Oops, that should read CroMo 4130 Repco Superlite truing stand.
It might not be flash but it cost $0 and works!
I know its a bit early, but with the tree in the background, Merry Christmas everyone!
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Repco Appreciation Society
Here's my Repco Superlite.
Oops, that should read CroMo 4130 Repco Superlite truing stand. It might not be flash but it cost $0 and works! I know its a bit early, but with the tree in the background, Merry Christmas everyone! Last edited by Minority on Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
Clever peice of MacGyvering there Minority, but couldn't you find a KMarter for it?
Shaun ...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
It's not quite as sacrilegious as it might seem at first glance.
The frame was damaged and a bulk rubbish pick-up that I got for some of the components. When I was cutting up the frame for disposal I decided to put it to some good use.
Very clever. Atleast you saved nearly all of the scrap bike you got.
Waste not want not. Mitch. SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKYS. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS.
Until next time...
that is a bloody good idea, when you consider what a truing jig is worth, how do you actually mount the points to align the actual rim, any close up pics?
Cheers SP
Once again basic but cheap, a couple of small spring clamps from Bunnings, infinitely adjustable, I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it.
The other option (which I used for my front wheel Jig, a front fork) is to drill throughthe fork/stay and screw in a self-tapper. The self tapping screw can be screwed in or out for positioning and the brake mounting hole used for centre/dish checking.
Here are the pics
Self tapping screws through the fork for my front wheel jig. 
And mini spring clamps for the rear wheel jig (one at the side for horizontal truing, one underneath for vertical truing(roundness)) 
I like your thinking. It is a very useful concept.
So basically you screw the screws in and out or move the spring clips up and down? How did you come up with that idea? Mitch. SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKYS. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS.
Until next time...
Hmmm... I've got an identical Repco Superlite (in one piece!) I am looking at off-loading here in Melbourne for some $$$. Anyone interested? Can post more specs if required...  God save the ABC & SBS.....
That'd ne a nice score Kukamunga, but the divorce'd cost me to much.
Shaun ...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
I've a # of 'retro' bikes I need to get ride of soon, as the 'hard rubbish' season is fast approaching, and I need some room!
I will try and get my ship together soon and start posting pics  God save the ABC & SBS.....
All,
I am about to join the ranks of the Repco Appreciation Society. I have done a deal that will get me a Superlite from sir31    I will pick it up tomorrow so am looking forward to seeing it. I will grease and lube it all to see how it runs and then I will start the restoration. (See Money pit for dollars  ). Here is the link for some pictures.
A couple of questions: 300 exage gear - what is it like? Would this gear and this superbe gear be suitable? Waiting expectantly for expert opinions 
Waz Wazza
 Mont Ventoux 2014 - Must train hard
I'm one of those weirdos who thinks that the basic 4130 frame is worth whatever you feel like putting on it.
The biggest weight penalty that you'll suffer with the Exage gear is in the wheels - they are heavy. Why not consider new gear - Sora or Tiagra for Shimano-philes, Mirage or Veloce for Campagnatics - have the rear stays reset to fit new wheels and go from there? Litespeed Classic - 3Al/2.5V titanium tube set, Record 9-speed groupset, Open Corsa Evo CX
Alchemy Diablo - Columbus Zonal tubing, Ultegra 9-speed groupset, UltraGatorskins Gitane Rocks T1 - U6 tubing, Deore/XT groupset, CrossMarks
LP,
My concern is not weight, it is to keep the bike somewhere near original with perhaps an upgrade using the same period gear, so I guess the real question should be, is the superbe gear from that era (I'd like gears on the handle bars though ) and would it be an upgrade on the exage gear?
Waz Wazza
Mont Ventoux 2014 - Must train hard
As soon as you bung the shifters on the bars, you blow away any chance of her being a period piece. There's nothing wrong with downtube shifters and the relatively low number of gears means you don't shift as often anyway. Not that there's anything wrong with modernising her either. I'm happy with either and went for a third option with my Europa (converted her to fixed gear). I do feel though that unless you lucked onto some early combination brake/shifter levers in good nick (I understand that most are knackered), you're better off putting a modern groupset on the frame or sticking with the original setup. Trying to do both runs the risk of creating something that doesn't know what it is. On the other hand, you're welcome to go out and prove me wrong ... and I'll be among those applauding if you do
Richard I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
If you want to stay reasonably true to period, then you should stick with the Exage gear - that's what they all wore.
As Richard says, STI shifters weren't around, so downtube shifters are the way to go. You should be able to get some Shimano 600 6/7 speed indexed shifters which would be an 'upgrade', and the Suntour XCM derailleurs / shifters were pretty good too. Litespeed Classic - 3Al/2.5V titanium tube set, Record 9-speed groupset, Open Corsa Evo CX
Alchemy Diablo - Columbus Zonal tubing, Ultegra 9-speed groupset, UltraGatorskins Gitane Rocks T1 - U6 tubing, Deore/XT groupset, CrossMarks
Well I have it 
All I have done this morning is replace the tyres. I was going to go for a quick spin however (  will put my son's wheels on) the wheels have some buckles so my learning curve starts now . I will need a couple of small tools from the LBS so a visit there a bit later today(Money Pit Thread).
Some details: Model: Repco Superlite Tech Frame: Unsure, CroMo - will contact original LBS for details (I hope) Derail, cranks, brakes: 300ex Exage Chain Rings: 52/40 Biospace Shifters: SIS indexed Handle Bars: Sinlung HL Quill: Sahae Front Hub: Exage HB-RM50 Rear Hub: Exage Rims: Araya Comments on the gear are welcome. Waz Wazza
Mont Ventoux 2014 - Must train hard
Hi Wazza,
From the photo, it looks to be in pretty good condition. Superlites were such good bikes. Truing the wheels really isn't too hard. The LBS should be able to get you on the right track by showing you how to get started then it's just a matter of having a go and taking it slow. My best tip is to find a time when you know you won't be disturbed and there is no time limits. I can never get my wheels absolutely perfect but I can get them running pretty true without too much stress. Alot has been said over the years about bioplace chainrings and their worth but I have found that they still keep the wheels turning around and that's all they are required to do. The components look right for the bike. I bet you get many km's of great cycling from your new bike - congratulations.
Have just picked myself up another Superlite (model and color as per 'truing stand' above) but this one is in original, almost as new, very good condition, and in my size!
 There are no re-welded drive side chainstay/ rear dropout union repairs (as per truing stand above and my first Superlite). Was this a common problem with this model frame? What year is this model?
Also picked up a pair of original (?) Shimano 600 derailleurs and Tourney centre-pull brakes and parts in good condition (nice 'scrollwork' on rear derailleur) Wasn't someone on these forums after some of these recently?God save the ABC & SBS.....
Hi, this is my Repco Nishiki Tri A.
I brought this bike new about 20years ago and very soon I'm going to modernize her to a 10 speed. 
As is 10sp rear cluster ? I presume then you are going to use STI levers ? Or are you going Campag ? What equipment level and brands are you going to use ? (Wheels, shifters, clusters etc) ? Will look good.
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