Workshop tales, trials and disasters. Maintenance tips, techniques and myths. Technical discussion, description and outright lies
by Rex » Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:47 pm
jasonc wrote:Rex wrote:so what are you going to/using?
Bought a bottle of Purple Extreme a while ago and been using that. Excellent stuff lasts 400-600 km/hr. More recently I impulse purchased some Morgan Blue oil as I didn't want to wait overnight and this is also excellent. I'm slightly preferring the Morgan Blue, but I haven't done enough km's with it to test it's lastability. Chain sounds and feels amazing but. Easier to apply and easier to source (can get it locally)
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by Forum Ads » Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:46 am
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Forum Ads
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by steve-waters » Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:46 am
Morgan Blue (Course)
Roadie: BeOne Black, SRAM Force, TWE 50mm full carbon clinchers, Vértebrae ceramic cable housings MTB: Chin29er, Fox Terralogic, XT, 3T and TWE wheels ex-MTB now commuter: Cannondale F900 (CAAD 4), Headshok, TWE wheels, XT and Elixr CR
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by Thoglette » Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:04 pm
Thoglette wrote:Never mind, I am doing my mea cuplas and melting paraffin as I type to lube my new chain the proper way.
Re did the lube yesterday - chain still had a coating of That Black Dust(tm) which chains get. I got really lazy and lay the chain down in a shallow dish, popped the block of wax on top and whacked the whole lot into the oven at 90C for an hour or so. Dirt sank to the bottom, chain came out clean(er), a quick wipe down and back on the bike before it had cooled. Shallow dish is back on the shelf waiting for next time.
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by zues » Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:55 pm
Hi Thoglette, Have you tried Slick 50 or do you use straight paraffin? I have used a mixture of paraffin and beeswax thats OK but the chain develops rust over winter.
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by Thoglette » Sun Sep 09, 2012 4:48 pm
zues wrote:Hi Thoglette, Have you tried Slick 50 or do you use straight paraffin? I have used a mixture of paraffin and beeswax thats OK but the chain develops rust over winter.
As lazy as always I just grabbed a handful of candles and melted them down. I do expect that there's a portion of beeswax in there, given the nature of some of the candles. The main driver for me re-waxing was seeing just a touch of rust on the outside edges of some links - probably where the wax struggles hardest to hang on. With the tray-in-the-oven method it is so unbelievably easy (and safe) that I'll probably re-wax more often.
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Thoglette
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by jaseyjase » Wed Sep 12, 2012 1:47 pm
anyone tried using 'motocycle' chain lube? ive got a can of motul chain lube sitting on the shelf, thought i might give it a whirl
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by clackers » Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:52 pm
jaseyjase wrote:anyone tried using 'motocycle' chain lube? ive got a can of motul chain lube sitting on the shelf, thought i might give it a whirl
Isn't that stuff supposed to be too thick?
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by yarravalleyplodder » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:09 pm
I started using the morgan blue syn lube last week, handled last sundays wet quite well
2011 Felt F75 2012 Fuji Nevada 2.0
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by MarkG » Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:58 pm
Finishline ceramic for me
S-Works Venge
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by open roader » Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:10 pm
jaseyjase wrote:anyone tried using 'motocycle' chain lube? ive got a can of motul chain lube sitting on the shelf, thought i might give it a whirl
Molasses in a can.... Very low viscosity and dries to a tacky / elastic finish on the chain allowing dirt / debris to stick like the proverbial to a blanket. Just the thing for motocycle chains that spin very fast and fling off anything other than a sticky lube but horrid on a light weight bike chain in my experience..... 
"Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana" - Groucho Marx
I'm in training.........for middle age.........
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open roader
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by orbeas » Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:23 pm
+1, sure makes a mess on a tredley
Orbea Euskaltel:Ultegra,Durace,RS80 Orbea Erandio Hybrid
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by Thoglette » Sun Mar 03, 2013 10:06 pm
Thoglette wrote:With the tray-in-the-oven method it is so unbelievably easy (and safe) that I'll probably re-wax more often.
Thought the bike chain was a bit noisy. Horrified to discover I'd run the bike for 990km between waxing  So much for "more often"
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by 0candles » Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:13 pm
Rock n Roll Miracle Red 1:4 parts hot water to get the gunk and the grit out with the Park Tools chain cleaner then wipe thoroughly clean with and old piece of towel before the FInishline dry wax for our relatively dry Perth Climate. When Its wet I've used everything from Finishline wet to 3 in 1 household oil from Bunnings. A guy I know who used to be a Cyclocross mech just washed it in Diesel fuel and that was it!
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by il padrone » Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:21 pm
Thoglette wrote:The main driver for me re-waxing was seeing just a touch of rust on the outside edges of some links.
Only on the edge ?? Soft The chains I use are usually nickel plated side-plates so rust there is extremely unusual. But after a wet winter ride the rollers can often look quite rusty if the chain gets dry of lube. This is simply rubbed off with a bit of lube and some running though.
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by Bob_TAS » Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:22 pm
Inox for attack, White Lightning for defence
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by il padrone » Tue Mar 19, 2013 10:24 pm
0candles wrote:3 in 1 household oil from Bunnings. A guy I know who used to be a Cyclocross mech just washed it in Diesel fuel and that was it!
In the wet!! That stuff runs away and hides under a rock at the sight of rain...... leaving you with a chain-full of canaries 
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by mick243 » Thu Mar 21, 2013 3:01 pm
I'm a big fan of wet lubes, and cleaning often - rather than trying to make a "dry" lube last.... a while back I came across a supply of the same stuff the army use to lube thier rifles with - "CLP" they call it, or OX-18 / PX/18 to the rest of us. it makes a great chain lube - but it IS messy. its also waterproof run your chain through mud if you like, and still no canaries. I'm currently trying out another product called "TW25" which is a teflon based grease - the one I have is an aerosol version thinned with isopropyl alcohol - it cleans niceley as you spray on, almost dries, and is waterproof - the US navy use it for all sorts of stuff where its exposed to salt water spray... it turns up on line (AT) ebay occasionally, no idea where you'd find it on a shelf - maybe gun shops?
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by mitzikatzi » Fri Mar 22, 2013 3:59 pm
I see now. CLP just means Cleaner, Lubricate and Preservative. I have seen Froglube recommended on other US based forums.
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by mick243 » Fri Mar 22, 2013 4:17 pm
it very well may be a different brand of the same stuff....
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