19 posts • Page 1 of 1
I am very new to this forum and new to cycling. After watching a lot of the tour de france and the olympic I am really wanting to purchase a road bike soon but was hoping for a few tips before going ahead and speaking to a salesmen.
I own a mountain bike which i purchased from a 'bigger bike shop' which turned out to be a mistake as i have discovered the bike is to big and does not feel like it was set up correctly at all. I feel the salesman took advantage of me and my lack of experience as this was my first bike. To make sure i do not make this same mistake i was hoping someone could answer a few questions.
I was hoping to spend between $1750 - $2000 just on the bike. I have lights etc and will purchase other gear in time.
- Frame Size!?! My biggest concern! I know it is difficult to answer this question as it can obviously vary between brands. I am 5'10 and weigh 70kg. anyone know roughly what frame size i should go for? may be a stupid question but i am just being extra cautious as i have very little trust in the staff who sell the bikes.
- Brands? Interested to know what brands to look at in this budget and what to avoid.
- To be honest i know nothing about the quality if gears and brakes on these bikes and do not know what to look out for so i cant really ask questions there.
Thanks for your time!
G'Day Primus, welcome outside.
For a start, Google "competitive cyclist fit calculator" and plug your numbers in to get an idea of what size will work for you. It Don't go by the bloke in a shop eying you and saying "yair, size x will do you maaaaaate."
As to which bike, that'll depend on which of the multitude of types in your price range feel good and look good to YOU. You'll be hard pressed to find rubbish at your price range but IMO, a bike at x pricepoint with better gear will compensate with a lower quality in frame or other parts like the wheels or saddle.
Running gear levels for Shimano (lowest to highest):
For SRAM it's:
I'll have to leave the spec levels for Campagnolo to someone who knows it better.
Have a look at www.bikeexchange.com.au to start creating a shortlist of units that appeal. Then it's time to hit the shops. I suggest that when you do, tell the shop staff that your budget is about $1600 so you have some space to bargain.
Good luck with it.
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
Hi I am in the market to sell my Single Speed Masi Road Bike, if you are female '57 then this bike will be perfect size for you.
it is in tip top shape as i hardly ever got the time to enjoy the luxury ride.
The only thing it needs it for the chain to be oiled as the sales man from BSC in melbourne who sold it to me did not ensure he oiled the chain.
I have believe i still have the purchase receipts however as i brought it over 1 year ago the 1 year manufacturing warranty has expired but as the bike is in as new condition this will not an issue for you.
if you are interested I will accept $650 for this bike because it is in immaculate condition.
At 5' 10" should mean a 56cm frame. Note, at just over 6' 0" I should ride a 58cm frame, I am more at home on a 56cm or even 54cm frame, but that is personal preference.
As Mulger Bill said check out Competitive Cyclist fit calculator and read about various fit philosophies there.
Most of your other questions have been answered many times in similar posts from other first time buyers. Use the search function to get a lot more information.
But the basics put a few hundred dollars aside from your budget for helmet, shoes, knicks, jersey, gloves etc.
Again as As Mulger Bill said understand the groupset hierarchy, not you can not really compare one brand to another, ie is Rival equal to 105 , ultegra, centaur or athena will start an argument amongst a small group of cyclists.
shimano 2200 <_sora <- tiagra <- 105 <- ultegra <- dura ace
SRAM apex <- rival <- force <- red
Campagnolo veloce <- centaur <- athena <- chorus <- record <- super record
Microshift is a relatively new player in the market, you are finding their shifters and derailleurs on some brand "entry" level bike. I have there top end Arsis shifter and derailleurs and very happy with the quality, given the choice between ultegra nd arsis for my crit bike project it will be arsis.
Other companies make great cranksets, chains & decent brakes, sometimes you will find these parts instead of a full groupset, don't assume this is to save money and these parts are of lesser quaility, do some research, often it is because the brand see this as better value for the dollar.
For a budget of $1800 or so, you should get a bike with 105 or ultegra depending on the brand, rival or probably centaur.
Just because shimano is the most popular, does not mean it is the best for you. Ride at least one example of shimano, SRAM & Campagnolo to find which shifters feel right in your hands.
Ride as many bikes as possible to find the right one for you. Also visit lots of bike shops, find the right one for you, hopefully the right bike comes from the right store who is willing to work with you.
If the cycling bug hits, expect to be replacing your bike in 12 months, the smart LBS (local bike shop) know this and look at getting a long term relationship than a quick sale
For your first road bike the critical aspect is getting the right fit/size so buying from shop is recommended. Different makes will fit differently. A 54 frame size can vary significantly.
Groupset - you'll get something with Shimao 105 for this money.
Wheels - this is typically where cost gets shaved on new bikes and you can expect to see something very basic.
Frame - carbon v aluminium? typically for your budget you'll be looking at a lower end carbon frame or the upper end of the Alu frames. I wouldn't be overly concerned by the lower end carbon. It doesn't mean it is more likely to fail as it is more a case of stiffness and weight.
Brands to look for:
- Trek, Giant, Merida, Malvern Star, Cannondale, Specialised (can't bring myself to spell it the other way) are all reliable brands that have options in your budget.
As previously noted take anything suggested to you for a ride to get a feel as to whether it is right for you.
If you post your general catchment area I'm sure you'll get some recommendations as to a good shop and who to speak to. Keep in mind there are variations in each shop as well. For example one I go to, there are only 2 guys I'll deal with in there as they know their stuff whereas the others are just shop assistants.
I think as said before ride a lot of different bikes and don't rush in, i think finding a shop that your !! BAN ME NOW FOR SWEARING !! meter doesn't go off in is important and talk to them, a good shop should spend an hr or so fitting you correctly to the bike once you buy it.
Also as stated earlier if you get into riding this 1st bike will not be good enough in a yr or 2, my 1st was a giant and i think they are great value for money generally and i really liked this bike but the more i rode the more i wanted a better bike, i guess it's like everything, then your first bike will either become a spare/wet weather bike or you may get a few hundred for it if you sell it.
I think the better gearset you can get for your budget is the way to go but be prepared as you will end up spending the same amount again on the rest of the bike gear over the next few years as you find you need jackets, gilletts, better shoes etc for all different weathers.
But it's great fun and exercise so enjoy
2011 Pinarello FPquattro
2009 Giant Defy1 (spare bike now)
Thanks all for this great information and advice! much appreciated for your time.
I will be sure to visit a few different bike shops over the weekend and definitely wont rush into a sale. I will ride as many as I can to see what works and feels best for me.
@SPC, I actually purchased my mountain bike from there maybe I was just served from the wrong person who was out to get the quick sale and sold me what was on the floor rather than pointing me in the direction of a smaller sized frame. I have learnt from this mistake and will test plenty of road bikes.
Yeah im guessing i will really enjoy the road cycling and will look to upgrade in future!
Yeah many of their staff aren't the best... i think they are mostly a high volume, low repeat customer kind of operation. If possible talk to the older bloke with the tats, he owns the shop and is good to deal with.
Just a thought for you to consider.
I was similar to you...I'd been on the MTB for years and about 2 years ago made the switch to the road bike.
initially I was looking at around $2,000 for a bike, thought it would get me something that was awesome (which it would).
I always look at stuff for ages before I buy, I'm not the type to rush into a shop and buy the first thing I see.
I did some research, looked at half a dozen local shops. sticking to my $2k budget I could get some great bikes.
A mate of mine (who is a serious cyclists and triathlete) suggested I spend less, and get something with a view to upgrading in 12-18 months. initially this seemed silly to me, but he raised the following arguments:
1. It was my first bike and he said I'd most likely have the odd accident, not be sure how tight to tighten that nut/bolt, might even have the odd accident hitting a pothole or gutter etc. So I should stick with a cheaper alloy frame which would prob handle the knocks of a 'learner' better than a carbon roady
2. If I didn't like the road bike, not too much spent
3. If I loved the roadie, in 12 months I would be in a better position to upgrade having something to compare against - this would allow me to be better informed when testing other bikes etc.
4. You always want to upgrade, so I would be looking at new bikes within 12 months anyway
5. It can be an extra bit of motiovation (ie I wont get a new bike until I've tracked 10,000kms on this one...)
6. He suggested putting some of the extra money towards stuff to go with the bike - rather than a top of the range bike, but cheapass shoes, lights, knicks etc, he suggested going a little lower down the ladder on the bike, but making sure I had great comfortable shoes, etc so I enjoyed the riding more.
Long story short, I paid about $1,200 for the Scott S20, with full 105 gear. Had it now for nearly 2 years and loving it....and I feel I'm now in a better position when choosing my upgrade, because I've had that time in the saddle, I know what I like, I know more about the bikes than ever before etc.
The sad (or happy, depending on which way you look at it) part of the story is that after a few weeks of searching for my upgrade bike, I went into my local store a month ago, under strict instructions from my wife to buy HER a new road bike...
So now she has a new Avanti....and I'm buying her lights, knicks etc, PLUS I need new racks to carry the bikes (only one fits in the back of that car so now that we have TWO I need to get some racks....
So, in summary
1. From my experience it might be a good option to buy a cheaper bike with the intention of upgrading later.
2. Don' let your missus become interested in cycling
I have approved this post so that I can let you know that it is actually off topic and also should go in the MarketPlace section... though you do need to have min. 10 posts / 7 days offer items for sale there.
$6480 Raised for the TourXOz Adelaide to Darwin charity ride benefitting the Black Dog Institute.
Excellent advice Andy
2011 Pinarello FPquattro
2009 Giant Defy1 (spare bike now)
I think reason #2 sucks.
Spending less in case you don't like it is defeatist, and usually means getting a cap piece of gear that ensures you won't like it. Sure, there is a place for some moderation, but having nice gear is a great motivating factor.
You have officially become your parents.
The rule that i have always been taught by my Dad and Uncle that have ridden since they were boys is that you get the best frame you can afford, then worry about running gear. The logic being its cheaper to upgrade groupset, wheels etc. than it is a frame. Also a frame is going to impact the quality of your ride more than any of the other components. The difficulty here being that the quality of frames is harder to judge nowadays than it was when you were talking about steal frames. At $2k you right on the border of still getting quite good Aluminum frames (some think that carbon is always better i personally don't subscribe to this) the Cannondale CAAD10 is a great frame and you should be able to get a good price on one. As has been mentioned its a case of test riding as much as possible and finding what you like.
We are stuck with technology when what we really want is just stuff that works (Douglas Adams)
Ken, I wasn't suggesting going out and getting a $200 k-mart job....
My 'cheaper' bike was the Scott S20, full 105 gear, everything is pretty decent about it and it weighs in at about 8.5kg.... I could have spent another $1000 and gone for something 'nicer' but really, would I (as someone new to road biking at the time) be able to tell the difference between 105 running gear and ultegra?, would I have noticed the 1kg weight difference had I gone to a full carbon frame? Would better set of wheels made that much difference to my riding? Would I even have been in a position to judge a 'good' feeling bike to an 'excellent' one, given I had never done more than 10kms in the saddle of a road bike...?)
I regard my 'cheaper' bike as being excellent for me, and I have now been about 18 months with it - actually, I like it so much I am reluctant to upgrade as I don't know whether I could part with it...
I spend the extra money on decent shoes (Scott Pro Roads - which feel like slippers, decent knicks, some accessories that I wanted including new pump, lights, bidons etc....).
I am currently looking for my upgrade bike, and feel like I am in a much better position, 18 months down the track, to be able to fully consider what my next bike is...
Plus, my current Scott will most likely get the addition of some panier racks and will become my commuter....
My first road bike was a trek 2300 with ultegra groupset,
and she was a beauty to start with, trouble free and give you a good feel for riding and what you want to expect when upgrading.
Did I mention, the bike was way under $1000.
My next upgrade to a full carbon Giant was a disappointment (so the initial bike, I still consider a great start)
Years later I knew what a real upgrade was all about with Focus and Specialized...
Anyway, don't shoot me over this,
just my 2cents.
That is a lot bigger than I would have thought.
I am 5'9 and am on a 50cm (S) Merida, I was fitted at the shop and it is so comfortable I think I would only ever buy a fram that is exactly the same geometry as I would not want to change a thing.
I just have clearance when I straddle the frame.
Make sure you get measured properly, and not just eyed off by the guys in the shop. Remember that you may be the same height as someone else but have a longer torso and shorter legs or vice versa, your arm length can also vary compared to others of the same height.
this seems like a decent buy at first look
http://www.goldcross.com.au/online-stor ... escription
Fuji Sl 1.0 Carbon Road Bike - Mens $1749 save $750
•C-4 carbon frame
•Fuji fc-770 carbon fork w/ alloy steerer
•Shimano ultegra, 20 speed gearing
•Tektro caliper brakes
•Oval alloy clincher wheelset
19 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users