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I have an old 90's Kona Cinda Cone (love steel) that I'm wanting to fix up to a sweet SS for some general curb hopping and a little single track action.
Want I am after is some advice on parts. I want to go secondhand where possible to keep down the costs.
Budget is around $400...tell me if I'm dreaming.
The shopping list is:
Front shocks with lock out.
Rear SS hub (I have used a kit that replaces the cluster before but I want a more smooth look)
The rest I already have, though i will probably replace the cranks down the line.
Or....do you think I could get something like this complete secondhand for a similar price???
Yeah thought it would cost more, but still thinking I can do it a bit cheaper with used parts.
Any recommendations on brands/models especially for the shocks....I know absolutely jack about shocks.....though I know I want lock out.
You will most likely have trouble finding a fork with the correct AC measurement. A rigid (eg surly fork) might be a better option.
SS hubs. Hadley and Hope make nice hubs. $400 is a small budget A nice SS wheel will use a large piece of the $400. I suspension fork will also cost a lot. Second hand forks are cheaper but if they need servicing a new fork may have been a cheaper option.
Two new cheaper forks. These will most likely be too long for your frame. They can be shortened.
SR SUNTOUR EPICON X2 LOD Fork, 100mm, Preload/Lockout - 2 colors
011 SR SUNTOUR XCR-RL MTB Fork Remote Lockout White (do not be temped by the cheaper Suntour forks. Rubbish by all accounts)
Origin 8 Single Speed Disc Rear Hub Black 32H QR
White Industries Eno Single Speed Hub, 32 Hole, Silver this allows you to tension the chain without the need for a chain tensioner on bikes with vertical dropouts. just check it is 135mm spacing
You don't need a lock out on the fork IMHO just learn to ride smoothly
re: the cheap SunTour forks.
The XCR-RL is the cheapest "proper" fork you can buy after-market BUT there is one caveat: it's a full 100mm fork so may not suit a 90s Kona.
My (brief and recent) education in forks involved using/abusing and breaking a series of forks on my old Norco frame including a RockShox Judy (period correct) and a Manitou Axel - 60mm and 80mm travel respectively.
The Judy was probably the closest "period" fork I could find and, frankly, it sucked.
The Manitou was excellent (very lightweight) but fragile.
I put a suntour XCR-RL on the bike and while it was really lovely, it sat far too high for the geometry of the frame. I passed it on (fitted it to an apollo frame) and it was absolutely brilliant on that bike.
On my Norco (a Mocha, late 90s frame) the geometry was just all wrong. I felt this most when climbing because the front wheel spent most of it's time off the deck during steep climbs.
Out of desperation (and a touch of temporary poverty) I bought one of the XCR V2 forks from Cycling Deal for $60 odd expecting it to just keep the front of the bike off the ground. I mean, it's not brilliant, but it solved the geometry issues instantly. I know exactly one MTB trick (a bunny hop) and that fork is no impediment to full gas leaping off downhill obstacles and landing heavily. As usual with cheap suspension, there's lots of spring and not enough damper but for what it is, it has plenty of rigidity and it works well enough.
so, in summary, a cheap suntour XCR V2 is loads better than whatever fork your Kona came with when it was new. It isn't a SID, but I will be charity racing on the XCR V2 and enjoying it. For $60 it's a steal.
So we get the leaders we deserve and we elect, we get the companies and the products that we ask for, right? And we have to ask for different things. – Paul Gilding
but really, that's rubbish. We get none of it because the choices are illusory.
No two forks seem to be the same.
How to reduce travel of a base model Suntour XCR fork.
Suntour XCR Fork maintenance, disassembly, repair, fix, service. You might need to be a member to see the thread/pictures.
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