Shogun Katana re-build for the second time.

[mark field]

I thought it was time to re-build the Shogun with a new coat of paint and a parts upgrade.

version one.


as i foung her on ebay

version two.
my first attempt in 2010


Shogun Katana

so here we go....








braze work was less than impressive in some areas. my sanding efforts not much better either but a slight improvement.


the caps on the bb thread are milk bottle cap liners, a good tight fit to keep grit out.

and the parts are starting to arrive..... im sure ill get it wrong with some of these choices but lets see anyway. im always keen to learn via mistakes as long as they dont cost to much.









getting this in the mail will certainly jingle my bells.








other parts ive recently aquired have come from the swap meet, alloy forks from Roger, Shimano 600 SIS levers and black cinelli bars from Josh, black Easton head stem from Warren. more bits to come.

[jbchybridrider]

"Mmm" NOS Yummy

[Velo13]

Shimano 600 SIS levers and black cinelli bars from Josh

Remember to get evil on those levers with some Kero or other strong degreaser, just be sure it's nothing that'll pull up the paint. The Cinellis should be nice.

[mark field]

im busting for the postman. to arrive that is. Ive painted the frame in rattle can gloss black enamel. The conditions were perfect and paint went on well (thanks Munga for the heating of the can trick ) Parts are starting to turn up so its a painfull time waiting for the paint to cure, i can still smell the paint after a couple of days so its not good enough to touch just yet, not sure how long for a descent cure before i can start assembly.

Josh, ive done the kero cleanup, and they came up good, i want to use that spray on lubricant you mentioned at the swap meet but ive forgotten the name of it

im also thinking of re-doing the decals in Illustrator so i can have them vinyl cut in white, or maybe silver? problem is it didnt have any decals when i purchased the bike and im unsure of the year of manufacture. if anyone can help with that one i would appreciate it greatly. pics to come.

[rkelsen]

Mark, your Shogun frame looks very similar to a 1991 model I have. I suspect that the 0 after the letters might mean 1990.

[HappyHumber]

Looking forward to the fruits of your fastidiousessness, Mark.... Though please tell me you're going for a more contemporary stem this time around ?

[mark field]

Mark, your Shogun frame looks very similar to a 1991 model I have. I suspect that the 0 after the letters might mean 1990.

then ill try to find images of Shoguns from that era as reference , thanks for that.

[mark field]

Looking forward to the fruits of your fastidiousessness, Mark.... Though please tell me you're going for a more contemporary stem this time around ?

yep, the mega-multi-adjustable-multiple nuts and bolts - waiting to take my life thing has been given the boot.

[rkelsen]

I can take some close-up pictures of the decals on mine if you like. It's a Katana too.

I'll be offline for a week or so but if you can wait, I'll try to get it done toward the end of next week or the week after.

[mark field]

I can take some close-up pictures of the decals on mine if you like. It's a Katana too.

I'll be offline for a week or so but if you can wait, I'll try to get it done toward the end of next week or the week after.

that would be great, thanks

[Velo13]

Josh, ive done the kero cleanup, and they came up good, i want to use that spray on lubricant you mentioned at the swap meet but ive forgotten the name of it

I use a Wurth product called HHS-2000, but there is a similar product from Motorex as well. I am sure SuperCheap would have something similar. Fantastic for re-lubing STI/Ergo levers, and clusters.

[mark field]

ill be heading to Supacheap then, cheers, cant wait to put it together. again. i was naughty and fitted the bb tonight, but ill leave it at that i think for at least 1 week. Paint should be cured enough by then.

[mark field]

tonight i got up close and personal with the frame, i decided it was time to hit it with the 1200 wet and dry and soapy water to knock off any imperfections in the paint.... so ive taken it back to bare metal just kidding. i was quite happy with the results although i doubt it would be up to most forum members level of quality, but its free of runs and unsightly blemishes, i got a bit spooked as i thought i had rubbed through a section but it was reflection from the bath and so stopped carresing it with sand papper. i decided it was good enough for my regular ride. In a couple of days ill ever so carefully polish with some cut and polish- with more emphasis on the polish than the cutting. then the fun begins.

[mark field]

still waiting for some parts to come in- must have been sent via sea snail but while im waiting for them ive been busy checking over the wheels and unfortunately the cones are gone on the front wheel and my spares are no better , when i get some new rubber from lbs ill grab a new front axle, luckily the rear is fine. its all coming together well with no issues so far, forks polished up well with the trusty Ozito and were an easy fit. all im really after now is a more modern seatpost and seat, bartape and that should be it. im in the process of striping the paint from the 300 exage cranks which i will paint to match the 600 tri colour components. The chainrings have been banished to the bin and replacement ones found that fit perfectly and are same size as the ones on the Sugino cranks that ive been using. They have come off the Thun brand cranks (which ive never heard of before). so im happy with that. so far so good and my little friend is overseeing the build and keeping guard.


P221111_09.55 by markfield_32, on Flickr


P221111_09.41 by markfield_32, on Flickr


P221111_09.41[01] by markfield_32, on Flickr


P221111_09.49 by markfield_32, on Flickr


P221111_09.50 by markfield_32, on Flickr


P221111_09.47[01] by markfield_32, on Flickr

[mark field]

problem number one:

new front axle and cones are identical to the old ones in all respects except there is a slightly different profile on the bearing surface, so i couldnt figure out how the axle was not protruding out enough on either side after installing on the hub, it wasnt until i held the old and new cones up to the light side by side that i realised the new ones have a bees ding dong difference in the curve meaning they sit further out than the old ones. so theres $20 wasted. so far.

[munga]

if you bought them at the lbs, take them and your old ones back. maybe they can sort some correct ones for you

[mark field]

if you bought them at the lbs, take them and your old ones back. maybe they can sort some correct ones for you

initially i took the old ones to them and said " i need identical to this" and to the naked eye what they gave me does look identical, thinner locking nuts would be ideal, just to give me an extra 3 or 4mm protruding on either side, but they would have to be very thin as they are already pretty thin as it is. but yes, a second trip to LBS will be the go.

[vaeske]

Looking forward to the fruits of your fastidiousessness, Mark.... Though please tell me you're going for a more contemporary stem this time around ?

yep, the mega-multi-adjustable-multiple nuts and bolts - waiting to take my life thing has been given the boot.

+1 yeah that adjustable stem didn't fit the bike! Good luck with the rebuild! Should be very good with Shimano 600 NOS aye!

[mark field]

i hope i can do justice with the nos gear, anyway i have sorted out the axle and wheels are on, still waiting for bits to arrive. i got excited today as the postman rang twice, but it was a bunch of car parts and a Fanta yo-yo. so i wait patiently.


Untitled by markfield_32, on Flickr

Untitled by markfield_32, on Flickr

Untitled by markfield_32, on Flickr

[vaeske]

mmm...its looking quite good i must admit...retro brifters I like a lot. Look forward to the finished product dude!!!

[rkelsen]

Hey Mark,

Sorry it took a while, but I've finally gotten around to taking those pics for you.

They're too big to post between 'IMG' tags, but here are the links:

Top tube: http://members.optusnet.com.au/rkelsen/DSC00628-cropped.jpeg
Down tube: http://members.optusnet.com.au/rkelsen/DSC00629-cropped.jpeg
Head tube: http://members.optusnet.com.au/rkelsen/DSC00630-cropped.jpeg
Seat tube: http://members.optusnet.com.au/rkelsen/DSC00631-cropped.jpeg - note that there is also a smaller version of this one on the forks.

You can see where they're placed on the bike in the Shogun Appreciation thread: http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=21141

They weren't stuck on straight!

The other sticker which appeared on these (but had been peeled off mine by a previous owner for some reason), is the Tange Infinity logo which was placed toward the top of the seat tube.

For the record, the serial number on mine (a 1991 model) is: TB10506215.

Cheers,


Rob

[mark field]

fantastic work with those logo photos Rob, now i can get to work having some made up, when i do ill send some your way. i especially like the head tube logo, and the seat tube logo has a very late 80's -90's feel to it. im going to do them in white or a metalic grey. thanks again for your effort, much appreciated.

[mark field]

just wondering, would the 'T' in the serial number stand for Tange? if so then i can rightfully place a tange infinity decal on my frame. It was void of any decals when i got it so all i have to go by is the serial number.

[rkelsen]

I'm not sure, but I think it stands for Taiwan.

If you're sure it's a Katana, then it's a safe bet that it is built from Tange Infinity. Check the seatpost diameter and it should be 26.4mm.

[BLU_FZ!]

"Templite Ultra 4130" and the seat post im guessing is 26mm