Removing triple-clamp forks from Giant Warp
- ozlegacy
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:41 am
- Location: Sydney
Removing triple-clamp forks from Giant Warp
Postby ozlegacy » Tue May 20, 2008 2:37 pm
I stripped down the old Warp last night to get it ready for paint removal and a new shiny powder coat (it's a project for the GF put some new shiny bits on it and paint it pink)
Anyway I got all parts off but for life of me can't get the forks off, they are a RST 381DH using a Chromoly, triple-clamp crown according to http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/Bike ... &Type=bike I've included a couple of pictures below, any help on removing these would be much appreciated.
Click on pics below to make them bigger
Anyway I got all parts off but for life of me can't get the forks off, they are a RST 381DH using a Chromoly, triple-clamp crown according to http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/Bike ... &Type=bike I've included a couple of pictures below, any help on removing these would be much appreciated.
Click on pics below to make them bigger
- ozlegacy
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:41 am
- Location: Sydney
Postby ozlegacy » Tue May 20, 2008 2:42 pm
Second question if anyone can shed some light, is can you remove the lower part of the frame (yellow bit) ?
It swivels on a part circled in red on the pic below, it had two screw in type plugs which I've removed but I can't get the yellow part over the tube they sit and spin on, not sure if it was designed to come apart? Would just make it much easier to strip and paint if I can get them apart.
Thanks again
It swivels on a part circled in red on the pic below, it had two screw in type plugs which I've removed but I can't get the yellow part over the tube they sit and spin on, not sure if it was designed to come apart? Would just make it much easier to strip and paint if I can get them apart.
Thanks again
- nzdans
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- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:53 pm
- Location: Belconnen, ACT
Postby nzdans » Tue May 20, 2008 11:05 pm
Alchemist is on the money for the forks-if you see any signs of corrosion around the steerer tube give it some WD-40 or similar a day before the whacking commences.
Regarding the rear swingarm it will come off for sure and you should be able to remove any bearings/hardware as well so you give it a factory looking powder coat.
Can you please take some close up shots of the fastenins that hold the swing arm onto its pivot? This should help us find the answer you are looking for. Oh-douse it in WD as well for the sake of preparation...
Regarding the rear swingarm it will come off for sure and you should be able to remove any bearings/hardware as well so you give it a factory looking powder coat.
Can you please take some close up shots of the fastenins that hold the swing arm onto its pivot? This should help us find the answer you are looking for. Oh-douse it in WD as well for the sake of preparation...
- ozlegacy
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:41 am
- Location: Sydney
Postby ozlegacy » Wed May 21, 2008 10:45 am
Ok so the steerer tube is the pipe coming out of the headset on the top? whack that downwards I assume?
Glad to hear I can get the swing arm off, I have included some more pics below hope this helps, if you need anything specific let me know, thanks for everyones help on this.
If you click on the images I have left them in the orginal 10 megapixel format for higher detail
Glad to hear I can get the swing arm off, I have included some more pics below hope this helps, if you need anything specific let me know, thanks for everyones help on this.
If you click on the images I have left them in the orginal 10 megapixel format for higher detail
- familyguy
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- ozlegacy
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:41 am
- Location: Sydney
Postby ozlegacy » Wed May 21, 2008 2:43 pm
Thanks I thoguht that might be the case and I've whacked it lightly and it doesn't budge, the frame is 10 years old though so obviously might be seized, will try the WD40 and a bit more force with the rubber malletfamilyguy wrote:Does that central spindle drive out of the frame?
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- nzdans
- Posts: 121
- Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:53 pm
- Location: Belconnen, ACT
Postby nzdans » Wed May 21, 2008 10:36 pm
Wow, great pictures!
It looks like we're on the right track here-if you don't have a heat gun hair dryers get things pretty damn hot. It would be an idea to get in touch with your local Giant dealer to see if they can track down some pivot bushings (if you haven't already);there appears to be a bit of free play there
It looks like we're on the right track here-if you don't have a heat gun hair dryers get things pretty damn hot. It would be an idea to get in touch with your local Giant dealer to see if they can track down some pivot bushings (if you haven't already);there appears to be a bit of free play there
- ozlegacy
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:41 am
- Location: Sydney
Postby ozlegacy » Wed May 21, 2008 10:44 pm
Ok no heat gun but plenty of hair dryers, also have access to a oxy but that might be a tad hotnzdans wrote:there appears to be a bit of free play there
Re the bearings, if you mean the last pic thats cause I didnt screw the cap all the way in just put it on to demonstrate where it went, to me it appears to be just a cylinder of steel in that hole, is there actually bearings in there?
- ozlegacy
- Posts: 529
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 9:41 am
- Location: Sydney
Postby ozlegacy » Thu May 22, 2008 2:29 pm
Nope being based in Sydney they are prob a bit far
Haven't decided who to get to poweder coat it yet, but have some friends in mechanical industry so assumming won't be to hard to find, I also don't need a million dollar job as this is more of a fun project rather than a historic restoration etc.
Haven't decided who to get to poweder coat it yet, but have some friends in mechanical industry so assumming won't be to hard to find, I also don't need a million dollar job as this is more of a fun project rather than a historic restoration etc.
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