open topic, for anything cycling related.
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
My Avanti Blade Sport comes with 700x28c all condition tyres...I remember when I first got it the tyres were rock hard. After the first 2 weeks they became a bit soft so I went to my bike shop to pump it up (they did it for me when it was getting the trip computer fitted). Now its time to pump them again. I bought a floor pump but I'm not sure how hard to pump them.
The tyre says "recommended 800KPa min/850KPa max with hook bead rim (115PSI/125PSI, 8.0Bar/8.5Bar)
Does that min 115min and 125max PSI?
On 23mm tyres that would be about 100psi front and 110psi rear.
So I guessing that on 28mm tyres, that would be about 85psi front and 95psi rear.
Michelin's tyre pressure guide
Sheldon Brown tyre pessure guide
I'm not sure if I'm using the floor pump correctly or not.
On my MTB, as soon as I put the valve in and lock it the gauge gives me a reading of PSI and so I could pump it up no worries...
But on the flat bar nothing happens when I put valve in and lock.
Its only when I start pumping do I see something.
So when I unscrew the cap off the tyre I then unscrew the little metal thingy, right? I can now put the pump valve thing in and lift to lock...
Have I got the steps correct?
And when I stop pumpingg (just under 100PSI) the thing is kind of hard to pull off. By the time I yank it off I'm sure I've let some air out.
I feel like such an idiot, that I can't even pump a tyre!!!
Can't wait til I get a puncture and have to change it (not that I have a spare tube or puncture kit).
I actually do like the whole puncture repair process.
The secret is to carry a spare tube with you. A lot of people have a small saddle bag under the seat with a tube and tyre levers. I carry a patch kit but have yet to have a double puncture on the one ride.
It's much more fun to repair a tube at home.
As Mike says, the 700c tube has a 'presta' valve and they often won't register on a pump's gauge until they open - ie. after you've got some air in. Mine often go way up, then the valve 'cracks open' and I start to get sensible readings. Your sequence of events seems right - well, that's what I do anyway!
Don't forget to 'unlock' the pump from the valve - but the air you hear escaping is more likely to be air in the delivery hose from the pump, rather the bike tube.
I think that 100 psi in a 28 mm tyre seems pretty high, especially if you're only low- to mid-70 kgs.
That's pretty much it. Over inflation reduces the suspension effect of the tyres, which gives you a harsher ride. That's not just uncomfortable as the extra juddering also reduces traction. The harder tyres also make your wheels more prone to damage if you hit a bump. Under inflation on the other hand increases rolling resistance so slowing you down, and if severe puts you at risk of a 'pinch flat' type puncture or even damaged wheel rims if you hit a bump.
Edit: Seems Bnej has been talking about these things too, over in another thread: http://bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?p=7744#7744
What happens is that the tyre feels as if its giving you less rolling resistance where in fact it is giving you greater rolling resistance. Instead of folding around the micro bumps on the road surface, it is bouncing upwards over them converting your forwards energy into wasted upwards energy.
more exactly, it's actually less rolling resistance, but you're wasting energy since you're pedalling while bouncing (i.e, airborne), some of the energy you're putting into the pedals isn't converted into forward movement due to the tyre not gripping while you bounce.
also, related, is the slight loss of traction you get due to the bounce/loss of grip, can be dangerous if by chance you need quick precise handiling.
12 posts • Page 1 of 1
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