Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
Some are faced, then painted like Surly.
"Faced" is when the ends of the BB shell are machined flat by a special tool which gets the BB ends square. Necessary for external bearings apparently, but I've used external bearings on non-faced (old) BB shells with no problems. I just sanded off the paint.
Getting the LBS to face a BB only costs $15 or so. I wasn't overly impressed with the finish I got back after facing last time I got it done.
Me 4 - I want to know who I can send the bill to for leading me astray
Reman started the thread, so I'm blaming him.
Mrs JustJames has worked out that I am sneaking a new bike into the fleet by buying it in bits.
At least when she asks "Did you buy another bike?" I can say "Nope!" in all honesty as I won't have bought a bike. I'll have bought a frame, a groupset, hubs, spokes, rims etc, but not a bike.
@Reman, please let me have an address I can send my final invoice to.
just buy 2 lots, reman will give you the interest too
i'll cough up postage
Thanks guys! All I need is more grief with Rewoman when unexplained invoices turned up I'm pretty sure there are regular MoF conventions where they all meet up, swap notes, to see if we are sneaking in purchases that weren't authorised
Dammit, that's how I should have done it! Unfortunately I blurted it out as a whole new bike build. Though I'm guessing she would have guessed something was up when I went from riding a Blue bike to a Red one
As for the facing of the BB shell, the red enamel paint goes over the edge of the shell and finishes unevenly before the opening to the BB. If you run your finger over it you can feel the uneveness. And for about $15 it's worth getting it tidied up at the LBS. I'll try and take some before and after shots to show the difference. But if you check out this Campy installation video you'll see a facing tool in action. Now that I think about it, I probably should have stated when I ordered it that I would like it faced.
It's the 60cm frame, which is the largest size they do. I'm 187cm (91cm inseam, 69cm trunk, 65cm arms, 36cm forearm), so I think the fit will be good. It has the same top tube as my flat bar but the extra reach to the drop bars will make it feel less cramped.
As for the weight, I'll see what I can do. The specs say 1.8kg for the frame and 500g for the forks, so 2.3kg all up (if per spec )
Thanks for all the support and advice too, big thing now is to push the proposal through the MoF. Though I have a feeling that saying a bunch of guys on the intarwebs want me to do it may not hold much water
you could always try "look what i found!" when the groupset turns up....
another option: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/874 ... -adventure
being steel, i'll pass
and another: http://www.specialized.com/au/gb/bikes/ ... pact#specs
or should these go in the 2013 thread?
Could you buy this as just a frame?
Have ordered the hubs and they are being delivered from the US as I type. Brandon from BikeHubStore was extremely helpful, checking that a Campagnolo freehub would fit on the rear hub before selling to me. They are black 32H/32H 6 bolt MTB hubs weighing 162g/252g, front and rear.
Most importantly I've decided on a red/black theme and the bar tape is the most important part
I found this fizik dual tape
Which can look really really bad
Or, really classy
This is getting odd...I am also going for a black/red colour scheme.
Not a fan of that Fi:zik 2 colour tape, but I'm sure I've seen a bike done with two colours wrapped together.
Once I saw the second pic, I went searching the intarwebs for bar tape with the red stitching without the red strip (which gives the unclassy candy bar look).
Unfortunately no dice, unless someone knows of one.
So the second pic they actually reverse wrapped it so the red strip is hidden and only the red stitching shows, ingenious!
I'd missed the post where you said where you'd bought them, and thought that they looked like the Novatech hubs from BDop Cycling.
Ah, had a look at the Novatecs and they aren't them. These have largish flanges at both ends and flat through the hub body. I'm guessing that since they are both cartridge based hubs the end caps would be similar.
Having a squizz around I would guess they are these Bitex hubs.
I see the Novatec disc hubs mentioned a few times in the thread, thought I'd give my impression after commuting on them (D812) with my Merida CX4 for the the past 5 months/4000km.
1) They seem to spin incredibly well. Yeah, totally subjective, but spin the wheels with the bike upside down and they go for ages and ages.
2) The freehub is completely knackered after the winter rains here in Perth. Not exactly what I was expecting with a CX bike, and quite disappointed. Been getting quite a bit of slipping for the past week or so, took it apart this weekend and the pawls and the spots they sit in are completely corroded. Bit better after cleaning, but still not perfect.
Not even sure I'm going to bother getting it replaced under warranty, if it's just going to fail that fast again. Even the 10 year old Alivio hub in my MTB handled last year's rain without a complaint. I'll probably just use a buffing wheel on my dremel to remove/smooth out the corrosion, clean it up spotless, and run it until it fails. Then replace it with a Shimano XT hub later on, or something that can actually handle some rain. Just looked up those Bitex hubs, seems like people are quite happy with them, and the prices look to be very good.
Good to know - I've got Novatec hubs on order, so I'll grease them generously before I install them and hopefully that will keep them working.
My bike will be used for a once a week commute, unless it's raining, so that part of its life will be gentle...but I'm also contemplating trying CX...which may be a whole lot less gentle.
Yeah, I 'm sure it was the rain that did them in, since there was water inside the freehub when I pulled it off. The seal was still intact, so I'm just guessing it's not a super tight fitting seal. Totally fine I'm sure for normal riding, but the past month or two I've been hit with an incredible amount of rain on my commutes. In fact, I'd guess the hub would be totally fine for even the most gruelling CX stuff, since it's a lot easier to keep mud out with a seal than pure water.
Also, be prepared for the unholy smell of gear oil when you do take them apart. Its been a while since I replaced the gear oil in my car, so I'd forgotten just how bad old gear oil smells. Though it did mean it was quite easy to tell which oil to use when I put it back together.
And also, the sealed bearings themselves seem to handle the rain without a hitch. Still rolling as smooth as the did when I got them. Just the freehub that seems to be the weak spot.
From what I've read a lot of hubs come from the factory under-greased, which may have been a factor in them collecting water and corroding so quickly.
If you end up getting the XT hubs, I would definitely pull them apart and grease them up. Shimanos are pretty notorious for not having enough.
It always amuses me when I see people wanting loud freehubs, or I hear them on the roads. All I can think is that the freehubs will be lucky to last 500km with the lack of grease they must be running. You can barely hear my 105s ratchet.
Similar experience with my CX Bike. Wheels built around NSBikes Roller Coaster Pro Hubs. Rear Hub bearings shot after ~5000km (6 months), Freehub and Axle totally knackered after 6500km (cassette wobbled everywhere because the freehub was not centred due to the bent axle, and it kept slipping off and throwing the gear indexing out). I ordered some new hubs (Shimano XT as cheap replacements, plus some Hope Pro 2 Evo Hubs to use on a later new wheelset).
My initial feeling is that the Shimano XT Hubs are much better than the NSBikes Hub, even though they cost 1/3 the amount. I bought an extra set of these hubs to rebuild my old commuter wheels into a Disc Set to use for CX, and the Hope Pro 2 Hubs will be used on my new Commuter Wheelset, with my current commuter set to be used as spares (I was off my commuter for two weeks the last time I had an issue, and as I rely on my bike a spare wheelset was the only real option). I haven't ordered the spokes yet as I am just waiting on some time to set up my workshop and find some spare time!
The plan with the Hope Pro 2 Hubs is to get the full bearing service kit and keep them as my main wheels. When the bearings need replacing I swap out the wheels with the spares to give me some time to do the job. Having two young kids means I only get 30 minutes here and there to do servicing. I do ~12,000km a year on the commuter bike so I need parts that don't self destruct
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '09 Electra Townie Original 21D
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