The right size road bike?
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The right size road bike?
Postby perception twin » Sat Aug 04, 2007 7:21 pm
I have found a good second hand road bike for sale which I would want to check out but I am not sure if its an appropriate size.
The owner has said it is a 52cm frame, and I have an 84cm cycling inseam.. so according to some guides this means I should get a 54cm frame, but is 2cm really that much of a difference? If its on the borderline I will check it out anyway and it may be fine. Is it true this will make it harder to reach the handlebars as the seat would have to be higher if the frame is smaller. Is it simply a matter of compensating with lifting up the handlebar stem???
I don't want to waste money getting something that won't be suitable, even though this bike is exactly what I want and it is a good deal
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Postby perception twin » Sat Aug 04, 2007 7:38 pm
Do you know what your cycling inseam was? Also whats your height? I am 180cm I am pretty sure
I know in some ways its a matter of personal taste as to what feels comfortable, but I guess my question is how easy is it to modify bits to make it fit e.g. steering stem, seat stem etc.. as long as the height and lenght is comfortable.
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Postby CoffeeNut » Sat Aug 04, 2007 9:47 pm
I'm 172cm with stocky legs - so my upper reach is OK. We measured the Pilot frame and found the difference between the 54cm and 52cm was 2cm vertically (well - duh), and 1 cm in reach - as it panned out the 52 was ideal for me. If you are 180cm then I would be very surprised if the 52 would 'fit' - but then again - what do I know :):)
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Postby tallywhacker » Sun Aug 05, 2007 3:28 am
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Postby thomas_cho » Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:48 am
Have you tried www.wrenchscience.com ? Go to the road section, and click on bike fit. You will have to register to get into the fitting system.
Migh give you more indications as to your bike fit.
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Postby europa » Sun Aug 05, 2007 10:35 am
Welcome to the nuthouse.
Now to your question. Measuring bits of you and then trying to make them fit bikes sizes is an approximation at best. I'm sorry, but there is no way to get around sitting on the bike in person.
For starters, this business of 'frame size' varies between manufacturers and sometimes varies within the same manufacturer. It's a number, no more than that.
Then you need to consider Tally's comments - there are a lot of components that go into giving a human a certain height and each of these can impact on the final bike setup.
Your inseam measurement will help your standover height ... but that's it. For example, I seem to need my seat set back further than the norm and am beginning to wonder if this is due to my thigh bone being a tad longer than the norm.
Seat height is affected not only by the length of your leg bones but by how you rotate your ankle when riding, though fortunately, we're only talking a cm or two there.
Your flexibility also affects bike fit, both in seat height but also in reach. My Trek520 which fitted when new, no longer fits 1,500 kms later because I'd become fitter and more flexible. Mind you, it does fit now because I went to the trouble of changing various parts of the bike but that doesn't alter the fact that I've made the best with a bike that is one frame size too small.
So, although bike fitting seems simple to start with, it gets complex very quickly and will change with your body.
This isn't to say you're going to be faced with an endless chase for new bikes and bike parts. Fortunately, it's only fussy buggers like me that do that (and a lot of that is just the joy of the hunt), but you do need to get a good heart for the set up, and that heart is the bike frame.
So, here's the easy part of the advice.
- Go sit on the bike in person. If you don't, you will be guessing.
- Stand over the bike, feet flat on the ground. You need a gap of a couple of fingers between the top tube and your PELVIC BONE. Not the soft tissue (as most people advodcate) but the bone. If the bike is a traditional diamond frame, you may find the top tube touching the soft tissue but I can assure you that after 20 years riding the Europa where this is the case, this hasn't been a problem. If the bike has a sloping top tube, like most modern bikes, you'll find this gap is much larger.
- Get the seat set to something like a good riding height - it only needs to be rough, and look at how much drop there is from the seat to the bars - how much below the seat are they. The modern racing fashion is to have the bars very low. This is great for aerodynamics and works with fit, flexible people but for still old gits like me, it places a lot of weight on the hands and can become torture. I like my bars at the same height as the seat. Bars can be raised but it can be frustrating and expensive to do it these days if you have to raise them more than a cm or two. So try to buy a frame that puts the bars up near where you would like them eventually.
- Now look at reach. Don't buy a bike on which you feel cramped. You shouldn't feel like you are stretching out too far either but as you get fitter, your back and abdomen muscles will strengthen and your reach will increase. The trick is to find something that isn't making you stretch too far.
If you can get a ride on the bike, so much the better because it's amazing how what feels good stationary (even on a wind trainer) feels horrid on the road - handle bar position is a good one here.
I know this sounds like a lot and I understand the attraction of saying "I'm so high, I'll buy that", I understand the seduction of internet sites with fancy programs and lots of numbers. Mate, they're not worthless but you need to apply them to the above physical try out.
You're buying second hand so I'm guessing the money is a bit tight. This to me means that you want to get it as close to right as you can so I offer you this single piece of gospel - if you can't ride it, don't buy it.
Richard
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Postby perception twin » Sun Aug 05, 2007 3:28 pm
I have found a couple more bikes to consider in the mean time but I have taken in all of the information given to me about which parts to consider when sizing up a bike.
I have a feeling that the bike that I was considering in the OP will be a bit of a hard ride for me as even the current owner has the seat a fair bit higher than the handlebars. I now believe thanks to your posts that I want a bigger frame that lets me have the handlebars up closer to my seat height. I have never ridden a road bike only MTB so I dont exactly want to go from straight up riding down to biting the tires aero position Though I still might check it out if I have time. Another problem is It only has clip in pedals so I cant ride it so thats another minus.. might need to sort out some strap ones so I can try out the second hand bikes.
I am buying second hand as I am a student so I dont want to risk losing money on a bike . I decided to get a "transition" bike so I can decide what I want out of cycling and then I can lay down the bucks to get a proper shop fitted and set up bike.
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Postby europa » Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:27 pm
You know, I'd suggest you buy yourself an eighties road bike. Sure, it'll only have a five or six speed cluster, downtube shifters (probably friction) and 27" wheels rather than 700c, however, if you're a little patient, you can get them for around $100 (plus a bit, less a bit). They are dirt cheap to run, will get you used to road riding and when you buy your good bike, will serve as a bike you don't mind leaving around - there's nothing scarier than chaining your pride and joy to a fence and walking away from it for a couple of hours. Excellent bikes for the ride to uni with the 'goodun' for the weekend blast.
Richard
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Postby perception twin » Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:48 pm
I am actually looking at an 10 speed Europa for around that price, I just have to check it out to see if it fits and rides all right
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Postby europa » Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:01 pm
When that photo was taken, those wheels and tyres had indeed never been ridden **pokes tongue out**. Those wheels have since been back to the doctor's to get the spokes retightened.MountGower wrote:Time for a poll.
Who reckons that fixie looks like it's never been ridden?
By the way, that nearled ring you can see aroung the stem is the minimum insertion line. Your not supposed to be able to see it.
The minimum insertion ring is below the top of the steering tube ... just. However, the text stamped on the neck referring to is indeed visible
Richard
**retracts tongue, thinks, pokes it out again**
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Postby europa » Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:03 pm
Europa's were a mixed bag. Some were built by the owner, a respected frame maker, many were made in Japan by Nishiki (and maybe other firms).perception twin wrote:Hey Richard,
I am actually looking at an 10 speed Europa for around that price, I just have to check it out to see if it fits and rides all right
Mine is a Nishiki who were, at that time, a well respected brand.
Richard
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Postby Mulger bill » Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:05 pm
MountGower wrote:Time for a poll.
Who reckons that fixie looks like it's never been ridden?
By the way, that nearled ring you can see aroung the stem is the minimum insertion line. Your not supposed to be able to see it.
Self preservation prevents me commenting
I've been toying with total insanity, hunting 2nd hand shops and ebay for an eighties roadie with a view to conversion as a fixie shopping bike
See what this place does to a sensible MTB lad...
Shaun
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Postby europa » Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:55 pm
One of the simple pleasures of riding a fixie (you need to be simple to start with, especially in my area ) is to leave your fixie unlocked in a public space, then wait for some idiot to try to steal it
Richard
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Postby tallywhacker » Sun Aug 05, 2007 10:02 pm
it looks that way because people who ride fixed gear don't have to spend all their time adjusting shifters and derailleurs, we just need to give it a wipe down after a ride.MountGower wrote:Time for a poll.
Who reckons that fixie looks like it's never been ridden?
By the way, that nearled ring you can see aroung the stem is the minimum insertion line. Your not supposed to be able to see it.
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Postby Mulger bill » Sun Aug 05, 2007 11:14 pm
I've got enough hilly stuff around here to forgo derailleurs on a heavy bike... hang on, Bruces dusty carcass has a broken dropout already...hmmm AAARGH
Shaun
weakening...
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Postby perception twin » Sun Aug 05, 2007 11:23 pm
I have found a good used Peugeot (not the old one) it looks to be from the 2000's pretty new, has 9 speed campagnolo veloce, ridden about 300k's... I shall check it out. The only problem is there is NOTHING on the internet about the bikes.
After some more searching it turns out the frame is made by Colombus and it is tapered steel. I guess the frame and groupset is pretty much the "bike" so it seems decent.
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Postby europa » Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:22 am
That'd be a very nice bike to have, in fact one you may not want to leave lying around at Uni. But if it works for you, you'd be on a good bike there.perception twin wrote:haha I love how this thread went from bike sizing to a discussion on fixies
I have found a good used Peugeot (not the old one) it looks to be from the 2000's pretty new, has 9 speed campagnolo veloce, ridden about 300k's... I shall check it out. The only problem is there is NOTHING on the internet about the bikes.
After some more searching it turns out the frame is made by Colombus and it is tapered steel. I guess the frame and groupset is pretty much the "bike" so it seems decent.
Richard
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Postby perception twin » Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:50 am
I don't intend on riding to uni, I don't think I would want to tackle North East Road at peak hour that's for sure nor Main North road. Oh yeah, I am in Adelaide too North East.europa wrote:That'd be a very nice bike to have, in fact one you may not want to leave lying around at Uni. But if it works for you, you'd be on a good bike there.
Richard
I don't intend to use the bike for going to the shops nor commuting so I think It would be safe
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Postby europa » Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:56 am
The North East isn't a fun area to come in from. Have you seen the Bike Direct Maps?perception twin wrote:I don't intend on riding to uni, I don't think I would want to tackle North East Road at peak hour that's for sure nor Main North road. Oh yeah, I am in Adelaide too North East.europa wrote:That'd be a very nice bike to have, in fact one you may not want to leave lying around at Uni. But if it works for you, you'd be on a good bike there.
Richard
I don't intend to use the bike for going to the shops nor commuting so I think It would be safe
They are very good.
Get along the Linear Park on your new bike - a great way to get used to the bike and one of my favourite runs.
If the Peugot doesn't work out for you, and it's a 25" frame (measure the seat tube), give a yell, it might suit me and I'm half in the market for that style of bike.
Richard
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Postby perception twin » Wed Aug 08, 2007 11:31 am
Also I tried out that Peugeot, I think it is "the one".. It fits just right, the frame is just right in size, was comfortable even without proper shoes (though those flat hard soled casual shoes do pretty well as a substitute) and the reach was good (not too hard to get aero). It has those nice shifters (STi?) where you have a downshifter as well as an upshifter instead of pushing the brake lever either way. When I got home I was so inspired I even took my dodgy MTB for a ride
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