Buying my first real MTB
- Mugglechops
- Posts: 3037
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:51 pm
- Location: Wagga
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Mugglechops » Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:50 pm
If you go for a hardtail 29er, Trek warrant their bikes for up to 130kgs.
I also have a Superfly Al HT that has now done a bit over 1300kms with no issues.
- trailgumby
- Posts: 15469
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
- Contact:
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby trailgumby » Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:54 pm
Very observant - your brother was directing you to get the one he wanted, not necessarily the one best for you. Have to admit I was going "Oh gosh ... not ideal " but I didn't want to discourage you and I could see why with your weight you might have found some elements of the package attractive.
Anyway, starting over...
I'd still recommend a dually. The suspension not only soaks up the hits to your butt, but it absorbs some of the hits the wheels and frame have to deal with as well. Hardtails are very fast - which is why the sub-70kg wringing wet race whippets prefer them - but they are much harder on the lower back and legs as the ride gets longer. Not to mention the back wheel.
Something like the Merida you had in your initial list with 140mm travel would suit well. Beefy enough to handle you but not so heavy and squishy that you're going to hate it up hills. Well, you'll still hate it up hills, but it will be the hill more than the bike.
The Giant Reign (150mm travel) has moved more towards long, slack and low with teh current model... heading towards the more techy/DH end of all-mountain, but at 150mm travel, a good platform shock, and a sold frame and wheelset, yet still reasonably pedalable, it could work well. It won't be quite as quick up hills as my Rize, or an Anthem or Trance, but with the platform engaged you won't die in 200mm of marshmallow travel either, especially with a nice low rolling resistance rear tyre like a Larsen.
Unfortunately, anything with much less travel (lets say under 130mm) is going to be a lighter frame, and therefore much less robust. For example, my Cannondale Rize in race trim is down around 11kg plus or minus a few hundred grams, I would not recommend until you are under 100kg.
Check the fine print on the Trek warranty - may not extend to wheels.
- Mugglechops
- Posts: 3037
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:51 pm
- Location: Wagga
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Mugglechops » Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:06 pm
Good point TG.trailgumby wrote:Check the fine print on the Trek warranty - may not extend to wheels.
I know Merida warrant wheels as I have had 2 replaced on my CX bike under warranty. On the Giant I have XT tubeless wheels and they have never needed touching.
- cbalfe
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
- Location: Hobart, Tas
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby cbalfe » Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:49 pm
The only problem is going to be local availability for different bikes, i don't know if there are going to be many of the models you guys mentioned available.
I dont mind the look of the X1 trance, which I can get locally - http://www.mcbains.com.au/index.php?q=node/1677
Bit I am going to take a few for a test ride, and I am not sure still if it is worth me spending the 2.5k now, or spend ~$900 on a decent hardtail 29er MTB which I could use on the road and on some small trails.
I have the day off tomorrow and I am going to go into a few stores and have a proper look around and hopefully test a few bikes out.
Ill let you guys know how I go, before I buy something this time >_>
Chris.
-
- Posts: 116
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:50 am
- Location: Perth, WA
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Magnum9 » Sun Aug 12, 2012 9:28 pm
- trailgumby
- Posts: 15469
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
- Contact:
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby trailgumby » Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:03 pm
<hint>... and leaving your brother at home this time </hint>cbalfe wrote:I have the day off tomorrow and I am going to go into a few stores and have a proper look around and hopefully test a few bikes out.
- cbalfe
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
- Location: Hobart, Tas
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby cbalfe » Tue Aug 14, 2012 1:06 pm
So I ended up buying.. only joking
I had a chat with quite a few bike shop owners, discussed exactly what I would be using the bike for and what sort of options I have.
Basically, this bike will be used abour 80% for flat trails/general riding around, and about 20% for downhill tracks.
So What I think I am looking at in terms of saving a bit of money and something to make sure that I can actually ride it properly is a 2013 29er hardtail, as for my budget the componets on a ~$1500 hardtail will be alot better than the equivilant dualie.
That doesnt mean I am discounting getting a dualie this is just the advice I have been given so far and I will be exploring my options and riding some more bikes over the next week and weekend.
The 2 bikes I did like the look of were the Orbea Alma 29 H70 - $1400, and the Giant XTC 2013 29er 2.0 - ~$1400
They both do look really good, I did have a ride on an Alma 29 H30 ($2700 bike) Just to get an idea of the form factor and I did like it, but it was a small and i found it a little cramped.
I am waiting for the other bike shop to get the Giant models in so I can take a test ride, and when I am there I will also take a look at the Giant Trance X1 and give that a ride for a comparison.
Unfortunately I don't think I can ask the first bike shop i went to to order in an Orbea for me just to test ride as they are quite a small shop and I don't think they would order it unless I was going to buy it, and I cant commit without riding it.
Still a few choices to make but I am going to take my time with this one, I did have a ride of the Norco today, with a bit of uphill and some really nice downhill, I damn near died on the uphill but my god it was silky smooth on the downhill that's for sure.
Any advice about the aformetioned models would be great, I think that going for a hardtail at this point may be good and then eventually down the track (12-18months) I can put some slicks on it and use it for the road and get a dualie XC/All mountain bike.
Chris.
- Mugglechops
- Posts: 3037
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:51 pm
- Location: Wagga
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Mugglechops » Tue Aug 14, 2012 2:31 pm
That's a great idea. You can never have enough bikescbalfe wrote: Any advice about the aformetioned models would be great, I think that going for a hardtail at this point may be good and then eventually down the track (12-18months) I can put some slicks on it and use it for the road and get a dualie XC/All mountain bike.
If you can ride the Giant go for that, good warranty and good mix of parts for the price.
-
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2011 12:18 pm
- Location: Sunny Perth
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby jemima » Sat Aug 18, 2012 12:31 pm
If you were on the mainland, I'd suggest secondhand. There's a 2012 XTC 0 (medium) on ebay going for $1200. Bargain if you're in that area.
- cbalfe
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
- Location: Hobart, Tas
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby cbalfe » Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:29 pm
I am now looking at the new Trance 2013 29er range just that they seem more versatile (I realise I am equivocating but I wont make a decision without riding one).
The one in particular I am looking at is this http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bik ... 031/57333/
$1899 and I could get it for $1799, the only thing that is concerning for me is the 2x10 gearing. Is this something that is going to be an issue do you think?
as far as I am aware the 11x36 gear system on the back with 24x38 on the front is pretty low gearing at the bottom end, so I am just wondering if anyone with experience on 2x10 can let me know how it is like.
For some perspective I have been riding on a 3x7 for a while which from looking it up has a 12-32 on the back with 48/38/28 on the front. So is my understanding correct in saying that this at the bottom end would be lower geared than my old bike? 36->24
Anyone have experience on 2x10? I would love to hear some feedback about them, apparently this is where most of the gearings are headed due to less need to change the front gears.
Chris.
- bychosis
- Posts: 7244
- Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:10 pm
- Location: Lake Macquarie
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby bychosis » Tue Aug 21, 2012 3:06 pm
If you are enjoying your off rd riding then I'd aim for a trance or similar. A 'trail' bike. A bike that is happy to pedal up hills and descend reasonable stuff and will keep you comfortable on a long ride. If its got a lock out rear shock even better for pedalling on the flats.
- cbalfe
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
- Location: Hobart, Tas
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby cbalfe » Tue Aug 21, 2012 5:10 pm
Thanks for that, by chance do you know anywhere with the formula for comparing 29er gearing to 26er gearing for drive ratios? I could probably sit down and work it out but if it is around somewhere that would be cool.bychosis wrote:Nothing wrong with 2x10. The range from high to low will probably be wider than your current 3x7. 3x10 IMO is overkill, but I'm happily riding 1x9. You can compare the drive ratios by dividing the front chainring size by the rear sprocket size. ie 24/36=0.67, 28/32=0.875, but don't forget that a 29er has bigger wheels and therefore different final drive to 26".
If you are enjoying your off rd riding then I'd aim for a trance or similar. A 'trail' bike. A bike that is happy to pedal up hills and descend reasonable stuff and will keep you comfortable on a long ride. If its got a lock out rear shock even better for pedalling on the flats.
And yeah I do like the idea of the Trance being an all rounder, just out of interest do you think it would be worth getting the Trance 29er 1 over the 2? it is about $650 difference and currently I am thinking not but I really don't know if the components are worth the extra money, I could always upgrade the components on the 2 later hrmm...
here are the 2 for comparison:
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bik ... 031/57333/
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-au/bik ... 031/57332/
Chris.
- JustJames
- Posts: 501
- Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2011 1:50 am
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby JustJames » Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:53 pm
For me, trivial as it may seem, if I were hemming and hawing between the 2, the god-awful paint scheme on the "2" would make me look closer at the "1", which by contrast has a really nice colour scheme.
(Parts of this point contain opinion.)
http://pedallingcharm.wordpress.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- trailgumby
- Posts: 15469
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
- Contact:
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby trailgumby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:25 pm
I do like the colour scheme. Short chainstays for more responsive cornering and an easier to lift front end.
- trailgumby
- Posts: 15469
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
- Contact:
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby trailgumby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:37 pm
Next ratio on 3x9 and 3x10 when you change the front ring is usually up one ring, down one back cog or vice versa. Easy to manage.
On 2x10, it's up 1 ring and down 3 cogs or vice versa. If you need to go down *more* (say as the track transitions from a steep fast descent to a pinch climb) you're working like a one-armed paper hanger. Besides sounding horrible as you crunch your way through the gears, it places a lot of stress on the chain. You can often find you stall and have to walk because your ability to stomp your way out of trouble is limited and you can't find that low gear fast enough.
Maybe you get better at that with practice and learning to anticipate better, but a lot of us older riders and mid-fielders are sticking with (or channging to) a triple up front.
It also depends on the terrain. 2x10 or even 1x10 is fine on some trails in our locality, but for others ...
- bychosis
- Posts: 7244
- Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:10 pm
- Location: Lake Macquarie
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby bychosis » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:23 pm
After having 1x9 I would recommend considering a 1x10 setup. The simplicity of one shifter is great, but you will lose a low gear or three depending on your setup and also a high gear or two. I lost one low and two high in my switch from 3x9 to 1x9 because I went from an 11-28 cassette to an 11-32 (on a 32tooth chainring, same as middle). Lost the granny ring, but gained a couple of bigger cogs. A little hardening up went along with that, but not much. I mostly used the granny/low gear because I could, not because I had to. Now I ride with 11-28 for general riding and 11-34 for enduro events so I've got a couple of lower gears for tired legs.
If I was buying new I'd go for 1x10 for a slightly wider range cassette, I havent seen 11-36 in 1x9, but its a standard 1x10.
- trailgumby
- Posts: 15469
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
- Contact:
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby trailgumby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:45 pm
I'd expect the power-to-weight won't be there for a while yet to be able to sustain 1xanything.
Give it time, though
- Mugglechops
- Posts: 3037
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:51 pm
- Location: Wagga
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Mugglechops » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:50 pm
I am running 2x9 on my Reign with 22-32 and an 11-34 cassette.
For the extra $650 I would go the higher level trance as the seatpost alone is $350. And once you use a dropper post you will love it.
- trailgumby
- Posts: 15469
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
- Contact:
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby trailgumby » Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:57 pm
The gaps between rings on your setup are much lower - 10 teeth as opposed to 14.Mugglechops wrote:I went 3x10 on my 29er HT but off road I mostly just use the middle ring so I am thinking about 2x10. But I did spend 4 years riding SS off road.
I am running 2x9 on my Reign with 22-32 and an 11-34 cassette.
For the extra $650 I would go the higher level trance as the seatpost alone is $350. And once you use a dropper post you will love it.
I generally only use the big ring on fast fire road descents, and that mainly to stop chain slap through the rough stuff and when landing the jumps off the water bars. So I reckon 22/32 would be practical for most trail riding with the chain shortened accordingly.
Agree the comments re: the dropper post. I don't have one yet, but my mates who do aren't going back to normal posts any time soon
- cbalfe
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu May 10, 2012 7:17 pm
- Location: Hobart, Tas
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby cbalfe » Tue Aug 21, 2012 10:34 pm
Pardon my ignorance but what are the benefits of a dropper post, is this like extra suspension on the seat itself?Mugglechops wrote:For the extra $650 I would go the higher level trance as the seatpost alone is $350. And once you use a dropper post you will love it.
- Mulger bill
- Super Mod
- Posts: 29060
- Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 2:41 pm
- Location: Sunbury Vic
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Mulger bill » Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:03 pm
Having the saddle at optimum height for pedaling is not the best for negotiating steep descents and roll ins, you want to get your weight as low and far back as possible. Dropping the post all the way makes it a lot easier to get low and back. Dropping it a little gets it out of your way when you're in the tight and twisty.
London Boy 29/12/2011
- trailgumby
- Posts: 15469
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm
- Location: Northern Beaches, Sydney
- Contact:
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby trailgumby » Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:44 am
-
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:23 pm
- Location: Perth, WA
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Shifter » Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:30 pm
I ride 26/38 up front with the same rear - stock '12 Trance X0 drive train. For simplicity I tend not to shift front all that often, but I find there's still a decent ratio jump. This is surprisingly most annoying when changing down to go uphill because the cadence change is weird. I'm considering a change to 1x10 with a 30 or 32 tooth front.cbalfe wrote:the only thing that is concerning for me is the 2x10 gearing. Is this something that is going to be an issue do you think?
as far as I am aware the 11x36 gear system on the back with 24x38 on the front is pretty low gearing at the bottom end, so I am just wondering if anyone with experience on 2x10 can let me know how it is like.
2010 Malvern Star Oppy A4
- Mulger bill
- Super Mod
- Posts: 29060
- Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 2:41 pm
- Location: Sunbury Vic
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Mulger bill » Wed Aug 22, 2012 11:58 pm
I could prolly get away with this as I spend the bulk of me time in the mid ring but I'm sticking with the triple for two reasons:Shifter wrote:I'm considering a change to 1x10 with a 30 or 32 tooth front.
1, as Gumby said earlier, chucking her into the big dog on the rough stuff reduces chainslap dramatically.
2, the granny lets me keep rolling as I stuff me lungs back into me chest after gutbuster pinches. I climb like Fronk descends
London Boy 29/12/2011
-
- Posts: 334
- Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2012 3:32 pm
Re: Buying my first real MTB
Postby Sharkey » Thu Aug 23, 2012 1:14 pm
Here is a gear calculator that should do what you want - Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculatorcbalfe wrote:..... by chance do you know anywhere with the formula for comparing 29er gearing to 26er gearing for drive ratios? I could probably sit down and work it out but if it is around somewhere that would be cool.
Chris.
I personally don't think 2x10 has enough top end gearing, but then I do some fast fire trails and ride on the road a bit to get to the trails. I run 26" with 3x9. 26/36/48 on the front and 11-32 on the back. 48-11 is good for 60+ kmh. I ride with a guy who has a 29er with standard 3x9 gearing and his top gear, 44-11 with 29" wheel, is about the same or slightly higher than my 48-11 on a 26" wheel.
For your first real bike I think you will get used to 2x10 and then see what rides you do, how fit you are and then decide whether you need different gearing.
- General Australian Cycling Topics
- Info / announcements
- Buying a bike / parts
- General Cycling Discussion
- The Bike Shed
- Cycling Health
- Cycling Safety and Advocacy
- Women's Cycling
- Bike & Gear Reviews
- Cycling Trade
- Stolen Bikes
- Bicycle FAQs
- Serious Biking
- Audax / Randonneuring
- Retro biking
- Commuting
- MTB
- Recumbents
- Fixed Gear/ Single Speed
- Track
- Electric Bicycles
- Cyclocross and Gravel Grinding
- Dragsters / Lowriders / Cruisers
- Children's Bikes
- Cargo Bikes and Utility Cycling
- Road Racing
- Road Biking
- Training
- Time Trial
- Triathlon
- International and National Tours and Events
- Cycle Touring
- Touring Australia
- Touring Overseas
- Touring Bikes and Equipment
- Australia
- Western Australia
- New South Wales
- Queensland
- South Australia
- Victoria
- ACT
- Tasmania
- Northern Territory
- Country & Regional
- The Market Place
- Member to Member Bike and Gear Sales
- Want to Buy, Group Buy, Swap
- My Bikes or Gear Elsewhere
- Cycling Brands
- Cannondale
- Garmin
- Giant
- Shimano
- Trek
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users
- All times are UTC+11:00
- Top
- Delete cookies
About the Australian Cycling Forums
The Australian Cycling Forums is a welcoming community where you can ask questions and talk about the type of bikes and cycling topics you like.
Bicycles Network Australia
Forum Information
Connect with BNA
This website uses affiliate links to retail platforms including ebay, amazon, proviz and ribble.