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11 posts • Page 1 of 1
I have decided to try and save some money buy doing it myself
I have a 105 53/39 standard crank and will be replacing it with a 105 5750 50/34 compact crank along with a new chain and rear cassette.
Are these instructions and tools required correct??
1 - Remove non drive side pedal arm only and then pull the drive side crank out (Maybe having to move the FD up out of the way
I have seen crank pullers online but from what I understand and i could easily be wrong that tool is not required for these hollowtech cranks
2 - Put in the new compact crank by pushing it back through the BB and re-attaching the non drive side pedal arm. ( align FD to sit as close as possible to teeth without touching)
3 Remove and replace 11-25 cassette with 11-28 cassette with a chain whip and lockring tool
4 - Fit new105 chain hoping it fits without taking any links out
I did search youtube but found no video or photographic instructions on these cranks
Thanks in advance
External Bearing Crank Systems (Hollowtech II, MegaeXo, Giga X Pipe, X-type, Campagnolo Ultra Torque)
try Google for Hollowtech cranksets instal/remove videos
You will need to shorten the chain. search Sheldon Browns site
I use a dead blow hammer to knock the crankset out.
Had to google it, gotta get one. My wooden mallet is showing its age.
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
meh - i use the palm of my hand
Assuming your current chain is the correct length, your new chain will need to be shortened to the same length (only by fluke since you're removing 3 teeth from the front and adding 3 teeth to the back).
'12 Avanti Cadent 1.0 (Roadie)
'13 Specialized Secteur Disc (Commuter)
'04 Giant Yukon (MTB)
It's a pretty straight forward operation - I've done it a few times. The crank will slide out with a gentle tap - from your palm or I used a small scrap of wood.
When installing the new cranks, make sure you tighten the little black cap first - gentle finger tight is all that's required. There's a YouTube video that describes it but I can't find the link. His method was somewhat amusing "nip it up, back it off and nip it up again", but it works. The key is to have no movement in the cranks but no sideways pressure on the bearings either.
Then make sure you torque the crank arm bolts up properly - and re-torque them after 100km. You wont enjoy the sensation of the left crank arm coming off under load.
Enjoy 34x28 - you'll get up some serious inclines with that! It will be a HUGE difference from 39x25
They are brilliant, except when you get flesh caught between and object and the hammer. Hurts even MORE than a normal hammer.
BTW, I've always just pulled mine out by hand - no external force required.
What's the general thinking on replacing the BB when replacing the chaninset, considering they are quite cheap. I would be thinking maybe if its done over 1000kms? Or perhaps if you are doing it after a rainy season? Or take the cranks out, spin the bearings and if its not smooth? (Would be annoying if you found this without a spare BB on hand)
After only 1000kms? Are you kidding?
In any case, these chainsets are so easy to remove and replace you could almost carry spare bearings in your pocket.
Cycle touring blog and tour journals: whispering wheels...
While trying to locate a squeak I pulled my cranks out, while doing that I gave the BB bearings a spin. Left side buttery smooth, right side crunchy as good peanut butter! This was after about 1250km, most of that over a wettish Sydney winter.
Apparently Shimano external BBs aren't meant to be serviceable, a Tiagra BB in my case. But I found a site that gave some instructions. Bearings are press fit so had to make do and try and "flush" them as best I could. Once done spinning still a little rough but much better. Not sure loose bearings would work in these BB's.
At about $17, I bought a new Tiagra BB and I'm going to ride the old one for a while yet before replacing, probably another year. That's cheap enough that if you are replacing a chain set it may be worth doing the BB at the same time? that was the reason for the question.
You will definitely need to take links out of the chain - loop the chain around the large chain ring on the front and the largest sprocket on the cassette (without passing it through the rear derailleur) then allow for 2 chain link overlap - http://gearinches.com/blog/cycling/bicycle-chain-length , and more importantly you will need to lower the front derailleur, once lowered you'll then need to adjust the cable tension.
11 posts • Page 1 of 1
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