Enlighten Me On Bike Lights

[il padrone]

The picture above, with the halo having an extremely low colour -temperature, is indicative a sub-optimum voltage, not light intensity.

The source of those photos - Peter White's lighting pages

Another article by Peter White on head-lights

And remember also that we don't want to be focusing light above the road surface; only onto the road itself. The reason for this is simple. The rider is providing the power for the light, and the rider doesn't care about lighting up the tree branches and sky overhead. And he doesn't want to focus light into the eyes of oncoming drivers. He wants the equivalent of the low beams in an automobile, lots of light on the road, and only spill light above the road, just enough so that oncoming drivers see that the cyclist is there. So as the light is projected forward, there ought to be a sharp cutoff between the bright light below the horizon, and very little light above the horizon.

As for the output comparison between halogen and LED

The newest LED headlights not only appear to be brighter, they actually do put more light onto the road. The Inoled Extreme, Lumotec IQ Fly, Supervova E3 and Schmidt Edelux headlights are not only brighter, but also have larger beams. The power output from the dynohub is the same, but these lights are able to convert more of that electrical energy into light, and less into heat. So they are more efficient, and therefore brighter.

But total output alone isn't what will help you see further down the road at high speed. The distribution of light is extremely important as well. The brightest light isn't necessarily the one that will enable you to descend that steep hill the fastest.

[The Walrus]

Ordered my Strada Exposure light today. They've just dropped their imported prices to compete with online UK stores, so got it for a good price from an Aussie retailer...can't wait as the potholes are becoming a real hazard.

[Krank]

where did you buy this unit Walrus?

besides price, why did you choose this model over the rest?

Krank

[The Walrus]

Hi Krank

I got it through Melbourne company TrailMix for $300

I researched a lot of lights and chose the Exposure brand because it suits my preferences. I want something self contained that doesn't have a separate battery and is easily removed from the mount. I also liked that it has a decent 2 year warranty and appears to be well made. We all have different needs and desires and this light design stood out as it suits mine and that is why I chose it.

Ay Ups are clearly great (along with Dinotte, Nitelights, Niteflux etc etc) but the way the Ay Ups fit to the bars didn't do it for me, these other brands also have cables and an external battery, which all seemed to much hassle for me...each to their own!

[Krank]

thanks walrus.

i like your thinking and i agree with the battery stuff.

i ilike the exposure brand, and i'm committed to this brand now.

krank

[ColinOldnCranky]

colin.

what brand of light do u use?

krank

My choice reflects my particular needs which are not the same as yours. Though mine would be more than adequate for many bicyclists.

Off hand I can't tell you the brand, except that the one I use is an LED head-band job using a single LED bought from Katmandu on one of their 70% off sales (retailed normally for $80). It also has a simple wide/narrow beam adjustment which is useful for my mode but probably not of any use to bicyclists. I have a backup single-led job I bought from JayCar for around $55 that is not so good but certainly adequate for my needs. Both are good for speeds well in excess of what I can do.

Without getting to whether or when four and six-set lighting clusters are excessive or essential, many on this forum would get more benefit the big bucks units.

My past top-of-the-line (decades ago) Halo light was retired years ago.

[The Walrus]

thanks walrus.

i like your thinking and i agree with the battery stuff.

i ilike the exposure brand, and i'm committed to this brand now.

krank

Don't let me persuade you, decide for yourself as its a personal choice based on personal needs. Mine should arrive next week so I'll happily give you some feedback after I've used it.

I realize that there is much talk about how much brightness you 'actually' need but on the way home last night I hit a massive unsighted pot hole and just about stayed on the bike, so even though the road has some lighting I still want to actually see what the hell is in front of me, but I'll be aiming the light at the road not straight ahead.

[Pushy]

and the arms race continues
new at DX

[Kalgrm]

and the arms race continues
new at DX

That's going to be an absolute nightmare to ride into on a bike path. Four Crees, each bright enough to be a light in their own right, put through a diffuser lens to spread the light randomly in all directions? I reckon anybody who buys that light is going to put themselves and others in danger by blinding all oncoming tragic.

Cheers,
Graeme

[Mulger bill]

It'd make a great bush light on the bars tho'. Dropbears wouldn't be game and spider webs would melt before you got to them.

[Pushy]

It'd make a great bush light on the bars tho'. Dropbears wouldn't be game and spider webs would melt before you got to them.

Looking for a bush Light?
Modify two of these. Mine are in transit as we speak (kidding).

[Aushiker]

It'd make a great bush light on the bars tho'. Dropbears wouldn't be game and spider webs would melt before you got to them.

Looking for a bush Light?
Modify two of these. Mine are in transit as we speak (kidding).

Maybe it would make a good daytime flashing light?

Andrew

[Rhubarb]

and the arms race continues
new at DX

That's going to be an absolute nightmare to ride into on a bike path. Four Crees, each bright enough to be a light in their own right, put through a diffuser lens to spread the light randomly in all directions? I reckon anybody who buys that light is going to put themselves and others in danger by blinding all oncoming tragic.

Cheers,
Graeme

Maybe .. maybe not. It will depend a lot on the focus of the beam etc. but looking at the shallow lens shape ... I'm back thinking maybe ...

[Aushiker]

Hi

Just thought I would share this one minute video that I recorded on my Friday night commute. It shows the DiNotte 400L in use in medium mode (~ 200 lumens). It is mounted on the handlebars and the camera, a Contour HD1080P is helment mounted.

Regards
Andrew

[Krank]

MaxxD Mk4 2012 vs Six Pack 2013 vs Maxx-D Front Light Mk5 2013

which one would be better for my application - night riding on highways in regional NT without any street lights at all??


Krank

[greyhoundtom]

2000 lumins for the 6 pack against 1280 lumins for the MK 4 and 1600 lumins for the MK 5

Similar in price.

With no street lighting brighter has to be better.

[il padrone]

With no street lighting brighter has to be better.

With no street lighting your lights stand out much more to other traffic..... and they light the road surface much more effectively.

I am assuming these NT highways are sealed roads

How far down the road do you really need to see? 200m or 1.5kms? How many lumens do you really need? I'm more than happy to ride dark country roads with my 370 lumens Supernova E3. They light the road very well for 50-70m and highlight objects for 200-300m away. On our Oppy ride, out past Barmah on a pitch black road I had a 'light' ahead of me that was visible for 10-15 mins. Turned out it was the chevron reflective sign at a T-junction..... my own lights reflecting back at me from 4-5kms distance . I have observed Cateye 5 led tail-lights flashing from a distance of 4-5 kms on a flat country road.

[Krank]

thanks boys.

i guess there ia also a weight penalty with the six pack??

Krank

[greyhoundtom]

6 pack.........362 g
MK5...........292 g