friends and seeing you are in Victoria Abbortsford Cycles have a few different varieties.
Last edited by nickobec on Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am with SingleSpeedScott the old Ricardo Elite frame is the better of the two, check which frame has the biggest seatpost? Bigger seatpost means less less steel used in the tubes. All had the same external dimensions, so the lighter frames had thinner tubes and bigger internal diameter. Mind you the stamped vs forged dropouts are a giveaway too. Your Ricardo should be 26.6mm which is pretty good.
I have the same frame post here right down to a very similar serial number and this is Rustychisel's old Ricardo Elite fixed.
And I could not managed to fit a 27" wheel in the back of my frame, so good work. I was thinking 27" front, 700c rear for a slightly different look for mine.
I had come to that same decision/conclusion myself. Only reason I started with the other frame (stripping, sanding, de-brazing) was because I wrongfully assumed this frame was a 26" or smaller wheel frame. Since building it up, and taking the time to closely inspect it I realised it is superior to the other frame. I'm now thinking of finishing the prep on the other frame so I can sell it/give it away and focus on the elite. I see another weekend of swapping frames in my future.
Thanks for the verification.
Hey Nic. Frame looks the same but different forks. I had actually wondered why the rear wheel was such a tight squeeze for the 27" but the front has plenty of clearance. In-fact, on the front I need to use a longer set of break callipers so the pads contact the rim & not the tire. Despite the matching paint, perhaps the forks are not matching tange? Like SingleSpeed said, I'll have a look next time i have the headset in pieces. I like the forks though, a little more shapely than the older-style lugged ones.
The steerer is a bit too long for the headset I'm using - I assume it's because at one point it had the extra reflector-bracket which required an extra 5mm thread. Am I safe to get out the hacksaw and lob off a few mm? Or better buying a new, more appropriate headset? Currently using a spare BB locking ring as a spacer..
RE: Seat post, it defiantly requires a thicker number (need to get a set of those measuring-pincer-things) as a seat tube I got from MickP few weeks ago is far to thin despite it being a good fit for other bikes. The seat post I'm currently using is marginally thinker and requires a very tight tuning to stay put. Will invest in an appropriate post - especially now I'm almost certain to make this elite my main ride.
Last edited by brendan03 on Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
Excellent choice. I realised too that I in correctly assumed that the frame is Tange 900. I had a look at my own Ricardo elite in the shed and it is actually Tange Champion, so the seatpost should be a 26.8mm. And yes yopu should be fine to trim the steerer up to fit just "measure twice cut once as they say". Cheers Scott.
Maybe you have an even older 28" fork, painted to match the frame after an act of destruction on the original 700c forks.
My forks where originally chrome, but it was flaking badly, I got them bead blasted. The only reason I believe them to be original is they also have Suntour GT dropouts. A 27" inch wheel slots in so well, but it was running a 700c anodised Shimano 105 wheelset and Dia-Compe G brakes, definitely not stock for a Ricardo Elite.
Got me a digital one from Bunnings, works well for older eyes like mine, less than $25. Building bikes it is a very usefully tool to have.
Quick question for the more mechanically experienced: Will this (or one like it) headset on ebay fit what i belive to the pretty standard 1" threaded fork on this bike?
Without calipers (thanks trmac ) I'm a little unsure.
Standard size? Or best to wait till i can measure and/or take it into the LBS?
My understanding and I'm prepared to be wrong is that the threaded top race should fit the steerer fine and that the size of the headset cups is pretty universal for road frame (italian, french and iso).
Sheldon tells us that 26.4 is standard http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ha-i.html#headset . I've had two different sets of forks that must have been older and where the fork had to be reamed out to fit a standard crown race (26.4).
Most lbs will only have the standard 1" threaded headsets in stock, rather than lots of different sizes. They offered to order one in but it was just as easy to ream out the forks to fit the normal crown race.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong
The two LBS's I've been into are pitching around the $60 for a BBB or like brand. I don't mind that that eBay seller is listing his stock cheaply, then using the shipping cost to make the money (it's less than $30 total when item+shipping is combined) but I do mind that the item's description does not match the item in the picture.
I'll grab something from a more reputable eBay store I think, looks like there is plenty of choice in in $30-$40 range.
This is where it is handy to start developing a rapport with your local or not so local LBS.
There are a few Victorians on this forum (including at least one who works in one) who can recommend a good LBS
You need to check your fork's steerer tube. If the steerer is stamped with a little round symbol with the letters JIS in it you will require a race of 27.0 diametre, the Japanese Industry Standard.
Got these head sets at my LBS in Geelong, Campione Cycles.
$15 for 1" threaded forks, 27.0mm, sealed bearings, chrome and includes crown race.
Pretty sure they can get Shimano 105 ones for about $50 but dont quote me on that. I can find out more next time im there.
Ignore the spacers in the photo, they are getting removed, but the headset works perfectly and is very smooth.
Thanks for the replies. Abbortsford Cycles came to the party where others couldn't. Both BSC's in the city & CWC (all within working distance from work) only had a $50+ option, and only in black. Picked up a sealed bearing unit for $35 at Abborsford which looks good. I'll add some pics once I get it installed. I should mention in CWC & BSC defence that Abborsford were selling the BBB unit for $60 where the other guys were ~$50. But Abb. had the option of something less expensive, oh, and something not black.
Only question now is do I install the headset, or do get serious & strip down the elite and prep it for a fresh new paint job.
Was happy to keep it "as-is" before, but now it's assuming the role as my "pride and joy" I think I'll be kind and save it from the rust. Shame I'm going to have to loose the decals in the process... the paint is too far gone for a touch-up.
Off to eBay with the other frames to pay for new paint!
BTW: Why do some forks have a vertical groove though the steerer and some do not? The fork on the elite doesn;t have the groove, but the washer that came with the headset does.. issue or just file down the "tongue" on the headset washer (same style as seen in fletch's pic above)
The groove is to key the washer in the headset assembly. This helps to ensure that as you tighten the top-nut it will tighten the headset rather than just turn the top race. Helps to enable tightening without proper headset spanners.
If your fork doesn't have a groove, just file off the tab. But you'll need proper headset spanners to lock your bearing setting.
Riding bikes in traffic - what seems dangerous is usually safe; what seems safe is often more dangerous.
All the "proper" tools i've had to buy have cost more than I've actually spent on the bike(s)! Should have just bought an all-encompassing tool set from the get-go.
Problem is most tool sets are usually missing some tool thaqt you need. I have found it is better to just buy them as you need them. I also try to buy the best that I can afford because once you start playing with bikes you cant stop.
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