Component Life
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Component Life
Postby Aushiker » Tue Apr 29, 2008 2:56 pm
Having being caught out not being prepared for the tyres to wear out so quickly and now the chain needing replacing, I was curious as to what folks estimate is the life cycle of various parts of a bike or more specifically a commuter which is used all year round (rain and dry).
My thinking is to plan ahead having the replacement parts purchased at a reasonable price and on hand before they need replacing.
Thoughts?
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Andrew
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Postby Deanj » Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:06 pm
I bought a park tool chain wear indicator (tried the measuring it with a ruler thing, and its not for me) as I was about to change the chain on my roadie. Its done just over 6000kms and according to the park tool its still good. Think it will be a good tool as I'll keep a regular eye on my chains from now on and change the chain as soon as needed.
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Postby Aushiker » Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:13 pm
What sort of km?needsapush wrote:Just bought a new chain, cassette and chain rings for the commuter. They are that worn out though
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Postby sogood » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:05 pm
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.
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Postby Deanj » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:06 pm
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Postby Bnej » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:18 pm
Then there is the load the chain is pulling, amount of gear teeth the chain is usually pulling on, etc. Sand and grit can grind away at components over time.
Your Milage Will Vary.
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Postby Aushiker » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:30 pm
Yep which is why I framed my question in the context of commuters who ride in the rain and dry, i.e., a sub-set of riders plus if we get some data a ball park figure can determined at least as a starting point.sogood wrote:It's different for everyone and for components of different quality. I have read people "stretching" their chain from 1500km to 10,000km. The variability suggests that you just have to try it and find out for your setup. The Veloce 10-speed chain on my Bianchi is still going strong after 5000km. Nowhere near the spec replacement point. Yet again, I rarely ride in the wet and always wipe the chain down after every ride.
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Postby sogood » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:37 pm
Yes, then you should also ask about the type of equipment, rider's ability, weight etc. They all have some bearing.Aushiker wrote:Yep which is why I framed my question in the context of commuters who ride in the rain and dry, i.e., a sub-set of riders plus if we get some data a ball park figure can determined at least as a starting point.
But back to your original reason for this thread. I for one stocks up on spares when the price is right. I would start to scour for new tyres and other components at a good price once I can see EOL (end of life) on any of them. Plan ahead and order a few items together to save up on P&H. Saving money this way is just too easy so just do it.
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.
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Postby Aushiker » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:57 pm
No, that is just being over the top IMO and is unnecessary given what I am trying to achieve here which is a ball park mileage figure for components, a starting point, as to the likely time a replacement will be needed. For example should I expect a BB to need replacement around 10,000 km? Once I replace a component then of course I can get more accurate data and over time I can build a database and that would be more useful for me.sogood wrote:Yes, then you should also ask about the type of equipment, rider's ability, weight etc. They all have some bearing.Aushiker wrote:Yep which is why I framed my question in the context of commuters who ride in the rain and dry, i.e., a sub-set of riders plus if we get some data a ball park figure can determined at least as a starting point.
I was hoping/thought that some forum members would have an idea of what their mileage is and that would give some idea.
That is my plan, just that I was looking for guidelines as to component life. So using my BB example if it is likely to last 20,000 km then I don't need to get one in the next 12 months, however, if it is likely to last 10,000 km then a purchase at a good price in the next six months becomes more viable.But back to your original reason for this thread. I for one stocks up on spares when the price is right. I would start to scour for new tyres and other components at a good price once I can see EOL (end of life) on any of them. Plan ahead and order a few items together to save up on P&H. Saving money this way is just too easy so just do it.
Andrew
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Postby Aushiker » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:59 pm
Andrew
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Postby Bnej » Tue Apr 29, 2008 5:03 pm
On a 26t sprocket the load will be distributed around ~12 teeth, and there are more teeth to wear down as well. If you're using all your gears relatively evenly then there are over 100 teeth for the wear to distribute around on.
Shifting under load damages the chain & gears over time too.
Good technique and use of gears will have as much impact as riding in the rain or regular maintenance.
So really probably more than 2,000km and less than 10,000km.
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Postby mikesbytes » Tue Apr 29, 2008 6:56 pm
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Postby sogood » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:16 pm
Well, the other thing to realise is that components wear out at different rates and you can adjust your inventory accordingly. Tyres, tubes and chains wear out the fastest or may get cut up or break that'll require immediate replacement, so you should have enough spares of these all the time. For other drive train components, you'll usually have enough warning of significant wear if you check them every 2-3 months. Even when worn, you'll still have time to extract a bit more life out of them and give you time to order.Aushiker wrote:Okay, I give up.
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.
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Postby toolonglegs » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:16 pm
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Postby sogood » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:28 pm
Why did you specifically pick out the small chainring on the CT? Is there something that predisposes it to accelerated wear?toolonglegs wrote:Dont worry about the front as they last a lot longer unless you run a triple or compact then maybee the granny and middle.
I've switched across to CT on both of my bikes and have found that I rarely use the 34 small ring. So if anything is going to get worn out, it'll be the large ring first I think.
RK wrote:And that is Wikipedia - I can write my own definition.
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Postby toolonglegs » Tue Apr 29, 2008 10:07 pm
Only because if you spend a lot of time in a 34 I suppose it will wear out quicker than if you spend a lot of time in a 39T.Just going from experience on mtb's...the 34 wears out pretty quick compared to the 44.I ride in both equal amounts but have only worn out a 44 once...although it is scary when you are in a 44 and get the chain slipping on it while putting the power down.sogood wrote:Why did you specifically pick out the small chainring on the CT? Is there something that predisposes it to accelerated wear?toolonglegs wrote:Dont worry about the front as they last a lot longer unless you run a triple or compact then maybee the granny and middle.
I've switched across to CT on both of my bikes and have found that I rarely use the 34 small ring. So if anything is going to get worn out, it'll be the large ring first I think.
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Postby Aushiker » Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:35 am
Thanks toolonglegs and Sogood for your comments along these lines. This is helpful. I have tubes on hand, tyres in the pipeline, brakepads on hand. Just got caught on the chain and really need to get a cluster which brings me to the next question.toolonglegs wrote:Just stock up on tyres,brake pads,chain and rear cluster.
I currently have a 12-27 cassette and a 34-50 chain ring. I see at Chainreactioncycles there are other options in respect to the cassette.
In general terms (better hill climbing, faster descents) I assume I am better off staying with this cassette. Would that be correct? I assume the smaller the small gear the better top end speed and the larger the the big gear the better climbing. Have I got that right?
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Postby toolonglegs » Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:15 am
If you are using the 27T quite often then I would stick with it....27 being the climbing gear and the 12T being the high speed gear.But if you have never used it you may be better off going for a 11-26 that SRAM do or a 12-25 Shimano.The 11-26 will give you higher speeds in the 11....where as the 12-25 will give you closer ratios between gear changes....or if your riding is pretty much flat even a 11-23.Aushiker wrote:Thanks toolonglegs and Sogood for your comments along these lines. This is helpful. I have tubes on hand, tyres in the pipeline, brakepads on hand. Just got caught on the chain and really need to get a cluster which brings me to the next question.toolonglegs wrote:Just stock up on tyres,brake pads,chain and rear cluster.
I currently have a 12-27 cassette and a 34-50 chain ring. I see at Chainreactioncycles there are other options in respect to the cassette.
In general terms (better hill climbing, faster descents) I assume I am better off staying with this cassette. Would that be correct? I assume the smaller the small gear the better top end speed and the larger the the big gear the better climbing. Have I got that right?
Regards
Andrew
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Postby Aushiker » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:04 am
Thanks Toolonglegs. With my fitness or rather lack of it, I do still sometimes use the 27T so suspect that is the better option for me. I wonder if changing the crank would be an idea?toolonglegs wrote:If you are using the 27T quite often then I would stick with it....27 being the climbing gear and the 12T being the high speed gear.But if you have never used it you may be better off going for a 11-26 that SRAM do or a 12-25 Shimano.The 11-26 will give you higher speeds in the 11....where as the 12-25 will give you closer ratios between gear changes....or if your riding is pretty much flat even a 11-23.Aushiker wrote:Thanks toolonglegs and Sogood for your comments along these lines. This is helpful. I have tubes on hand, tyres in the pipeline, brakepads on hand. Just got caught on the chain and really need to get a cluster which brings me to the next question.toolonglegs wrote:Just stock up on tyres,brake pads,chain and rear cluster.
I currently have a 12-27 cassette and a 34-50 chain ring. I see at Chainreactioncycles there are other options in respect to the cassette.
In general terms (better hill climbing, faster descents) I assume I am better off staying with this cassette. Would that be correct? I assume the smaller the small gear the better top end speed and the larger the the big gear the better climbing. Have I got that right?
Regards
Andrew
Andrew
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Postby mikesbytes » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:48 am
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Postby Aushiker » Wed Apr 30, 2008 11:08 am
No. I can only spin out in 34-12. My problem is more that on my commutes I get sections which are long enough to spin out in 34-12 but really are not long enough to justify going up to the big chain ring.mikesbytes wrote:Do you spin out in 50-12? I'm thinking that you may not have a use for an 11.
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