Vintage, yesteryear and retro biking
Yeah, and how many people have a cotter-pin press handy? If anyone sends me one as a gift, I'll love them forever.[/quote]
I have 2 but your not getting one you can use things other than a pin press but I guess you didnt do a search. If you work on things you need to have the right tools, no cert 3 in maintenance for you with a hammer.......
It wasn't me, but I would have probably done the same given the opportunity!
I just upgraded mine with some new Busch + Muller LED dynamo lights powered by the original Sturmey Archer AG dynohub. Stoked with the improvement, especially considering they are being underdriven as the old SA dynohubs only put out about 2w as opposed to the standard 3w the lights are meant to run on.
More info on my blog http://smutpedaller.blogspot.com/2010/0 ... grade.html
Hey! Who you calling Random?
Iv'e been called many names before but this one is a first. You really are in another zone when your rindin' Jonathon. I also saw you yesterday going down the hill (Redfern st) onto young st. Go the twenty x2
Andy aka Random Guy
Fight till the end n never give up. Cadel Evans 2012
If you like Raleigh Twenties, on my website I've produced a 2011 Calendar. 2011 - High-quality - 2011 - Low-quality. It's a PDF file you can print it either one-month to a page or two-months to a page.
Looking at grabbing this Shopper for Mothers Day next week. Its in quite good condition as is, but how easy would it be for a overhaul? Ill prob grab it tomorrow, so Ill have a week to do it in secrecy.
But what do you guys reckon?
Depends if you want to 'overhaul' or to 'upgrade'.
Overhauls are usually ok as the chrome and paintwork are good quality so they come up quite well with a good clean. Here is a before and after of a twenty overhaul:
The tyres and brake cables are the only new parts and I used another set of wheels that were a bit less rusty.
Upgrading is a different story - changing wheels, cranksets, BB, stems etc is not straightforward due to the odd sizing.
Funny enough I was looking at that shopper you just posted about half an hour ago - I've got enough Twenty projects on the go at the moment so I'm not really interested in this one.. but good luck with the mothers day project - looks like fun!
Wow, that looks amazing, and inly from a clean! So it's just the standard cables? Road or MTB sort?
And this Shopper looks like its not suffering much from rust, unless the Coffee colour is hiding it all. From the looks of it, I'll be replacing the saddle, bar grips(or do they clean up ok?). Tyres and tubes may need to be, only if needed. May grease up headset and hubs if needed as well.
Well I'm certain I'll grab it, especially at that price.
The cables are just standard road cables. The original cable outers are ribbed lengthways but I just replaced them with standard white outers which are smooth.
The standard grips cleaned up ok but not perfect - they are blemished but nothing too dramatic. The shopper seems to have a different style of grip though, more of a standard shape that you could probably find fairly easily on ebay. My Twenty has a different shape and I couldn't find anything similar so I stuck with the original.
The Shopper doesn't look like it's too rusty and the wheels look ok too. The front rack looks beyond a cleanup though and you'll probably find the rear rack won't come up perfectly either.
The stem and headset are a bit unusual compared to other bikes. Firstly to remove the stem you'll need to remove the front brakes. Because it is height-adjustable, Raleigh have fitted a wire inside the head tube which is held in by the brake bolt - this allows the stem to move up and down within a certain range but prevents it from coming out completely.
From memory there are no bearings at the top of the headset - there is a nylon bush in there, which is why the steering will not feel as smooth as a regular bike.
WARNING: The bearings at the bottom of the headtube (at the fork crown) are loose so as soon as you push the fork down to remove it you'll end up with ball bearings all over the floor. Be prepared!
To clean up the rust I was using Ranex rustbuster - got it from mitre 10. Small items like nuts and bolts were left to soak in an old cup. Larger items I used a toothbrush to apply the ranex and then let it sit for a little while. If the part was particularly rusty I would use a pot scourer or one of those kitchen scourers to help cut through the rust. Other items would clean up well enough just with a good rub with a cloth. Once the rust was gone I would clean up the part with water and if needed give it a polish with autosol.
The ranex bottle says to not to use it paintwork so I only used it on chrome or steel on the Twenty, as this was my first project. On a later project I tested ranex on a painted frame that had surface rust coming through and it did a great job without harming the paint - apply with a toothbrush, give it a few minutes to work in, give it a good rub with a cloth and the rust is gone. I tried to wash the residue off the paintwork as quickly as possible once I'd treated the whole frame to make sure it wasn't doing any damage and the whole frame came up very well. There are still the paint chips in the frame but no rust.
Make sure you wear gloves.
anyway, good luck and have fun with the shopper!
Just rode home with the Shopper. Pleasant ride with the Sturmy Archer working well enough. Front and rear racks will prob just get brown painted over as the rust is quite bad. Seat post and stem is in great condition with barely any rust, so a polish will set that right. Just the handle bars and front wheel have more rust, which I'll prob treat with vinegar and a polish.
Oh, and my model is the Twenty Two. Slightly bigger wheels, and frame.
Does an 8 speed chain cut to the right length fit/work? The current one is ok(just needs a clean and lube), but I've got a much newer chain.
Bugger! If I'd known it was a Twenty Two I probably would have grabbed it myself at that price! Good score for you.
Not sure about the chain though, I never replaced mine...
Make sure you post the 'after' photos!
Mum headed off to the dentist, and I was home for a couple hours by myself. Got everything cleaned up. Rear hub needs the cone tightened more, and waiting on a chain to arrive. Will have to go grab new grips though. Too filthy to get back to white.
Now the rust is quite bad on this rim. Any way to get rid of it? Im thinking, I should just mask off the brake surface and paint the rim silver.
Quite a big clean up job up here. Maybe I should just chuck on a new bar.
And this is the Sturmey Archer AW, dated 80 10, meaning its from October 1980?
ALso am having an issue with the rear brake. When I got it, it was quite stiff, and the fix was just loosening the barrel adjuster. Theres not much respringing from the brake, and it doesnt have much stopping power. Ill chuck on a set of older road pads, and replace cables to see if it helps.
looks like the chrome on the rims and bar are beyond salvation - you can have a go at cleaning them but it doesn't look good..
Yes. the 80 10 will be the date on the hub so the rest of the bike will be a similar vintage.
As for the brakes - the twenty's were renowned for poor braking especially with the chrome rims. You may need to pull the calipers apart and give them a good clean to loosen them up a little. also make sure the cables are running smoothly as that could be your other problem. Upgrading to better pads is the usual fix - Kool Stop Salmon is the usual recommendation but just recently I saw some other pads that were like a rubber and leather sandwich which were supposed to work well on chrome rims. Can't recall where I saw these though but if I come across them again I'll let you know.
So does your mum know or is it still a surprise?
Dad complained I bought home another bike later that Sunday. She didnt enquire anymore, and prob reckons its for me or my bro. Monday, my bro said she didnt go down to the garage at all. Today, Im pretty sure that she also didnt go down there. So hopefully it is.
Front caliper is working fine. Pads are stopping quite well, mainly due to the rust on the braking surface, so Ill leave it alone incase I make it worse. Will have a play with the rear calipers, and swap the cable. All will be done on Sat as I dont have time til then.
Temporary solution to rust, is paint. Ill sand off what I can, then give it a silver coat. The Coffee colour conveniently hides some rust spots on the frame. Ill track down some proper parts later down the track when there's time. Unless youve got some Twenty bars?
"Raincheater" Cantilever Blocks (for steel rims)
but my old school LBS has "no names" that look and work the same
The Fibrax version stopped the squealing on my stainless steel rims
let me help you prepare your ebay advert, ask me how
So, came home to find the Wiggle stuff came. Chain, and cables arrived, but the order was missing my bar tape(for the Cadex). My bro was working on his bike, so I brought out the Shopper and got to work. Racks were removed, and then painted up. Masked everything below the headset off, and painted as well.
Will let the bars dry more before I tighten the clamps. Did change the rear blocks to road ones, but that didnt improve anything. Looks like Ill have to grab those leather lined pads.Rear brake claipers got some Inox sprayed in, and it springs back so much better. So the new cable isnt gonna make up too much of a difference I think.
The bars under the grips were so nice. Chrome was all intact with no rust. However, the grips are like dead. So, Im thinking of just wrapping the bars with some bar tape for now.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: QuangVuong