Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
24 posts • Page 1 of 1
Gee I thought this would be easier this time. My knee is REALLY hating the MTB geometry, looks like I will probably cope better with a road bike but what is out there with the rack mounting points? Specifically don't want to focus on the tourer market. I like going faster than that! Discs or not, I don't care anymore. Maybe.
Check these out
http://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes/ro ... ries/1_2/#
I have an older one (Trek 1000) It seem to still have the mudguard mounts on the front fork and the chainstay mounts for mudguards and racks but I can't see the top mounts in the photo, but that doesn't mean they are not there. Might be worth popping into a Trek dealer and having a look.
I think the Cubes have all the rack mounts too.
Not actually a matter for seat fore-and-aft or height?
Another option for your roadie without mount points. Topeak do a 9kg seatpost rack, as long as the post is alloy or only has a carbon facing.
As long as you only need a rear rack then one of these should do the job.
http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/roa ... librium-20
For 2013 it is available in titanium as well as steel.
Too old to live, too slow to die.
Re: fit... I pushed the seat back 1cm and it helped a lot, but my commute is 20km each way. I managed 70 at a decent pace on my new Madone a couple weeks back, but my knee turned to hell on the MTB. I can't physically push the bike properly with the MTB geometry (it's more a sit down and shut up, rather than a bend over and think about England position) and my wife commented that all my muscles are directed towards road bike, not MTB/hybrid. The ideal "fit" position on the MTB is so specific that it's not worth persevering with. It was a 300 dollar bike - we just got the tax back, and we'll save whatever I spend on the bike in 6 months for train tickets If the body can handle it.
I don't really want to take the carbon monster to work, it's just a bit too expensive and a bit too precious to be grinding it into the dust. I know. I'm a princess
The 1.5 alleges to have rack points, but I can't see them either. It's runout time, I'll give Charles at Rouse Hill a call. Might give my cousin a call too, he's looking to offload a Madone 1.5 for future upgrade, advantage of the family being tall together
Unsure on the Genesis geo.... might need to stay local to ensure I get fit properly. That whole support the LBS thing seems to be working for me right now...
I am pretty sure the giant defy 2 and 3 have rack points.
The Kinesis T2 frames do (Wiggle, CRC etc). Consider a cyclocross (with discs, if you ride in the rain) for commuting, you should be able to mount a rack to them.
Racks and discs don't belong on a road bike. If you need either, then you've chosen the wrong tool for the job.
Not all roadies are created equal... we aren't talking about a Venge/Spiv, but a quick bike that can handle commutes. Plus I don't like backpacks My experience with the previous quick commuter, the Kona Honky Inc, showed me that the geometry is easily "too relaxed". I'd put TT shorties on there to get extra speed. I'd consider a TT bike if they came with racks
I know a lot of these bikes have 'rack points', but they're just 'guard stay points' masquerading as utilitarian. Unless its got top eyes on the outside of the stays, it's always a compromise.
MY RIDES: My Velospace Profile
Don't look peoples, cover your childrens eyes. Oh the humanity...
Quick poll: Should that pic be on the list with the polish team and mankini pics?
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
its fast enough for me to not be in a massive rush to get a dedicated road bike. Front and back mounts.
Stock it comes in at around $1.5k, though you might get a better result if you get the frameset and build up to your preferred componentry.
I think Soma frames also have rack mounts
That's terrifying. Unless its ridden in a recumbent posture.
Any bike with wheels as fugly as those should be on that list.
Too old to live, too slow to die.
Any bike can be a "quick bike" with a fit pilot.
On a proper commuter (with rack, muguards, lights, etc) you will get more satisfaction out of pummelling the pretenders.
However, the difference in average speed is going to be a couple of minutes at most, probably a lot less... seconds even. If you go a CX you will have a sturdier bike with decent wheels (probably) that are not going to break spokes because you carry to much weight on them (rack + bag etc).
This pilot only has so much fitness to share around, and a few minutes is definitely worth the expense. Can't get back the time with the family.
I didn't notice a problem with the Kona as far as sturdy went. Only problems I had were self inflicted. I'm no Clydesdale though, 80kgs including bag on a heavy day.
That Trek is definitely on the mankini list. I actually had a revulsive reaction when I saw it. I guess no one told him that sitting up is going to hurt your aero more than wheels, frame and overfilled wallet put together?
Where does a bloke find a Surly in Sydney?
Its been a while since I moved from Sydney but a friend has had a good experiences with Cheeky Transport recently:
http://www.cheekytransport.com.au/stuff ... kes/surly/
A search of their blog reveals a few interesting builds:
It sounds obvious, but do make sure to check out the geometry on their sizing. They can run a bit large.
As others have said, look at a 'cross bike. You normally get facilities for a good rack, full size panniers, and bigger tyres that make commuting an easier ride - plus you already start with an advantage in commuter racing because even if you just hold onto a roadbike with a fully-loaded 'cross bike, that counts for a win!
I also find the 'cross levers useful for noodling along with commuting or on shopping trips, and prefer cantis to calipers in the rain (I had the option of discs for almost the same price but preferred to save 900g - personal preference as I have never run out of brakes on the road in years of commuting and some time as a courier).
The 'cross bike can do anything from playing on BMX tracks to touring and road racing - I think 'cross bikes got second and 6th in Paris-Roubaix this year so they aren't too slow!
There are many types of racing cyclists. There is the sprinter, the rouleur, the stagiaire, the danser, the descender.... sadly, I'm a mediocre.
2003 Cervelo P2K time trial bike
2010 Merida Cyclocross 4
2008 Giant SS/track
2008 Vivente Como roadie
I got a Boardman CX Pro from wiggle for this very reason. Has a rack, mudguards and a pannier (or panniers), goes great with the full carbon wheels
The CX bike ends up about 9.5-9.8kg before I added stuff and about 13kg with rack, guards, bag etc. A far cry from my carbon road bike but I've found that on average over my 24km commute the difference between the loaded CX bike and me feeling awesome on my road bike is about 5 minutes or about 10% of the trip time. For sure the road bike is more fun to ride and just feels so much easier but the times don't lie and the CX bike is no slouch, plus the ability to ride over crappy terrain and carry tons of stuff should I need to.
What about Specialized's Secteur??
I bought the WSD version for my commuter bike as I wanted to put a rack on it and it has the rack mounts and I understand that you can put mud guards on as well...tight fit but doable apparently.
Cheaper than most CX bikes!
Done 8 days of commuting on it so far, seems to be handling it OK. 25 Hardshell Bontragers couldn't stop the staple going through the tube for a slow leak. Very saddening
I'm going to assault the mudguards, the LBS tried and couldn't succeed. I HAVE been getting some awful rubbing noises from the back despite their best efforts. The QR collar suggested by Nobody was the ticket. My Fluid and this 2.1 have become symbiotically connected through various parts. Grandpa's Axe indeed!
24 posts • Page 1 of 1
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