Trike Traction
- Profpinz
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Trike Traction
Postby Profpinz » Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:02 pm
I've been a lurker since I decided to by a recumbent trike about 6 months ago, then I purchased a MR1 (basically a GT3...I opted for the Greenspeed steering option) from Michael Rogan about a month ago.
I'm very happy with the unit but I have one question that I thought riders and owners with far more experience of trikes than me, may be able to offer some advice on.
I tend to ride the bike paths in the eastern suburbs, but I also like to explore some of the smaller tracks that branch off the main bitumised routes.
The other day I took a well defined, gravel covered track and was almost at the top when I ran out of traction....the rear wheel just spun!
I spoke to Michael and have since played around with the tyre pressures to try and get the best ride/grip/minimise rolling resistance although even with the tyres reduced to the minimium recommended pressure I still can't get grip on the gravelly slope (My main passion is 4/6WDriving, so I know about traction )
My trike is fitted with Scorcher tyres but being slick I was debating about fitting a slightly "grippier" tyre on the rear.
Question:
> Is it acceptable to mix and match tyres ... different tyre on the rear to the two fronts?
> Would a tyre like a Schwalbe Marathon (which has some tread) be better in this situation?
Being a newbie any advice on the subject would be appreciated!
- Kalgrm
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Kalgrm » Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:36 pm
See if you can get some extra weight onto the rear wheel too, but I don't know how to transfer weight back on a 'bent. I know how to do it on a MTB.
Cheers,
Graeme
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Music was better when ugly people were allowed to make it ....
- PEDALPOWER44
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby PEDALPOWER44 » Sun Mar 14, 2010 4:17 am
Well you have come to the right place for advice on recumbent related matters.
I also have purchased 2 trike's through Mr Components, Michael Rogan is one of the most helpful people regarding any issues that arise with these wonderful machines.
I have to agree with Kalgrm though that some knobby tyres would probably be the way to go if you were to adventure "off road"
Can't say that i have had any wheel spin as i don't venture off road.
Btw the trikes i own are the MRX'S with all the bells and whistles i have had mine for about 6 months now and enjoy every minute i get to ride it.
My wife has just received hers and we both enjoy riding much more now ahhhh the comfort of it all.
Happy riding
(PP44)
Steve
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby JulianEdgar » Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:22 am
2) Fit knobbly rear tyre - not just one with tread.
3) Smoothness of pedalling - use of clip-in pedals and shoes will allow you to pedal more smoothly through full rotations, better retaining traction
4) Suspension (not applicable to your trike) - good, long-travel and soft suspension will keep rear wheel much better in contact with ground over bumps.
5) Three wheel drive - for short sections of no traction (eg deep gravel, mud) you can manually wind the trike along by turning the front wheels as you pedal
Edit: tonight on my homebuiult suspension trike I rode up a very steep dirt slope covered in loose rocks ranging in size from gravel to as large as my fist. I don't have a knobbly rear tyre, just one with vestigial tread. I got up it fine, helped a lot I think by the rearwards weight transfer of the suspension (front susp extended, rear compressed) and the fact the rear tyre was always on the ground.
- papa
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby papa » Mon Mar 15, 2010 7:14 pm
- Profpinz
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Profpinz » Mon Mar 15, 2010 7:16 pm
When I brought the MR1 I opted to fit Greenspeed type steering and SPD pedals (and metallic powdercoat, although that doesn't help with traction) so I have clip-on pedals, but as regards Julians other suggestion "manually wind the trike along by turning the front wheels as you pedal" I had to resort to this system on my ride earlier tonight........Forward progress on a gravel path stopped, so I switched to 3 wheel drive
Steve; When I was researching Michaels trikes I came across the picture of your MRX, which I used as "incentive" to further investigate purchasing one of MR Components trikes.
When I went to see Michael he was very good and helpful about recommending a suitable bike, gearing, options etc and when I suggested an MRX he thought an "optioned" MR1 would better suit my requirements and budget ....so see, you are partially reponsible for my purchase
- Profpinz
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Profpinz » Mon Mar 15, 2010 7:22 pm
I must admit I think I would have struggled to pull a higher gear when I got stuck on tonights ride, but I'm slowly developing "recumbent legs" so maybe in the future my leg strength will improve and allow me to do so.
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Joeblake » Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:50 am
If you intend to do any amount of dirt work, mixed with on-road, this may be a better option. (a) depending on the set up of your machine it may be quicker to change the entire wheel rather than the tyre (you'll have to take the wheel off anyway to change the tyre) (b) you could have a different gear cluster with a spread more suited for dirt. (c) it will save wearing out your "road" gears/wheel and make cleaning the "dirt" cluster easier, which will also help to reduce chain wear.
Joe
Bertrand Russell
- Profpinz
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Profpinz » Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:37 am
An idea well worth considering as it shouldn't take long to change wheels.
- chuckchunder
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby chuckchunder » Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:04 pm
I realise your trike will have 16" wheels, and having just checked notice Holy Rollers don't come in that size. Sorry, I guess any knobby will do, I just like the Holy Roller cause it rolls quite nicely (relatively) on bitumen. I did find that just about ANY tread on the back would make a difference though, so if you are riding bitumen as well it might be worth trying something with only a bit of tread, like a Schwalbe Marathon or similar (say something very cheap from K-Mart as a test?).
cheers
glen
- Kalgrm
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Kalgrm » Wed Mar 17, 2010 12:32 am
The second most important factor is maintaining a "circular" pedaling profile by trying to keep a nice, constant pressure on the pedals during the whole pedal stroke.
Cheers,
Graeme
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Music was better when ugly people were allowed to make it ....
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby fredinver » Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:17 pm
BTW anyone need 2 16 inch kmart tyres?
GT3 Trike
CA2.0
- Profpinz
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Profpinz » Wed Mar 17, 2010 9:02 pm
(I go down to between 4 and 6psi in the 6WD with beadlocks, to get maximium traction, but I've got a feeling that maybe a bit low in the trike tyres )
Based on the info, I'II experiment a bit before venturing to the next stage...... namely a more aggressive rear tyre.
- Kalgrm
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Kalgrm » Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:11 pm
When you are riding on dirt, lower tyre pressures provide lower rolling resistance due to the way the tyre rolls over bumps instead of being lifted by them, so don't worry about rolling resistance (at least while you're on the dirt).
Cheers,
Graeme
---------------------
Music was better when ugly people were allowed to make it ....
- Profpinz
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- Location: Melbourne
Re: Trike Traction
Postby Profpinz » Fri Mar 26, 2010 8:56 pm
Firstly I've been experimenting with tyre pressures and riding techniques that people have suggested, and I must say I can now get up some of the gravel tracks that have previously defeated me!
Today I got really brave and decided to tackle a narrow, mountain bike track that went through the bush over the top of the Ringwood tunnel. I'm keen to explore the limits of my trike and find it's maximium traction capabilities..... it's the 4WDriver in me that just can't resist those little tracks .
I got down the path without any problems but only about a third of the way up the other side before I lost traction, so I ended up carrying it up like a wheelbarrow.
OK, so I now know what a pretty standard trike can tackle, steepness wise.
I must admit I really like my tikes handling dynamics which seems more to me like a go-cart than a bike......lately I've been getting more brave tackling corners faster and faster, but yesterday I got a little over confident and rolled it in the carpark of all places whilst making a sharp U turn .....no major damage apart from a scratched wheel hub and seat top, but again I've learnt what the trike can and cannot do!
Basically I now know:
1/. The handling and cornering on bitumen is amazing, but sharp aggressive turns on grippy surfaces/bitumen, at anything more than a fast walking pace speed are a no-no!
2/. The handling and cornering on gravel tracks is "predictable" and a LOT of FUN!
3/. Traction on "steepish" gravel tracks is OK, but hightly dependant on tyre pressures and rider techniques and experience!
4/. I love my recumbent Trike!
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Re: Trike Traction
Postby Joeblake » Fri Mar 26, 2010 9:21 pm
Up until Monday this week my driveway was an absolute sandpit. Then it RAINED and the sandpit is now set like concrete. Before the rain I had to push my Greenspeed GTIII through the sand, but a little trick which may help you. Get about a metre or so of cord, make a loop and then put it around either the stub which holds the front derailleur or around the bottom bracket. I use this to "tow" the trike. The steering on the GTIII is set up so it follows behind me like a little dog on a lead. I don't even need to bend.Profpinz wrote:Well, I've been learning a lot about trikes lately.
...
I got down the path without any problems but only about a third of the way up the other side before I lost traction, so I ended up carrying it up like a wheelbarrow.
...
I must admit I really like my tikes handling dynamics which seems more to me like a go-cart than a bike......lately I've been getting more brave tackling corners faster and faster, but yesterday I got a little over confident and rolled it in the carpark of all places whilst making a sharp U turn .....no major damage apart from a scratched wheel hub and seat top, but again I've learnt what the trike can and cannot do!
Basically I now know:
1/. The handling and cornering on bitumen is amazing, but sharp aggressive turns on grippy surfaces/bitumen, at anything more than a fast walking pace speed are a no-no!
...
4/. I love my recumbent Trike!
Your comment about cornering on bitumen. I've found whilst it is possible to roll a 'bent trike, if you lean into the turn, in much the same way as a sidecar passenger does, it will help keep the inside wheel down. I used to do turns on two wheels a bit when I was (much) younger, but it stresses the frame and wheels too much. If you are looking for a bit of "Hoon" fun, find a place with smooth concrete (such as petrol service stations have) and throw a bucket of water on it. All sorts of fun. (In the interests of safety I won't describe what I used to do, but I'm sure you'll figure it out. )
Yep. Trikes are FUN. Glad to hear you're finding that out.
Joe
Bertrand Russell
- Profpinz
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- Location: Melbourne
Re: Trike Traction
Postby Profpinz » Fri Apr 09, 2010 5:25 pm
I have one steepish gravel track that I use as a "control" and taking into account all that I have learnt from posts on this forum I have in the past, at best, "just" made it to the top.... with 30PSI in the Scorcher.
Today I managed that same track/control with the Marathon on 65PSI and I reckon I had a bit of traction in reserve, so I think the change was pretty beneficial.
(I didn't notice any real difference on the bitumen)
....and so the quest continues with pressure changes next on the agenda.
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