Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
The Kona fork doesn't look like the EVO fork at all. Will try and get some close up pics of the crown & disc tabs for comparison..
The Kona fork has a flattish triangular shape to the fork leg, whic appears quite different to the Evo and other forks I have seen so far.
Suggestion in article below on new Cannondale CX disc bike that "...with 135mm rear spacing to accommodate what is fast becoming the industry standard."
http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/c ... bike-32144
Something to keep in mind for the future if you're currently looking to buy a disc frame.
It will be interesting to see what becomes the std for road disc bikes. The CX and MTB are solid on the 135, and wonder with the push towrads 11sp by Shimano, whether they will use the extra 5mm to get some cassette space as well as extra hub strength ...
Volagi is currently 130mm with their carbon frames, and steel frames like the Kona whilst 130mm, can easily be made to take 135, but not sure what the go will be for Volagi .....
Crappy picture of the Cannondale ...
I wouldn't mind seeing 135mm become the road standard, an extra 5mm on the DS can only be a good thing for lateral wheel stiffness.
Whilst the 324Labs version is a weensy bit neater, the Parabox one requires a bit of stem space.
Personally, I'll wait for the Shimano/SRAM unveiling, and then go from there.
Just got an email back from SJS rstating that the A647 from them (as per the above link) has an Axle to Crown length of 370mm
Meaning it's a direct replacement for a road fork, rather than a cyclocross one
Mind you, it ain't cheap. List price is GBP 199, and Std International delivery is GBP37, but after the VAT is deducted, the grand total is GBP203, which is the same as A$305. Hmmmmmmm - maybe a bit of a markup from EVO.
Other thing is it doesn't have mudguard eyelets, but not a huge issue.
So there is a know solution for a ROAD bike
well I tried to put my 185 mm disc on but discovered that CRC had sent an adapter for a rear not a front, so no 185 disc. But I put my Kinesis CF disc fork back on, put the 160 mm disc on, adjusted it all up, and it is quite wonderful. Reasonably powerful, perhaps only twice that of good calipers, and has very short lever action. I tried it out coming down from Mt Lofty today at about 50kph. Works well, very easy to modulate.
Despite XACD sending another Ti fork, I still can't get it to work with the disc. I think the disc tab isn't on straight on this one either.
Please be nice to me, I'm not very bright.
Bugger Peter, that's a shame re the Ti fork - sounds like their jig is not up to scratch.
I'm really happy with my 185/160 combo. Works a treat.
Late last week, was flying down Shephers Hill Rd, passed a guy on a normal roadie and had to pull up at the lights at the bottom. Obviously the other guy struggled to stop, as when he pulled up next to me at the lights, his first comment (after putting his eyes back in) was "I gotta get me some brakes like that !"..
I jus grinned
i feel that the front wheel stiffness is compromised when using disc brake for road bike. it is not felt when sprinting, but in high speed cornering. maybe the effect is exagarated as i use 700 x 35 tire?? the steering feels a bit odd compared to normal road bike
There could be something to it as the flange width is reduced from 100 to 55mm, but when I moved over to a disc front end with twice as many spokes and the same tyres, it felt stiffer to me. However I also changed to a different frameset too.
Didn't notice a change when I went from V brakes to disc on the front end of my MTB. That time I dropped from 32 spokes to 28 too.
Like you said, it may be the tyres/pressure. Maybe try some 23s with 90+ psi on the front. That's what I'm using currently. I'm 80Kg.
Did you use the same bike and swap out the wheel or is the disc brake bike a different machine altogether? Many so called disk brake road bikes are cyclocross frames with mix 'n' max geometry which make them feel vague at the best of times. A road bike with classic geometry 73 x 73 deg with a 70mm BB drop and a 1000mm wheelbase can feel completely different depending on the fork offset or the frame material or indeed the wheel build or tyre size (even tyre brand). Hell, even the rim width can make a big difference to front end feel. MTB riders have been pounding these things over terrain across the globe and if the wheel is built right it won't be the wheel causing you problems.
35mm tire? I don't think that's a road bike but more like a commuter or recreational bike, unless it's a cyclocrosser. No wonder it feels a bit odd.
Is this you?
That's the old, "If 29" is better than 26", then surely 36" must be better than 29" ". One frame builder who built one said the wheels were too flexy to be of any real benefit (or words to that effect).
I tried to use 25mm slick from other bike on the same wheel, then it feels OK!!
so I guess its the tyre..
credit to hangdog
What was it like to get the tyres on and off due to the rim profile (Stans tubeless) ?
What were the hubs/rims like to build up with ?
Did you use double butted spokes ? I am assuming 32 with 3x ?
Looking fwd to hearing a ride report on whether you feel any differences.
A pr**k! Probably the hardest tyres i've ever mounted and they're floppy 32's, my tubeless road setup was way easier to mount. Will have to see how they go roadside
No Issues with the build up at all, used laser spokes (2.0-1.5-2.0), brass nipples, 32hx3 all round. Freewheel has a nice quick zzzzz to it, not too loud.
I was really surprised at how they roll, they're noticeably smoother but i'm not expert enough to distinguish whether its the better bearings or less rotational weight - probably both actually!
I just saw this. XACD is kinda known for screwing up the braze-ons, welded tabs, etc. Of many people's frames. I suspect their frame building jigs aren't accurate.
Just landed myself a Wrench Force wheel truing jig.
Pics when it arrives
well, I took the fork to an engineering workshop, and while the first XACD fork clearly had the disc tab at the wrong angle, this time I couldn't fault it. So maybe they did try harder this time. Anyway, I took it all home, and by now CRC have sent the correct adapter, so off came the Kinesis CF fork and back went the new XACD Ti fork. And the 185mm disc.
First problem: disc hits the fork. Bugger. So I put a 1mm spacer in to push the fork out, after roughening its surface on the bench grinder. Disc now misses the fork by about 0.1mm.
But the good news is that it all adjusted and aligned up OK. So it must have just been me. Not the first time. In my defence I can point out that I'm going blind (but only in 1 eye).
Took it for a ride today. First impression: it's wonderful to get back onto a Ti fork after CF, much smoother ride. Second: bike feels nicer with the axle-crown distance being tight, so it lowers the front of the bike about 25mm. Perfect. Third impression: powerful braking, better than 160mm, v happy with that. Fourth impression: by god its noisy: it howls and shrieks terribly.
But it still isn't the ultra-powerful, 1-finger massive stopping power that you get with a late model eg Kawasaki with dual front discs. I still want more.
Please be nice to me, I'm not very bright.
Wait till it gets wet !!! Mine does occasionally, and moreso in the wet, but that is about it.
I'm glad I tried the 185, and I'll stick with it.
0.1mm is cloooooose. Mine's close, but not that close
Carver Carbon Disc Cyclocross Fork
http://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-product- ... cross-fork
The fork weighs in at 630grams, making this the lightest carbon disc cyclocross fork in its price rage.*
I like how they compared it to just one, that was naturally heavier. The Trigon one is the same weight and cheaper
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