From bike riding in your bathers to making the distance
15 posts • Page 1 of 1
Nobody can answer this question for you. There are way too many variables at play, not the least of which is how well trained YOU are. The biggest time savings will be made by training effectively.
It would depend a lot of you. Shorter/longer cranks might help, lighter wheels might help, but in the end even with the best equipment a poorly-trained athlete will still fall behind a well-trained athlete riding on old junk.
All the little changes are affecting different things - some are for weight, some are to improve power transfer and some are for aerodynamics.
The improvements from the items which improve power transfer will depend on how much power you currently miss out on by not having them.
The improvements from the items which improve aerodynamics will depend on how fast you currently ride.
The improvements from the items which lower weight will depend on how much your bike currently weighs and how much power you can produce (F=ma).
In order to answer the question you've asked, we need you to list your weight, your bike's weight, how much power you can produce, what your current coefficient of drag is, what your bike's coefficient of drag is, what sort of road you ride on, how fast you ride now and so on.
Alternatively, I can inform you that if you add all these improvements to your bike, you will get an extra 9.5742km/h out of your bike's top speed over the length of your 22.45km commute*.
* I might be guessing here.
In a TT a heavier bike usually wins over a... weenie? (Is that the correct term?). Obviously if you're starting and stopping then lighter is better, but if you're a diesel (like our very own TLL), then a heavier bike (not panniers and racks) could be better in maintaining momentum. Obviously aerodynamics plays a big part.
Mistress = Pinarello Opera, Ultegra SL
Mistress #2 = Drag Bluebird
Flat course, 20 - 40 kms, ride fixed wheel. Try on around 81 inches. You will know after the first one if that was too high or too low. I recently compared my times over a mixed hilly flat 42 ik course riding my carbon bike with Ultegra and gears and my regular Italian steel commuter fixed and there was less than a minute in it and I was not actually trying. It was just something I noted with interest.
Sources of improvement: priority order.
4. Ahh it just goes on and on.
Remember to put oil on the chain.
There are so many things. Position on the bike for pedalling effectiveness. Position on the bike for aerodynamic effectiveness. Do not start worrying about weight or aerodynamics until you have got to an average speed for the leg of 40 kph.
My 2d worth.
I'm no expert but from what I've read on the internet (it must be true if it's on the interweb! ) aero is most important. As in position on the bike. A cheap way of getting more aero is to buy clip-on aero bars something like this - http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=K6667 and a TT helmet something like this - http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/LRH ... -TT-Helmet.
Pedals like these - http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/SHP ... PD-R670%29 and compatible shoes something like this - http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/NOS ... -Road-Shoe would help transfer the power more efficiently as well.
in like, track cycling, aerodynamics is more important than the bikes weight. as for your bicycle in real life though, in a TT, the guy who rides the best wins the race; take Dave Millar in the Tour of italy last year; he had a full aerosuit and helmet, barely legal custom time trialling bars and a time trial frame, but dennis menchov won with a "standard" bike and clothes.
however, a new set of wheels and aerobars will do the best for you. for most triathlon events, you can hire out TT wheelsets. they're harder riding, and have deep dishes.
anything more is superfluous; you usually dont win TT's by fractions of seconds.
What are these salesmen peddling?
There are three things important in a tri bike leg.
Aero, aero and aero
Seriously though, your position on the bike will make the biggest difference.
Next best bang for you buck is a aero helmet and then wheels.
Weight means nothing in most tri bike legs (flat or close to) and while tyres are important, the difference is miniscule compared to the difference an excellent position will make.
Aero or die!
2007 Orbea Aspin
2008 Cervelo P3C
Having clip on aerobars will give you the most bang for your buck. Theoretically if you are generating the same amount of power you should be faster than without aero bars, assuming all other factors are equal. If you are going at the same speed you will be using less power and energy (in theory again). You will also benefit on the run as you will be feeling fresher.
A wise man once said “The human spirit can overcome any obstacle.” That man had obviously never run a triathlon.
15 posts • Page 1 of 1
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