Front tyre recommendations
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Front tyre recommendations
Postby Deanj » Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:32 pm
- Kalgrm
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Postby Kalgrm » Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:48 pm
Trouble is, grippy and fast rolling and all conditions are nearly mutually exclusive. Tell us what's most important to you: then we have a chance of giving a sensible answer ....
Cheers,
Graeme
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Postby Aushiker » Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:54 pm
Picked up my XTC 2 today and was talking to Tim Bennett at the LBS about tyres. He said the same thing as Graeme. What do you want? Speed or Grip?
In terms of grip he felt I had made a good choice with my Kenda Blue Groove Stick E on the front for WA conditions. This was, BTW, Graeme's recommendation.
Regards
Andrew
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Postby Kalgrm » Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:58 pm
1/ Grip - very good in most conditions
2/ Moderate rolling resistance.
You don't want it because it is not tubeless-ready. It delaminates with sealant contact (apparently...)
Cheers,
Graeme
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Postby Deanj » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:13 pm
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Postby Aushiker » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:18 pm
I suggest you send Tim an email. He races and has just put new tubeless tyres on this wheels (man they are light) for a race in the eastern states and he was focusing on speed not grip.
He is a really nice guy. Their website is http://kalamundacycles.com.au/ and you can get his race history and Jo his wife history as well why you are about it.
Andrew
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Postby toolonglegs » Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:25 pm
I havent ridden my tubeless yet but love my none tubeless ones.3 of the guys at my LBS are testers for Australian MTB so should know there stuff and thats what they recommended.
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Postby Aushiker » Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:20 pm
Kenda are listing a tubeless version on their website.Kalgrm wrote:You don't want it because it is not tubeless-ready.
Andrew
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Postby Whitz End » Fri Feb 08, 2008 6:25 pm
I currently use a set of standard wire bead Larson TT 2.0" on both wheels but a wider 2.3" works really well...offering that extra cornering grip. Larsons are very light and really fast over gravel etc. Using one as a rear, you can do better as I have found a loss of traction every now and then but they go great.
Another option is to run the Larson on the front and a Crossmark on the back. Crossmark's have a near connected central tread pattern which is leathal on hardpack...really fast rolling...but these tend so suffer somewhat in wet and muddy conditions. That combo is very popular.
Another option if your wanting a more aggressive front tyre would be to run a Maxxis Ignitor. Ignitors, like the Larsons are awesome in all contitions but excell as a front tyre because of their aggressive tread. I felt this tyre and the Continetal Vertical were one in the same, although the Vertical was significantly heavier.
It all comes down to trial and error. What works for me or others may not work for you. Terrain, weather and even bike geometry and riding styles can effect how a tyre performs but you will soon see whats popular and what works.
All the above tyres are UST compatibe...not sure about the Vertical though...
Good luck!
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Postby toolonglegs » Fri Feb 08, 2008 8:12 pm
I use a Crossmark on the rear...rather have a bit more grip up front.But now running tubeless should be able to drop the pressures a bit as well.rider06 wrote:it really depends on the surfaces you are riding on which tyre will suit you best. i am currently using maxxis crossmark, sacrificing some grip for a bit more speed and weight saving.
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Postby toolonglegs » Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:21 pm
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Postby Whitz End » Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:25 pm
Ive been meaning to pull that ghetto tubeless conversion on my hardtail...weight saving really is negligable but just the whole idea of avoiding pinchflats as well as pin-prick punctures (as the latex on the inside of the tyre self-seals)...sounds cool!
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Postby toolonglegs » Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:30 pm
I like riding in the rain but dont like replacing clusters every 10 or so hours!.
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Postby toolonglegs » Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:50 pm
Probably 100-150 grams on the rear wheel as i ran down hill tube on that.Front not that much.
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Postby Whitz End » Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:15 pm
But yeah, definatly worth a look if you want a light and strong wheelset!
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Postby Deanj » Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:15 pm
Definatly the guys to listen too! I had read things against it on the front but you can't question those guys really and your approval is always a good one.toolonglegs wrote:3 of the guys at my LBS are testers for Australian MTB so should know there stuff and thats what they recommended.
Will be going with the crossmark on the rear, just I'm giving the ignitor a little thought as racing will be all through the winter, so just in case we get a few wet ones it would give me that bit more grip. Though if its like last winter, the ground will be like rock and I'd be better with the larsen from the sound of it. Anyone get a spare set of wheels they want to lend for 6 months?
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Postby toolonglegs » Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:22 pm
Oh there is many things i would like to spend money on...but my mtb takes a back seat,doesn't get that much use these days.I can win on the road but at 103kg's i cant win on a mtb...so i go where the glory isWhitz End wrote:You should jump onto Chain Reaction Cycles and order up a set of 717s on Hope Pro II hubs. These are literally the beez neez of wheels. Light and strong! You could always step up to the 721 which I have always considered a 'front wheel' for DH but its still XC-able. The beauty of the c r c build is that the hubs are bloody awesome! Sealed catridge bearings and your choice in colour! Loud freehub too! The wheels cost around $450 posted from UK (here in a week) and then I recommend taking them to your local bike shop and getting them pre-stressed and tightened etc just because c r c builds are worse then mine! And that says something!
But yeah, definatly worth a look if you want a light and strong wheelset!
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Postby Bnej » Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:44 pm
Main thing I like in a front tyre is thick square knobs, in the middle for the brake to grab with, and on the sides for cornering. Most of your rolling resistance and tyre is on the back tyre, and your front tyre is more important for control, so bigger tread patterns on your front.
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Postby Kalgrm » Sat Feb 09, 2008 12:37 am
Cheers,
Graeme
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Postby toolonglegs » Sat Feb 09, 2008 9:29 am
I havent raced anything apart from 24hours etc since 2000.I was 85 kilos then (20 lighter than now!)and was floating between sport / expert.But the gradings have changed since then as there was only these 2 grades so sport was very strong...then they split it to Sport / Expert / Elite.needsapush wrote:What category do you race MTB TLL?
But these days I would race vets...unless I was in the US where I hear they have a Clydesdale class
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Postby leximack » Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:01 am
Another tyre which i use is the larsen, bit gripper than the crossmark but not as good a roller.
If you want some grip with good rolling go the larsen on front and crossmark on the rear, both available in UST or non ust.
Overall though it doesnt matter too much, you juts have to know what the tyre can do and what limits it has
Don
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