What would people recommend as lubrication for the following areas for a road bike:
1. Head stem bearings.
2. Derailleur and brake pivot points.
3. Bottom bracket bearings.
4. Chain, chain-rings and casette.
5. Wheel hubs.
6. Quick release skewers.
7. Derailleur and brake cables.
What is your position on the use of lubrication and/or loctite on general threads around the bike?
Cheers!
DP
Lubrication
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- europa
- Posts: 7334
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Postby europa » Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:59 am
It is at this point of the discussion that I should remind the gentle reader of the forum's views about religious debate
Chain lube and cleaning has been done a few times on the forum mate, so a search will throw up some interesting reading and may go a long way towards explaining why some might choose not to post again.
I personally use Motorex Dry Lube. I've mistakenly called this a wet lube in the past (sorry for that) because it goes on wet, like an oil should, but then dries. In this case it dries slowly to leave a waxy lubricant on the chain. I tend to be of the 'more is better than not enough though you should aim for the right amount' type of lubricator, so my chains tend to get black very quickly as do the cogs, but there isn't much fling off and it seems to work well.
For all bearings, I just use grease. There's a thumping great big tin of general purpose automotive grease in the shed that I liberated from somewhere and use on anything I'm building out there. For working inside, I bought a tube of Motorex Bike Grease 2000, largely for the convenience of the tube, though I must confess to using it on 'important' bikes like the Jamis. It's a good, light grease but when all is said and done, the muck in the old tin is just as good in the real world. Every bolt on my bikes has the threads greased, as well as things like seat posts.
For light lubricating such as cables or pivots, I use Motorex Joker 440. It's a spray can, light oil that is brilliant and makes your cables run like silk. I know that Shimano say 'don't lubricate cables', but I was put onto this by an old school mechanic and have been converted.
Do NOT use WD40. It is a water dispersant and any lubricating function disappears very quickly as it evaporates leaving the metal unprotected. It's good in its place and I've used a lot of it, but don't use it as a lubricant and don't use it on you chains.
Why all the Motorex products? They are darned good products ... and freely available at the bike shops around my area. Were a different brand so popular, I might be using a different brand. But they are very good.
Richard
Chain lube and cleaning has been done a few times on the forum mate, so a search will throw up some interesting reading and may go a long way towards explaining why some might choose not to post again.
I personally use Motorex Dry Lube. I've mistakenly called this a wet lube in the past (sorry for that) because it goes on wet, like an oil should, but then dries. In this case it dries slowly to leave a waxy lubricant on the chain. I tend to be of the 'more is better than not enough though you should aim for the right amount' type of lubricator, so my chains tend to get black very quickly as do the cogs, but there isn't much fling off and it seems to work well.
For all bearings, I just use grease. There's a thumping great big tin of general purpose automotive grease in the shed that I liberated from somewhere and use on anything I'm building out there. For working inside, I bought a tube of Motorex Bike Grease 2000, largely for the convenience of the tube, though I must confess to using it on 'important' bikes like the Jamis. It's a good, light grease but when all is said and done, the muck in the old tin is just as good in the real world. Every bolt on my bikes has the threads greased, as well as things like seat posts.
For light lubricating such as cables or pivots, I use Motorex Joker 440. It's a spray can, light oil that is brilliant and makes your cables run like silk. I know that Shimano say 'don't lubricate cables', but I was put onto this by an old school mechanic and have been converted.
Do NOT use WD40. It is a water dispersant and any lubricating function disappears very quickly as it evaporates leaving the metal unprotected. It's good in its place and I've used a lot of it, but don't use it as a lubricant and don't use it on you chains.
Why all the Motorex products? They are darned good products ... and freely available at the bike shops around my area. Were a different brand so popular, I might be using a different brand. But they are very good.
Richard
Last edited by europa on Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
- toolonglegs
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Re: Lubrication
Postby toolonglegs » Tue Nov 27, 2007 7:59 am
1. Head stem bearings....synthetic grease if they aren't sealed
2. Derailleur and brake pivot points....synthetic grease
3. Bottom bracket bearings....mine are sealed
4. Chain, chain-rings and casette....white lightning (teflon)
5. Wheel hubs.....synthetic grease if they aren't sealed
6. Quick release skewers....nothing
7. Derailleur and brake cables....nothing
I lube things if they need be,but most of my bearing are sealed.
I loctite my bb on my rotor cranks,grease on all others.Loctite the spokes on my Ksyriums.Loctite disc bolts.Not much else.
2. Derailleur and brake pivot points....synthetic grease
3. Bottom bracket bearings....mine are sealed
4. Chain, chain-rings and casette....white lightning (teflon)
5. Wheel hubs.....synthetic grease if they aren't sealed
6. Quick release skewers....nothing
7. Derailleur and brake cables....nothing
I lube things if they need be,but most of my bearing are sealed.
I loctite my bb on my rotor cranks,grease on all others.Loctite the spokes on my Ksyriums.Loctite disc bolts.Not much else.
- Kid_Carbine
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- Location: Southern Tablelands N.S.W.
Re: Lubrication
Postby Kid_Carbine » Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:01 am
I once used Campagnolo grease on all bearings but it eventually dries out & leaves me annoyed & disapointed, so I have reviewed the situation & I now use a Marine grease these days.
Shell Nautilus comes in a tub that's big enough to service a whole fleet of bikes for years for around $10 or so. It is a light & relatively thin grease, so drag is low, yet the label says it's OK for wheel bearings. Unlike regular automotive grease it does not mix with water, or emusify, so if you do get water into your non sealed hubs, it doesn't become a permanant part of your lubricant.
So it's priced right, performs right & is featured right, but you might need to order it in unless you live near the coast as it seems not to be a big seller away from the water.
Castrol marine grease is good too, but I think that it is a tiny bit thicker. This should be readily available from places like Supercheap outlets. Both of these [& others?] are designed to provide lubrication while underwater if need be, not that I ride there much, but that can only be a good thing.
1. Head stem bearings. ................................. Marine Grease
2. Derailleur and brake pivot points. .............. Marine grease on accessable pivots, Teflon Spray on points that can't be dismantled & lubricated.
3. Bottom bracket bearings. .......................... Marine Grease
4. Chain, chain-rings and casette. ..................Teflon Spray
5. Wheel hubs. .............................................. Marine Grease
6. Quick release skewers. ............................. Nothing, or perhaps a light smear of grease on the shaft to protect from rusting.
7. Derailleur and brake cables. ..................... Teflon Spray for non Nylon lined types or even these if they do not slide smoothly.
Shell Nautilus comes in a tub that's big enough to service a whole fleet of bikes for years for around $10 or so. It is a light & relatively thin grease, so drag is low, yet the label says it's OK for wheel bearings. Unlike regular automotive grease it does not mix with water, or emusify, so if you do get water into your non sealed hubs, it doesn't become a permanant part of your lubricant.
So it's priced right, performs right & is featured right, but you might need to order it in unless you live near the coast as it seems not to be a big seller away from the water.
Castrol marine grease is good too, but I think that it is a tiny bit thicker. This should be readily available from places like Supercheap outlets. Both of these [& others?] are designed to provide lubrication while underwater if need be, not that I ride there much, but that can only be a good thing.
1. Head stem bearings. ................................. Marine Grease
2. Derailleur and brake pivot points. .............. Marine grease on accessable pivots, Teflon Spray on points that can't be dismantled & lubricated.
3. Bottom bracket bearings. .......................... Marine Grease
4. Chain, chain-rings and casette. ..................Teflon Spray
5. Wheel hubs. .............................................. Marine Grease
6. Quick release skewers. ............................. Nothing, or perhaps a light smear of grease on the shaft to protect from rusting.
7. Derailleur and brake cables. ..................... Teflon Spray for non Nylon lined types or even these if they do not slide smoothly.
Last edited by Kid_Carbine on Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Carbine & SJH cycles, & Quicksilver BMX
Now that's AUSTRALIAN to the core.
Now that's AUSTRALIAN to the core.
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Postby darkpromenade » Tue Nov 27, 2007 11:29 am
Many thanks to everyone. Exactly the information/opinions I was looking for. If anyone has any other suggestions, keep them coming.
Cheers
DP
Cheers
DP
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- Location: Sydney
Re: Lubrication
Postby artemidorus » Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:40 pm
Headset -nothing if sealed, any grease if traditional.
Derailleur and brake pivot - nothing
BB-nothing unless you've got a really old one or a DA Octalink, in which case any grease.
Chainrings and cassette: nothing.
Chain - Prolink
Hubs nothing if cartridge, any grease otherwise.
Skewers nothing.
Cables nothing.
Derailleur and brake pivot - nothing
BB-nothing unless you've got a really old one or a DA Octalink, in which case any grease.
Chainrings and cassette: nothing.
Chain - Prolink
Hubs nothing if cartridge, any grease otherwise.
Skewers nothing.
Cables nothing.
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