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I know I may be shot down in flames for what I'm about to ask!
I have a Norco Nitro, mainly used for commuting up to now, I have bought a road bike for cycling duirng the great weather here in Perth on tarmc! I have on the Norco Specialized Crossroads and am thinking of changing tyres now I have a "can't get dirty bike" to ride!
Majority of my riding is commuting but I do occassionally get out with the kids on the dirt trails and want to compete in The Dwellingup 100 later this year (http://www.dwellingup100.com.au), need to train on dirt this time (2009 I didn't ... oww)! ... I know going for a middle of the road tyre has pro and cons either way ... but what tyre could anyone suggest for MTB & commuting or am I dreaming?
You could either get a Schwalbe Big Apple, or if you are wealthy, get a close spaced small block knob tread like a Kenda Small Block Eight. I think any small block MTB tyre on the road will be an expensive exercise as the knobs should wear down fairly fast commuting. I'd tend toward the Big Apples and be more careful off road.
Thanks Nobody .... I think the Big Apples are a bit too "slick", currently I have the Specialized Crossroad on it, mainly rubber on the road until you hit dirt or take some pressure out! I take your point about wearing my nobbly bits down on the road (ouch!)
Inverted tread designs should work to some degree although I haven't tried them. Looks like you may have answered your own question. But it has a minimum tyre pressure of 70psi. Might not work well < 30 psi. What size are they?
You could go Maxxis CrossMarks, which are a popular choice for front and rear for the XC racer set who are really into low rolling resistance, or even Maxxis Larsens. Maxxis rubber seems to be on the softer side so as to deliver better grip on the dirt, but if you go wire bead I believe the rubber is a firmer rating which will give you better wear on the road.
On my commuter while I was waiting for the new rear 700c commuting wheel to get built (I have two wheelsets for this bike) I was using Michelin XCR Dry 2's which seem to go quite well on and off road. They're a bit sketchier than I prefer on the dirt, but it's a matter of riding to the conditions (including condition of your tyres) and they roll and wear OK on the road. Mine are UST and are run without tubes.
Did a 4 hour trainign ride with them on Sunday and they were fine, I just didn't push it hard in the turns and braked a bit earlier setting up for corner entry.
If you want slick-type rubber for street use I would not recommend invert tread tyres for mountain bike use on trails unless you are a reasonably expert rider. I was told by my LBS they'd be fine, but erm no, not really. Most mtb tyres have chunky side knobs for a reason... which I naturally had to learn the hard way. (Fortunately it was skin off only)
Your best and safest choice is to swap the tyres around between slicks and knobblies. With a little practice it really is very quick. Good tyre levers help.
I've never had any trouble with serfas drifters offroad (inverted pattern). I've gotten around both Wingello and Manly dam numerous times with them, but bearing in mind that I was riding alone and had to be conservative about accidents - so wasn't asking for warp speed cornering. They clearly don't like chunky gravel, but they outgrip knobbies on bare stone obstacles, and seem to be pretty good with wet roots.
I don't think any tire beats them on wet tar - period. They'll run anywhere in the range of 65 to 30 psi, and they don't puncture, and they take forever to wear out. I think the front will perish before it wears out.
Serfas Drifters... yep, they're the ones.
Back when I tried them the Allambie downhill section along Southern Cross Drive was erosion central and you had to pick your lines with more skill than I possessed at the time. Not nearly so challenging now. Whether that's good or bad is in the eye of the beholder I suppose. I liked it before the remediation works, but the erosion and drainage issues meant it was unsustainable, unfortunately,
My affair with the Drifters ended in tears one day when I heard a loud "bang" from the depths of the garage. An inspection revealed a burst sidewall and some funny discolouration on the sidewalls of both tyres. The bike shop dude blanched when he saw it and I got replacements of something else very promptly.
Just because you can get around Manly Dam with them (and kudos to you by the way for doing so) doesn't mean it is a wise thing to do. Advertising the compound as "Super Hard 69 Durometer Compound for Enhanced Tire Wear" doesn't inspire confidence in their appropriateness for use in the dirt IMO.
Crossmarks roll brilliantly, but the size of gravel they use on the roads up here is exactly the same size as the gaps in the tread block, which means riding them on recently re-surfaced roads results in a steady shower of gravel to the face. I can't comment on wear though - haven't ridden far enough on 'em.
So we get the leaders we deserve and we elect, we get the companies and the products that we ask for, right? And we have to ask for different things. – Paul Gilding
but really, that's rubbish. We get none of it because the choices are illusory.
Continental (Supersonic) Race Kings (preferably tubeless with Stand's no flats). These tyres are very suitable for your intentions. Cheers!
I've had the exact same problem with CrossMarks off-road. +1 for using them as an all-rounder tyre though.
Which reminds me that I need a new front.
2012 Giant Trance X0
2011 GT Zaskar Carbon
2010 Malvern Star Oppy A4
I Think that a Schwalbe <insert whatever tyre is wanted here> will be great for commuting, but I wouldn't get one that would do dwellingup as well. I did the 40 last year on an ignitor front and a Larsen TT rear, and if I had had any less grip I would have been screwed. The red pea gravel is quite unique, I haven't heard of many tires better than the maxxis for WA conditions.
Sent from the future.
Tis a hard call but as long as you realise the compromises that come with a compromise tyre...
I've just switched from a Schwalbe Marathon 26x1.5 to a Schwalbe Landcruiser 26x1.95 because of the winter trails getting a bit soft around here. The solid centre line and a high crown means they roll well on the hard ground and the luggy sides give good grip on the softer soil and granitic sand trail corners. Some riding buddies and I did a group buy on them from Wiggle...mainly because they were $13.25 ea. To find they are rather good for our conditions was a bonus!
Ours is not to reason why...merely to point and giggle
I have used the Specialized Crossroads before and they were quite simply the worst tyre I have ever had on a bike for any purpose.
Maxxis Orriflame or any similar semi slick like the Schwalbe Furious Freds will work OK as a compromise. Just don't corner on the knobs on pavement and don't expect great off road performance either. They do roll fast though.
I have Kenda Small Block 8's on my 29'er and they work OK on bitumen too, buzz like bees though above about 20km/hr.
Kenda Smallblock 8s are designed for onroad or off and I have had one on the front for 5000ks mostly on road. Have also used Larsen TTs but they drift too much when you have them on both ends. Also good wear from the Larsen. Went tubeless on the front about 6 months ago and left the back Larsen TT tubed to see how I went for punctures. Guess what - nil punctures either end even though the Larsen is a folding race tyre.
I,ve been using 32C Schwalbe Sammy Slick's that are light weight cyclocross folding tires with great results. I ride down Port Waikfield Rd in S.A and there's no worse road side crap to ride over than this commute.
silly question but are you wanting to stick with the same tyres ?
maybe buy a set of road focused tyres and do a quick swap of your MTB tyres
ie run two sets
one specifically for MTBing and the other for road use
just an idea because aside from the inconvenience thats what I do because I usually have time inbetween to know if I am going MTBing or just going for a ride on the road
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