Nobody wrote: .... It would leave too much of an opening for Shimano to step into the gap with a good road-cable or hydro-STI setup. I think the market is expanding for road style discs.
Lets hope so. A hydro STI version would be nice indeed

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Postby MichaelB » Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:05 am
Nobody wrote: .... It would leave too much of an opening for Shimano to step into the gap with a good road-cable or hydro-STI setup. I think the market is expanding for road style discs.
Postby rustychisel » Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:09 am
Postby janus77 » Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:16 am
Postby Nobody » Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:44 am
Sorry, you need to get onto a CT or Missy thread if you want to see 20 pages on nothing. Just look at the "I spent $10K on clothes this year" thread, or "My wheels went out of true" thread, or whatever they're called....rustychisel wrote:3 pages, the bikes not built and half the components haven't even turned up![]()
does this flaming thread go all the way to 20?
Postby MichaelB » Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:00 am
rustychisel wrote:3 pages, the bikes not built and half the components haven't even turned up![]()
does this flaming thread go all the way to 20?
Postby baabaa » Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:09 am
Postby cooperplace » Sat Aug 28, 2010 3:53 pm
Postby Nobody » Sat Aug 28, 2010 6:01 pm
cooperplace wrote:Hi Michael,
one thing you should be prepared for is noise: my BB7 makes a lot of it. I resisted the temptation to squirt some WD40 on it.
Peter
Postby MountGower » Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:40 pm
Postby cooperplace » Sun Aug 29, 2010 1:29 am
Nobody wrote:cooperplace wrote:Hi Michael,
one thing you should be prepared for is noise: my BB7 makes a lot of it. I resisted the temptation to squirt some WD40 on it.
Peter
What rotor?
Wet, dry or both?
Any particular speed?
What pads?
I've got 185 roundagons on the road bike and 160 Shimano SLX disc on the MTB, both with BB7 and sintered pads. I find the SLX disc more noisy and a bit more again when wet. The noise is not too loud like rim brake pad squeal is. At its worst it sounds like a metallic scraping sound that a pad back-plate makes rubbing on a car disc when the brakes have worn out. I mainly get the noise at lower speeds.
I've heard that the organic pads are quieter but don't last as long.
Postby Nobody » Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:32 am
Maybe have a look at the possible solutions in this MTBR article. I will add that maybe your pads could be glazed and it may be worth trying to bed them in again. My standard setup is almost silent now at speed and only gets a bit noisy when going slowly. It used to always squeal (to the point of being embarrassing) before I went to a big hill and bedded it in properly.cooperplace wrote:It's a BB7 out of the box, standard pads and rotor. Very noisy in the dry and wet.
Postby Nobody » Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:56 am
This just goes to show how much different setups change the results. As said above I found the more cutout SLX disc noisier. Although the Avid is 6 bolt and the SLX is centrelock.MountGower wrote:I'm using BB7s with Alligator Windcutters and the standard pads, which are excellent. No noise at all, wet or dry. The Roundagons were hideous.
Postby cooperplace » Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:32 pm
Nobody wrote:Maybe have a look at the possible solutions in this MTBR article. I will add that maybe your pads could be glazed and it may be worth trying to bed them in again. My standard setup is almost silent now at speed and only gets a bit noisy when going slowly. It used to always squeal (to the point of being embarrassing) before I went to a big hill and bedded it in properly.cooperplace wrote:It's a BB7 out of the box, standard pads and rotor. Very noisy in the dry and wet.
Since you are using a XACD Ti fork with the shims/washers, it may worth swapping the fork to see if the fork is the problem. Ti having a bit more flex may be introducing the movement to allow the squealing. That is the same reason I believe my steel forks (on both bikes) are a bit noisier at low speed.
Postby Nobody » Sun Aug 29, 2010 4:56 pm
Well, without changing anything or doing anything, it looks like you're stuck with the noise then...cooperplace wrote:Bed them in again????????? What do you mean by that? I followed the instructions from Avid to bed them in. As for swapping the fork, I don't think so.
Postby MichaelB » Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:54 am
Postby Crawf » Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:36 pm
Postby MichaelB » Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:47 pm
Jacobite wrote:I've got all my bits for the front end conversion
Well almost, I forgot to order a crown race and brake cables, I assumed a cable would come with the BB7's - but no.
Calliper and rotor alignment doesn't look to be an issue either.
Should be altogether this weekend ready for next Mondays commute!
I have some pics of the fork camparo if you want? There's an obvious change in trail and other geometry, so i'm wondering how sloppy the handling will get...
Postby MichaelB » Fri Sep 03, 2010 8:38 am
Postby rowdyflat » Sat Sep 04, 2010 3:03 pm
Postby MichaelB » Sat Sep 04, 2010 11:00 pm
Postby Crawf » Sun Sep 05, 2010 3:18 am
Postby Nobody » Sun Sep 05, 2010 8:01 am
Like car disc brakes when new, they need to be bedded in. Until you see a darker continuous strip around the disk on both sides, you're not there yet. You will know it when you are as IMO they will have more retardation leverage or braking power than road calipers eventually.Jacobite wrote:...they don't grab so well and don't pull you up incredibly well if you want to stop on a dime.
I didn't have this problem as I have the linear pull version. However you are probably better off having them a bit loose as you probably have more hand strength closer to the bar. I also prefer the cable to be looser than the disc to rub. Things will take time to settle, stretch and bed-in. Even then you'll probably find they need adjusting fairly regularly as your skewer loosens or something moves slightly. The tolerances are a lot tighter than a road caliper. I find I'm adjusting my MTB every few rides. Not everything is wonderful about the BB7, but the most important thing is definitely there. When you need to stop fast, it won't let you down in any weather (once bedded in).Jacobite wrote:But when you try to reduce the cable slack to improve lever reaction, the pads will move and start rubbing? Catch 22.
Postby Rek » Sun Sep 05, 2010 11:12 am
Postby Nobody » Sun Sep 05, 2010 3:22 pm
Does Shimano STI have a barrel adjuster? My Cane Creek V brake drop bar levers don't.Rek wrote:Take up the cable slack with the barrel adjuster...
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