chucknitro wrote:Please tell me you knocked it on something solid...
I couldn't get back sooner. It hasn't failed of its own accord however I didn't feel for that the force of the impact into soft dirt should be enough to fracture a $60 mount. As an aluminium mount it isn't as malleable as steel so will fracture rather than deform, though exactly at the point where it failed is a screw that goes through the middle, so a weak point.
On the roadbike I specifically mounted it under than handlebars once I found a way to get through the cable spagetti and have a clear view.
In short I felt that the knock it did receive was quite light to have this result considering it is a $60 mount however will have to await the verdict and see if the retailer agrees, I did provide a photo and they did ask me to send it in.
I'm not sure how heavy those cameras are so not sure how tight you need to do up the clamp. Ideally you want it only just tight enough so it wont move on its own. But also loose enough so that it can move if its hit. Having the brake levers set like that saved me plenty of broken levers on dirt bikes and a few times on MTBs.
I bought myself a GoPro HD hero 2 a couple of months ago and then promptly purchased two K-Edge mounts soon after. I have one for the handlebars and one for under the saddle which provides me with a couple of different options during rides to shoot from. So far so good although I do get a bit of vibration and slight shudder on rougher road surfaces - not sure how I'd avoid this.
Still have a bit to learn but hoping to be able to showcase riding up here on some lovely quiet roads in the Snowies
2012 Wilier Gran Turismo 2012 Specialized Epic FSR Comp 29er
bella26 wrote:So far so good although I do get a bit of vibration and slight shudder on rougher road surfaces - not sure how I'd avoid this.
I was just dancing away to the music there, you should have seen me.
On the vibration, when the road is bumpy there isn't much you can do with a bar or saddle mounted camera. What the K-Edge do well is eliminate flex which is a problem in standard go-pro mounts and so the best case is that the camera moves with the bike rather than having a flexible mount that ads movement and vibration. What I do notice is though there is shudder, there is not the classic rolling shutter jello effect as much.
Once I get a new K-Edge GoBig I will continue trialling mounts, ie. directly mounted on the bars and also with dampening material. I will also try out some vibration/shake elimination software but for now can saw that the youtube option doesn't work - it tends to blur the footage.
The way to avoid the bumps is the chest harness which is smoother though also has its deficits, short of going for expensive, cumbersome, professional steady cam solutions.
Baldy wrote:I'm not sure how heavy those cameras are so not sure how tight you need to do up the clamp. Ideally you want it only just tight enough so it wont move on its own. But also loose enough so that it can move if its hit. Having the brake levers set like that saved me plenty of broken levers on dirt bikes and a few times on MTBs.
I hear what you are saying, and yes it was tight though to avoid movement it also needs to be tight. As least with a contour and a standard contour handlebar mount I trialled, the movement really affected the quality of the footage. My learning experience is to take the trouble to mount it underneath the handlebars (which I do on my roadbike), this keeps it out of the way and is also more subtle so you arn't riding around as the 'dude with the camera'.
The Programmable Scheduler combines the features of the Time Lapse Intervalometer with a programmable timer capable of turning the camera on and off according to 18 separate programs which can repeat daily or weekly. Events can be scheduled up to one week in advance.
The Programmable Scheduler plugs into the back of the GoPro HD Hero and Hero 2 cameras and requires no additional power.
GoPro Time Lapse Intervalometer
The Cam-Do Timer Control is designed to turn the camera on and off to maximize the battery usage. In most cases, the camera will take about 2,000 images on a single battery charge. These images can be spread over hours, days or even weeks.
The Timer control fits in the GoPro extended waterproof back and requires no external connections or battery.
GoPro Motion Detector
The Cam-Do Motion Detectors trigger the GoPro HD Hero or HD Hero 2 camera when movement is sensed in front of the camera.
The motion detector uses the same board as the time lapse controller and includes all the features of the timer control as well as the motion detector unit.
There are 2 models available. The PIR unit detects the infra-red (heat) generated by moving people and large animals. The X-Band microwave unit detects movement using doppler radar and works through glass and detects objects/reptiles, which are not hot.
GoPro Remote Controls
Cam-Do offers both wired and wireless remote controls for the GoPro HD Hero and GoPro HD HERO2 cameras.
The wired remote comes with a 1 meter cable and plugs into a stereo jack with a short cable which plugs into the back of the camera. The cable can be extended to any length using standard off-the-shelf stereo audio extension cables available anywhere.
The new wireless remote control attaches to the back of the camera and fits inside the GoPro extended back doors and features one click programmable length video clip capture.
USB Back Door Cable
Using the USB Back Door power cable liberates you from the battery limitations of the camera. The GoPro camera can be used for time lapse photography lasting for hours or days without the need for an additional Time Lapse Controller.
The USB cable connects to any suitable USB charger (1000 mA or more recommended) or you can use a portable power source, such as the 5000 mAH Battery Packs available from Amazon. In tests the 5000 mAH battery pack ran the GoPro HD Hero camera for more than 12 hours of continuous shooting.
A Solar Battery Charger can be used for extended power in situations where mains power is not available.
***Looking For Information About Bicycle Cameras ***
KonaCommuter wrote:Wow - I think that you have added a gopro to my wish list
They are great cameras and well worth the money. There is a lot you can do with them besides using them on your bike
This is why I bought one in the end over other options. I have been using my GoPro as my default camera as I travel around Europe both on and off the bike. Although it isn't perfect in all scenarios and lighting conditions, it is more than enough for pictures during the day and the photos are very high quality. I am also a keen waterman (bodyboarding, surfing, bodysurfing etc) so the GoPro will be put to work in this situation as well. I'm looking forward to ghetto mounting the camera and filming some tube time once I get back to Oz.
Starting to play around with some different angles for the k-edge handlebar mount. Here's the latest vid I've put together which shows this off - and some of our awesome quiet riding roads here in the Snowies
2012 Wilier Gran Turismo 2012 Specialized Epic FSR Comp 29er
Here's a vid I cut together of a bunch ride that I do in Northern Sydney (NSCC Le Rêve)
As it's a 2 hour ride, I've sped it up a bit (12x), which is a bit nuts, but at normal speed I'd rather watch paint dry. It's uploaded in 1080p. Oh, and I stuffed up adding the titles at the beginning, but after rendering the video for several hours I didn't feel like going back again. Uploading the stupid thing took yonks too
I used the GoPro Hero 2 with the K-edge mount. I have the normal speed video which I should upload (if only the Bobbin Head descent as it's the most interesting bit).
Finally bit the bullet and got a Go Pro to replace the Contour. The Hero2 just has better video quality and the mounting options are better, along with the mounting system itself. Not sure if I'll sell the Contour or hang onto it.
I slowed the video around the corners and also chose a speed which is fast enough to avoid too much boredom (120 minutes into 20 minutes), but still slow enough to see the profile. It should be said it is certainly not general viewing, rather relevant for people interested in previewing the profile for the New Zealand cycling event.
GoPro Hero Original, mounted on a car (front grill) with two cable ties.
Hi Guys, With 70 pages of great info, I don't really have the time to trawl through all of them unfortunately. My situation is this, I lost 100kg in body weight 3 years ago, kept it off (mostly) and next month will be taking part in the 1200 KMS for Kids ride from Sydney to Brisbane. I'd like to mount a HD Video Camera either helmet or on the bike to record the ride, I have plentiful access to SD cards so that's not an issue, what about battery capacity/length, weight/aerodynamics? What do you recommend?
meridaman wrote:Hi Guys, With 70 pages of great info, I don't really have the time to trawl through all of them unfortunately. My situation is this, I lost 100kg in body weight 3 years ago, kept it off (mostly) and next month will be taking part in the 1200 KMS for Kids ride from Sydney to Brisbane. I'd like to mount a HD Video Camera either helmet or on the bike to record the ride, I have plentiful access to SD cards so that's not an issue, what about battery capacity/length, weight/aerodynamics? What do you recommend?
I dunno who's gonna watch that much footage back But anyways, each to their own
I don't recommend helmet mount for a drop bar roadie. Every time you stand up to pedal or hit the drops the camera is looking at the road, and then back up again. Makes you sea sick watching it!
For the GoPro (the one I bought), I've found the best bet is to mount it on the bars as near to the stem as possible - I've tried mounting at the end of the drops but the vibration is awful. There's a GoPro mount or the K-Edge one which is pricey, but pretty darn good. I've found the camera doesn't move at all over bumps where it will slightly on the plastic gopro mount.
A battery backpac will cost less than $50 delivered from Daves Discount Motors (google it, and google for discount codes ) It will give you about 3.5 hours or so recording time total. You can also buy spare batteries for less than $20 (each good for up to 2 hours or so full HD recording)
Thanks for the tips Dave, do you guys find the weight of the Go Pro an issue? I won't be watching it back in full lol... Media request and what we'll do is play the whole ride back in about 6-10 minutes with some motivational tunes and interviews with people about me doing the ride who knew what I was like before and mix some before photo's in there...
meridaman, I find the weight of the go pro on the helmet for longer than 15 minutes to be annoying, I still notice it for shorter trips and while the POV can be nice, for comfortable mounting then on the body the chest mount (so I hear) is best - otherwise directly on the bike.
The GoPros are not heavy as such but still heavy enough to be noticable and they catch more wind than a compact side mounted contour. Have a look at this video, it could give you some ideas for mounting and angles: New Zealand Cycling Video
Though I havn't had much time to play with it, the remote for the GoPro is really handy. You don't need to film the whole time so rather than trying to fiddle with the camera while riding or worse, stopping to turn it on or off, the remote does this, turn it on/off as well as start/stop recording. On my older GoPro Hero Original I am getting more than two hours filming time though for longer day rides would pick the parts I wanted to film. With a remote strapped conveniently on the handlebars this is easy.
AUbicycles wrote:meridaman, I find the weight of the go pro on the helmet for longer than 15 minutes to be annoying, I still notice it for shorter trips and while the POV can be nice, for comfortable mounting then on the body the chest mount (so I hear) is best - otherwise directly on the bike.
Yep. I was wearing my HD2 the other day while cycling in the Eifel National Park. Had it on for about 10 minutes down a downhill section and the weight was starting to get annoying after that time. Definitely wouldn't want to be wearing it for any longer than needed. Although the POV footage does look pretty cool at 1080HD. I was wearing the headband mount though, so all the weight is at the front of your head. I think that if it were mounted to the top of a helmet it would be more balanced and less noticeable.
After cycling and touring around Europe 'au natural' for the past 8 weeks anything more than a cycle cap on my head starts to get annoying. So for those who are used to wearing those weird looking foam hats on their heads might not be as bothered by the weight and bulk as I. Not sure how I will adapt when I get back to Australia.
one of the reasons I went Contour Roam and not GoPro is primarily the profile of the unit. admittedly I use it only for moto riding, so less drag is paramount, plus every time I see a moto rider with a GoPro it just doesn't look right. its like an afterthought.
Life is not about waiting for the rain to pass.....it's about learning to dance (or ride) in the rain. - anonymous
meridaman wrote:Thanks for the tips Dave, do you guys find the weight of the Go Pro an issue? I won't be watching it back in full lol... Media request and what we'll do is play the whole ride back in about 6-10 minutes with some motivational tunes and interviews with people about me doing the ride who knew what I was like before and mix some before photo's in there...
Yeah, the weight is an issue. I was happy enough on a short commute though I needed to keep the helmet done up tight to stop it wobbling around. If you want a helmet mounted cam the Contour seems to be the better option. I have two moto riders near me at work and both have the contour for that reason.
the weight/aero issue is pretty minimal once it's mounted on the bars though. i wouldn't even notice it's there.
+1 to the wifi backpac. I don't have one but they're dead nifty. It's worth noting that you can either use the wifi backpac or the battery one - not both.
Oh, and check this out if you're worried about durability!