Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
18 posts • Page 1 of 1
Geez things have changed since I last bought a bike!!!! god damn
Avanti Ventura (Limited release in October 2006)
Frame 6061 Alloy frame
Fork RST Gila T7 100mm Travel
Front Derailleur Shimano Alivio
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore 9spd
Brake Levers Tektro Auriga Comp Hydraulic Disc
Shifters Shimano SLM410 24spd
Crankset Truvativ X-Flow 3.0 Power Spline, 22-32-42T
Brakes Tektro Auriga Comp Hydraulic Disc
Hubs Alloy Disc Front, Shimano M-475 alloy Disc Rear
Cassette Shimano CS-HG50 11-30T 8spd
Handlebar Alloy Riser
Grips Avanti Dual Density
Handlebar Stem Alloy Ahead
Pedals Resin Platform Pedal
Rims/Wheelset Weinmann Disc Taurus 2000 Double Wall Black
Spokes Stainless Steel
Tyres Kenda Kinetics 26 x 2.10
Saddle Avanti Dual Density Sport
Seat Post Alloy 27.2mm Micro Adjust
Bottom Bracket Truvativ Power Spline
Headset Cartridge Ahead 1-1/8"
Chain KMC IG51
Pump, bag, 2 tubes, small toolset, tyre levers, 2xslick road tyres
$750 all inclusive
Purpose: mainly recreational riding on roads and parks (hence, the slicks)... Would like to entertain some offroad stuff (nothing too serious) in the future.
If you came here earlier, someone sensible here would have turned you to a Giant steel touring bike or OCR road bike...
Bianchi, Ridley, Montague, GT, Garmin and All things Apple
Not to mention a lightweight stealth racer
(you need to go to bicyclewa's website to understand that one )
But you lot, stop hijacking the lad's thread ... especially seeing you're picking on me in the process
Sadly Nick, I can't help you with your choice because I don't know mtbs. Now, if you'd wanted a steel framed touring bike ...
In general, only buy an mtb if you want to ride it off road, which you do, or are only doing relatively short distances on the road - they are as efficient on the road as my tourer is on a fire trail.
Avanti are a good brand with large enough sales to offer good bang for your buck, so if the bike suits you, I suspect you're doing fairly well ... with the normal proviso about shopping around. There are still some 2006 bikes around and at least one shop in Adelaide was having a big 2006 clearance last weekend so bargains can still be had (it's the best thing about model changeover time).
sure you don't want a steel framed tourer?
Well, I think it's a bit too late. By his title, Nick has already bought, so there really weren't too much point in talking about suitability and price point. He just have to go out and ride it to prove he has made the right choice, and only he can tell. Nuff said...
Bianchi, Ridley, Montague, GT, Garmin and All things Apple
Well, that's all gibberish to me. I am no expert, but if you feel comfortable with your purchase, then that's the main thing. Personally, there is more to a bike than just the specs. It's how comfortable you feel on it. Whether or not it's psychological and it's the brand that adds to this sense of comfort, is beyond me. I just think if it feels right, then go for it!
Some real pertinent points guys and thankyou for the feedback. I haven't been riding let alone maintaining these machines for many years now and things have really changed. Have made a deposit on an off the shelf MTB that:
1) I feel has enough value for the money in terms of specs
2) I liked the best in the test rides which included a Giant Yukon, Malvern Star something or other.
I was in two minds about the MTB relative to how much road/off-road use I intend to do.
Truthfully I have been searching some of these threads as a Guest for some time now and have understood there are better suited bikes for road use. I am getting into this for fitness reasons, not to go on touring rides (you will notice another thread where I purchased a heart monitor before a trip computer - just want to keep the heart rate up). With fitness you always need that element of fun for motivation and that is where I think the off road stuff might help to mix it up a bit.
Once the skills both in riding, maintenance and overall understanding increase I will certainly be very interested in the comments made about building 3-4 bikes for the price I am paying. Regarding off the shelf prices, nothing has come close under $900.
Thanks again and look forward to learning more here, Nick
I bought a mountain bike for the same reasons and i commute to work a lot. I also ride on the road on the weekends and i have found it most satisfactory. I feel MTB's are more versatile in the sense of being able to ride up and down footpaths and over dodgy parts in the road (holes, bumps etc.).
I am probably going to get a pair of thinner, slicker tyres soon, so i can go faster!
I love my new bike !!!!!
I have owned it for 3 days going on 4 and have taken it through parts of a National Park (this was a slight detour on the way home from the bike shop on saturday), slapped road tyres on and hooned down the M5 towards Camden Valley Way and back...
I found myself smiling when taking it across rough terrains but also loved the challenge of the road ride....
Hah ya silly bugga. You're had it now. Once you start taking detours, you are in deep trouble.
Financial oblivion, here you come ... but at least you'll have all those lovely bikes to play with after the wife leaves you
Seriously, it's good to hear love stories
G'Day Nick, welcome to the world of fat, use 'em anywhere and always grin You might not go as fast, but you won't be suffering from back pain either. (until you buy the farm that is) The spec sheet looks fine for the price, but keep an eye on the 475 hubs, they don't like getting wet.
Two sets of tyres is the way to go, I lashed out and got another set of wheels with identical cluster and rotors, just so's the change over is a bit quicker, but I got bitten by the upgrade bug years back
Go forth brother, have fun. Life's too short to argue details.
(Boy, the skinny types here will crucify me for this. )
Following Shaun's warning about the 475 hubs and his suggestion for two sets of wheels, get the second set with a more serious hub and use that set for offroad, keeping the stock set for road riding (with the slicks). If you find yourself upgrading your bike down the track, the new wheels can also be used with that so it's not as though it's money lost.
I must have my road bike collection nearly settled because I'm starting to think of doing up an ancient mtb - but anyone who encourages me will find himself being frowned at
Is ones collection ever really complete?
Richard nailed it in one, the 475s with Mavic 139 rims OEM are a little fragile for my gumby off road style, but well suited to road use with sorta slicks, Conti Town & Country 1.9s.
My offroad wheels run Sunn Rhyno Lites on Shimano XT hubs with DB Sapim spokes.
Thinking of a roadie sometime this year, any suggestions anyone?
Not an all out race bike but similar, definitely triple chainrings.
Caliper brakes, or linear pulls (V brake)?
As I've posted elsewhere, I haven't touched drop bars since friction shifters on the downtube.
Edit to add... Still not gonna be wearing lycra
I believe you got value for money i did a look up of your bike. To me what you have basicly got is, an Avanti BLACKTHUNDER Frame with with most of the components that come off the Avanti RIDGE RIDER. Now the RIDGE RIDER is $850 but the BLACKTHUNDER is $420(but remember this has lesser components). Some how i still think you did good.
BCC give us some more bikeways fore safe travel!!!!
Upgrade the NCL now QR!!!!!!
My views do not represent any organisation I may be apart of unless otherwise stated
Well since my last post I finally got off my bike to post a thankyou up. Seriously I go to bed at night thinking where will I go tomorrow.
For when I am not feeling adventurous or at the end of a longer ride I have a set track around my neighbourhood which includes road, dirt, jumps and lots of eye candy - chicks dig guys on bikes that use them for exercise reasons (I guess being crouched over a bit hides the beer gut which I might add is flattening out a bit).
Yesterday I needed an 8mm allen key to tighten the right pedal to what I think is the hub. The screw keeps coming loose and the cogs move laterally causing the chain to rub on the shifter. Well, did I choose to drive the car 15kms to the hardware? No, I jumped on the bike and rode there and back.
Just getting a click in the hub at about 3 o'clock (on the right) under load. Something that I can feel through the bike ... Is this a result of tightening that screw tooooo much?
About the advice on the hubs getting wet, are we talking rain wet or going through mud puddles and imersing them in water wet?
Blueish grease on the front forks, is that normal? Do you need to top this up? if so, How often normally?
I will be taking into the shop for its monthly tune up as advised when I bought it (free of course).
ps: leaving work early today coz no one around, hmmmmm, where will I go today?
G'Day again Nick.
OK the 475 hubs, if they just get rain, give them a spin when dry and feel for roughness, if you've been mudding or river crossing, strip and repack NOW, it's not a big job, check http://www.shimano.com you should be able to find a guide there.
The 8mm allen key business... I'm guessing that you needed to tighten the crank arm to the bottom bracket, its quite possible that the clicking is coming from that area (or many others ) Don't forget to use grease as appropriate.
Apart from that, make a note of any dramas, worries or questions and present a list to the mechanic when you take your girl in for a service.
18 posts • Page 1 of 1
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