Service intervals
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Service intervals
Postby Deanj » Mon Dec 31, 2007 8:40 pm
- sogood
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Postby sogood » Mon Dec 31, 2007 8:57 pm
When the chain looked and sounded dry.
When rusts appear.
When things no longer work smoothly.
Then for some, yearly rebuild can be a good idea.
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.
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Postby sogood » Mon Dec 31, 2007 9:21 pm
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.
- mikesbytes
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Postby mikesbytes » Mon Dec 31, 2007 9:34 pm
New chain when you change the rear tyre.
New cluster when you change the 2nd rear tyre
New chain rings when you change the 4th rear tyre
Disclaimer: I really have no idea, the above is a straight guess.
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Postby Kalgrm » Tue Jan 01, 2008 7:33 am
For me, the MTB gets a little love more often than the road bike. The chain gets a wipe after every dirt ride, as do the stanchions of the fork and rear shock. The whole bike also gets a rinse with the garden hose if the ride has been dusty or muddy (followed by a chain lube). After about 4-6 rides, the drive train gets a lube anyway. I lube the stanchions with a spot of silicone grease to help keep the seal supple.
Every month or so, the chain and cassette comes off for a soaking in degreaser and a scrub, followed by a lube. The idler wheels on the rear derailleur get a clean at the sametime.
The Brooks saddle gets a reproofing every 8 -10 weeks or so. The wheels get a looking at, but rarely do they need a tuning (hand-built them myself ).
Aside from that, I don't do much else. I seem to upgrade before things get a chance to wear out ..... I have worn out cassettes and chains, but that takes about a year with my riding. I also wore out the middle chain ring on the MTB, but replaced the whole crankset when I built the Epic recently.
On the road bike (recumbent), the chain gets a wipe and lube every week or so (15 -20 rides) and gets a thorough cleaning every month or so. The cable brakes get an adjustment roughly monthly. The tyres get inspected daily for bad cuts or embedded glass.
Now that I've got new wheels on the 'bent, I'm going to need to keep an eye on the wheel bearing cones too (had cartridge bearings previously). I guess I'll check them when I do the chain lubes.
Cheers,
Graeme
---------------------
Music was better when ugly people were allowed to make it ....
- nimm
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Postby nimm » Wed Jan 02, 2008 11:21 am
chain: after every wet ride - i avoid wet rides
otherwise i just keep my eye on it and when it's dirty or a bit dry.
tyres: check them over before rides.
Everything else the lbs has been taking care of, although I plan to do more of it in the future.
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Postby inaminit » Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:07 pm
08 Avanti Quantum Team
LeMond Tourmalet
Giant Kronos
Trek 4300 MTB
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Postby europa » Wed Jan 02, 2008 2:55 pm
After rain or before a long ride I'll oil the chain. Otherwise, see above.
Richard
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Postby 20 inch wheels » Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:25 pm
There is a lesson there.
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Postby sogood » Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:39 pm
If it's a road bike, that's not much mileage out of a chain.20 inch wheels wrote:4000km before I bothered to check for chain wear. By then chain, cluster and chainring needed replacing.
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.
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Postby 20 inch wheels » Thu Jan 03, 2008 7:42 pm
Bit of a surprise to me too. A folder, used mostly used on sealed roads but every ride starts and ends with a dirt road. Guess I'm picking up dirt on the chain regularly and it is working as an abrasive.sogood wrote: If it's a road bike, that's not much mileage out of a chain.
As a commuter I also ride in all weathers.
Lesson is, perhaps I should pay more attention to cleaning, lubrication and maintenance.
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Postby 20 inch wheels » Sat Jan 05, 2008 2:21 pm
I asked in the lbs about checking for chain wear. They didn't sell me a guage but recommended I measure the chain with a ruler. Sheldon Brown I think makes the same recommendation.j.r.hawkins wrote:Maybe buy a Park go/nogo chainwear gauge?
A little bit more fiddly, but works all the same I guess.
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Postby Deanj » Sat Jan 05, 2008 2:35 pm
Postby Hawkeye » Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:28 pm
The Park Tools go/no go chainwear indicator was twenty bucks and some change off eBay, I seem to recall.
It has two sides. At 0.75, if you change the chain straight away you can usually save the cassette. However, if you wait until your chain gets to 1.0 (percent, I think) you cassette will need replacing as well, otherwise the new chain will be incompatible and skip under load and/or self-destruct pretty fast.
This was the situation I found myself in using the eyeball and ruler method. If I'd had the Park indicator then it would have more than paid for itself immediately.
... Just a thought.
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