Questions about purchasing bicycles and parts
Yes 22-23 are noticeably harder than 25's. But a lot will depend also on the tyre choice / tube... frame / wheels etc.
What frame has a tight clearance even on 23's?... seems a bit extreme.
The clearance issue is height not width.
Edit: then again I could be wrong as I assumed a wider tyre will also be taller, but a 700x ??c is the outer diameter apparently.
The clearance with a 23c is only a couple of mm and I'm pretty sure I read on the Cervelo forum a 25c rubs.
IME 23mm tyres feel no different to 25mm tyres. They where completely different tyres (23mm Michelin Lithions, 25mm Kenda Kontender) so that could be a factor too. I generally like having tyres over-inflated for my weight because I hate that spongy feeling you get (Michelin suggest 86psi for my weight, I run 115psi). Everyone is different, I say you experiment with a few things and form your own opinion on what works best for you.
Got one but its not too bad comfort wise and absolutely hammers compared to My Azzurri
For the OP I have no experience using 25 mm tyres but haven't had any cause to complain using 23mm ones. I'm about 81 kg and run 110 psi in clinchers.
If you want comfort go tubular. My 22mm corsa evo cx tubulars feel as good at 160-180 as the clinchers do at the lower pressure.
what about tubless? I'm thinking about converting my wheels to tubless, but it seems like a technology that never really got developed... If I remember correctly, TooLongLegs runs tubless...
You haven't even tried latex tubes and you own a S5? Have you been living under a rock or something?
I've got them on two of my three bikes. I notice the difference more on the MTB where 50% of drag is rolling resistance. As latex gives 10% better roll (see below) that means a 5% total improvement, so noticeable. I found they improved comfort too. On the road bike by comparison I only noticed it at the top end ~50Km/h it appeared to gain 1 or 2 Km/h. Seemed to make no noticeable difference to comfort that I could detect, but I'd say it's doing something from what I've seen on the MTB.
http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/tec ... eel-energy
Probably a good idea to ignore min and max pressures which appear to be dreamed up by sales people. My Rubino Pros say min 100psi. I run 85psi front 95psi rear usually. Probably a better idea to go by the graph below and then use trial and error from there to get the best pressures for the terrain you ride.
A calculator adapted from above article:
http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pre ... lator.html
Not under a rock, but I am in the country. We're a bit slow up this way
Thanks for the info, I'll have to give them a try, though I race on tubulars which have a latex tube.
Do you get more punctures with them and can they be patched as easily as a rubber tube?
I haven't got more punctures with them. Some say you get less as the tube can stretch around the intruding object and when you do the leak is smaller. I've found they patch OK with the normal patches and glue (vulcanizing fluid).
I don't run tubeless anymore except on my Mtb. Mainly because latex is great and you don't get punctures here like you do in the glass strewn wastelands of oz .
The only trouble I have with latex is they are a bit more heat sensitive especially on the big descents I do... ie don't pump them up to hard in the big mountains.
Also when I change tyres, which I do fairly often as I like newish tyres on for racing I find it hard to reuse the tube as they stretch a bit and the Michelin green tubes that I run are quite big for a 23mm already.
I am just about to go searching for some small 29'er latex tubes to run in my 32mm cx tyres .
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