Are 140mm rotors any good
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Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby Bentnose » Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:04 am
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby MichaelB » Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:55 am
Based on my experience with 180 or 160mm front rotors over 10,000km
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby Crittski » Sat Sep 29, 2012 11:55 am
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby Nobody » Sat Sep 29, 2012 1:04 pm
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby Bentnose » Sat Sep 29, 2012 6:43 pm
Did you have a 160mm on before? Most disc CX bikes tend to come with 160mm rotors, bit hard to test a bikes brakes out properly without a decent ride.Nobody wrote:The primary reason I put a 185 on the front of my CX bike is hand strength operating the levers from the hoods is less than ideal.
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby Nobody » Sat Sep 29, 2012 8:02 pm
If you buy it, I suggest you try the brakes before you change them, making sure you bed them in properly before forming an opinion. You may like them.
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby Mulger bill » Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:32 pm
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby Bentnose » Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:11 am
I don't know why they specced such small rotors, its never going to be a light bike being all steel. I didn't think brake fade was an issue with cable discs.Mulger bill wrote:Weightweenieness? I run 160/160 on the commuter (Kona Dewdrop, BB7r) and think they work fine. IMO, smaller rotors will heat up faster under heavy use and fade quicker.
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby jacks1071 » Sun Sep 30, 2012 8:59 pm
I've had serious brake fade on our tandem with cabled Avid BB5's - cable operated you havn't got fluid to boil leaving you with nothing but they will still fade when over heated. Some cable operated brakes have plastic parts on them as well which can melt causing failure.Bentnose wrote:I don't know why they specced such small rotors, its never going to be a light bike being all steel. I didn't think brake fade was an issue with cable discs.Mulger bill wrote:Weightweenieness? I run 160/160 on the commuter (Kona Dewdrop, BB7r) and think they work fine. IMO, smaller rotors will heat up faster under heavy use and fade quicker.
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby Bentnose » Thu Oct 04, 2012 6:12 am
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby JustJames » Thu Oct 04, 2012 9:20 am
1. Green fade - caused by pads/disks not being properly bedded in.
2. Fluid fade - brake fluid (or more correctly, water absorbed by the hygroscopic fluid) boils and the pedal/lever goes mushy.
3. Pad fade - the pad exceeds its design temperature and ceases to be effective.
Green fade and pad fade can happen to any disc set up.
Fluid fade can happen to a disk setup that uses a hygroscopic (water absorbing) hydraulic fluid. It shouldn't be an issue for bicycle brake systems that use mineral oil as brake fluid.
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby jacks1071 » Thu Oct 04, 2012 12:45 pm
The day we had fade on our tandem it would have been 3. Pad fade. You could smell the brakes burning, brakes were still functional but power was reducing and an increasingly rapid rate - I wasn't left with nothing though. I think if we had hydraulic brakes in that situation the overheated pads would have quickly turned into boiled fluid at which time you'd have nothing.JustJames wrote:There are three types of 'fade':
1. Green fade - caused by pads/disks not being properly bedded in.
2. Fluid fade - brake fluid (or more correctly, water absorbed by the hygroscopic fluid) boils and the pedal/lever goes mushy.
3. Pad fade - the pad exceeds its design temperature and ceases to be effective.
Green fade and pad fade can happen to any disc set up.
Fluid fade can happen to a disk setup that uses a hygroscopic (water absorbing) hydraulic fluid. It shouldn't be an issue for bicycle brake systems that use mineral oil as brake fluid.
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Re: Are 140mm rotors any good
Postby queequeg » Thu Oct 04, 2012 1:37 pm
Could this also be influenced by braking technique? Down long descents, I can imagine that riding the brakes is not going to do any good to the pads, but if you use the brakes sparingly then they shouldn't overheat. That is, apply to reduce speed and then release.jacks1071 wrote:The day we had fade on our tandem it would have been 3. Pad fade. You could smell the brakes burning, brakes were still functional but power was reducing and an increasingly rapid rate - I wasn't left with nothing though. I think if we had hydraulic brakes in that situation the overheated pads would have quickly turned into boiled fluid at which time you'd have nothing.JustJames wrote:There are three types of 'fade':
1. Green fade - caused by pads/disks not being properly bedded in.
2. Fluid fade - brake fluid (or more correctly, water absorbed by the hygroscopic fluid) boils and the pedal/lever goes mushy.
3. Pad fade - the pad exceeds its design temperature and ceases to be effective.
Green fade and pad fade can happen to any disc set up.
Fluid fade can happen to a disk setup that uses a hygroscopic (water absorbing) hydraulic fluid. It shouldn't be an issue for bicycle brake systems that use mineral oil as brake fluid.
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