WTB - MEL - Road Wheels (-1400g)

[15wilsonwu]

Hey guys, can anyone offer me a set of road wheels thats about 1400g for less than $400? The color must be black though.

BTW, It would be nice if it's in a rather good condotion...

Wilson

[mattwilkinson]

Hey guys, can anyone offer me a set of road wheels thats about 1400g for less than $400? The color must be black though.

Wilson

1400g for less than $400 might be tough if you would want some new.

But Pro-Lite Braccianos would be well recommended.
At 1482g you wouldn't really go wrong and for $399 brand new..
http://www.pro-liteoz.com/store/index.p ... oductId=19

[15wilsonwu]

Hey guys, can anyone offer me a set of road wheels thats about 1400g for less than $400? The color must be black though.

Wilson

1400g for less than $400 might be tough if you would want some new.

But Pro-Lite Braccianos would be well recommended.
At 1482g you wouldn't really go wrong and for $399 brand new..
http://www.pro-liteoz.com/store/index.p ... oductId=19

Yea, i'm about to buy them, right now im just seeing if i can get a better deal, LOL.

[usernameforme]

Look on http://www.bikehubstore.com , if you are sub 65kg you should be able to get away with a Kinlin XR-200 rim. You could easily build a sub 1400g wheel for your budget, may go slightly over if you get a wheelbuilder to do it for you. If I remember correctly from my last build, (kinlin XR-200, sapim CX-Ray spokes, brass nipples and BHS Ultralight & Superlight hubs) they weigh in at 1328g and cost $362... You could easily do a similar build with Sapim Race spokes and different hubs (the SL79 & SL211) for $237, which should still come in at just over 1400g. You have plenty of options if you go custom, very few if you go factory. If you weigh slightly more I'd either beef up the spoke count (I used 24/28 and it holds up fine for my 57kg) to 28/32 or if you are much heavier than I am (say 70ish) than you may want to consider the XR-270 rim, which is about 124g heavier per wheel, but is stiffer and should have marginally better aerodynamics

[usernameforme]

1400g for less than $400 might be tough if you would want some new.

Look on weight weenies, plenty of people manage it and still have money to spare

[15wilsonwu]

Look on http://www.bikehubstore.com , if you are sub 65kg you should be able to get away with a Kinlin XR-200 rim. You could easily build a sub 1400g wheel for your budget, may go slightly over if you get a wheelbuilder to do it for you. If I remember correctly from my last build, (kinlin XR-200, sapim CX-Ray spokes, brass nipples and BHS Ultralight & Superlight hubs) they weigh in at 1328g and cost $362... You could easily do a similar build with Sapim Race spokes and different hubs (the SL79 & SL211) for $237, which should still come in at just over 1400g. You have plenty of options if you go custom, very few if you go factory. If you weigh slightly more I'd either beef up the spoke count (I used 24/28 and it holds up fine for my 57kg) to 28/32 or if you are much heavier than I am (say 70ish) than you may want to consider the XR-270 rim, which is about 124g heavier per wheel, but is stiffer and should have marginally better aerodynamics

Holy crap, I weight exactly at 57kg.... Did you build yours yourself?

[usernameforme]

yes, if you have no experience in building wheels I recommend you go for a slightly heavier/stronger rim (over 400g). Wheelbuilding is very challenging (but not difficult ) and for your first build you want to make it as easy as possible. I'm sure you should have some local wheelbuilders in your area, might be worth a few trips to your LBSes to get a few quotes. $50 is a decent price, $100 is pushing it. If you are still growing, you may also need to factor that in, if you happen to have a growth spurt and add 20kg, you will find the XR-200 rim flexy (if that's a word)

[15wilsonwu]

Look on http://www.bikehubstore.com , if you are sub 65kg you should be able to get away with a Kinlin XR-200 rim. You could easily build a sub 1400g wheel for your budget, may go slightly over if you get a wheelbuilder to do it for you. If I remember correctly from my last build, (kinlin XR-200, sapim CX-Ray spokes, brass nipples and BHS Ultralight & Superlight hubs) they weigh in at 1328g and cost $362... You could easily do a similar build with Sapim Race spokes and different hubs (the SL79 & SL211) for $237, which should still come in at just over 1400g. You have plenty of options if you go custom, very few if you go factory. If you weigh slightly more I'd either beef up the spoke count (I used 24/28 and it holds up fine for my 57kg) to 28/32 or if you are much heavier than I am (say 70ish) than you may want to consider the XR-270 rim, which is about 124g heavier per wheel, but is stiffer and should have marginally better aerodynamics

BTW, do you mind telling me how can the amount of spokes affect wheel?

[usernameforme]

I'm not an expert but I'll try to help; The fewer spokes there are in a wheel, the larger the unsupported section of the rim is. If you are light enough you may not notice this, but if you are pushing the limits of the rim you may find that they are too flexy. To compensate this, you can use a heavier, stronger rim. or you can use more spokes (to a certain extent). If you look back when 72 spoked wheels were the norm, a 200g alloy rim was achievable! Today the lightest Alloy rims are around 383g, almost double the weight. I'd try to use just enough spokes so that the unsupported section of the rim is small enough for you. How many is enough? I won't be able to help you too much with that one. Experienced wheelbuilders will be more help as they would have built 1000s of wheels for other people and may have been able to experiment with what's hot and what's not. Does this answer your question?

[15wilsonwu]

I'm not an expert but I'll try to help; The fewer spokes there are in a wheel, the larger the unsupported section of the rim is. If you are light enough you may not notice this, but if you are pushing the limits of the rim you may find that they are too flexy. To compensate this, you can use a heavier, stronger rim. or you can use more spokes (to a certain extent). If you look back when 72 spoked wheels were the norm, a 200g alloy rim was achievable! Today the lightest Alloy rims are around 383g, almost double the weight. I'd try to use just enough spokes so that the unsupported section of the rim is small enough for you. How many is enough? I won't be able to help you too much with that one. Experienced wheelbuilders will be more help as they would have built 1000s of wheels for other people and may have been able to experiment with what's hot and what's not. Does this answer your question?

Yes, it definitly did and thanks a lot! I just have one more question, hehe. How do you know how long the spoke should be?

[15wilsonwu]

This is the current specs, have'nt decided on the spokes yet.

[Mulger bill]

Go HERE and buy the ebook Wilson, it has everything you need to build wheels. There's an online spoke length calculator too.

Shaun

[15wilsonwu]

Go HERE and buy the ebook Wilson, it has everything you need to build wheels. There's an online spoke length calculator too.

Shaun

Thanks, but I guess i'll refere to sheldon brown's information, since it's FREE!!!!:D

[Purt]

This is the current specs, have'nt decided on the spokes yet.

Laser spokes should be fine. I'd get the SL218 hub instead and also look at the C472W 23mm wide rim.

Do alot of youtube watching about wheel building. If you get stuck you can always head down the lbs and it will still be cheaper.

[Dan]

Go HERE and buy the ebook Wilson, it has everything you need to build wheels. There's an online spoke length calculator too.

Shaun

Thanks, but I guess i'll refere to sheldon brown's information, since it's FREE!!!!:D

That's the spirit. Wouldn't want to invest $14 in your own safety - I mean, its not like you're building a crucial part of your bicycle for the first time, is it?

[usernameforme]

Go HERE and buy the ebook Wilson, it has everything you need to build wheels. There's an online spoke length calculator too.

Shaun

Thanks, but I guess i'll refere to sheldon brown's information, since it's FREE!!!!:D

That's the spirit. Wouldn't want to invest $14 in your own safety - I mean, its not like you're building a crucial part of your bicycle for the first time, is it?

while the book has good information in it, Sheldon's site is more than enough. Go for the XR-270 rim, it is slightly lighter, just as strong and should be more aerodynamic. You will also need a trueing stand. I have one of these. And I say you should use 12mm nipples and not 14mm, 14mm nipples may throw off your spoke length

[15wilsonwu]

Heres my new specs, i've changed the rims to XR-270 and the nipples to 12mm. Im also gonna leave the spokes to my LBS to decide since i still cant really get the required spoke length.



And I think im gonna leave the building of the wheel to my local bike shop instead...

[usernameforme]

use a spoke length calculator, I use this one: http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/

If you're going to leave the build to your LBS I'd consider the XR-200 rim, you will save alot of weight (about 120g, on the rim thats alot)

[clack3rz]

I decided to give wheel building a go not so long ago.
I bought the book mentioned above - best $ I spent towards my wheelset. I printed it out and followed it step by step. I actually read through it a couple of times before starting.
Also using the advice of building stripping and rebuilding was priceless, I travel a bit for work, and took the rims/spokes/hubs/etc with me and it passed the time quite nicely in the hotel room. Partially building, undoing, and rebuilding made the final assault so much easier. Every time I understood more and it got easier.

For me it was about getting a set of unique wheels, built to my requirements, but also learning and understanding the 'mystery' that is wheelbuilding.
In the end it wasn't such a mystery, but more a learned craft, that gave a lot of satisfaction with the end result.

Personally I'd give it a go - just be patient. You can even take them down to the LBS after you've finished. Worst that can happen is that it doesn't work out and you need to get the LBS involved, to finish it off.

[15wilsonwu]

use a spoke length calculator, I use this one: http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/

If you're going to leave the build to your LBS I'd consider the XR-200 rim, you will save alot of weight (about 120g, on the rim thats alot)

The reason I choose the XR-270 is because of the rin depth. The XR-200 has 23mm and they look way too boring in my opinion. I mean, can 120g affect the performance that much? Wait, one more thing... Are they safe to buy from?

[15wilsonwu]

I decided to give wheel building a go not so long ago.
I bought the book mentioned above - best $ I spent towards my wheelset. I printed it out and followed it step by step. I actually read through it a couple of times before starting.
Also using the advice of building stripping and rebuilding was priceless, I travel a bit for work, and took the rims/spokes/hubs/etc with me and it passed the time quite nicely in the hotel room. Partially building, undoing, and rebuilding made the final assault so much easier. Every time I understood more and it got easier.

For me it was about getting a set of unique wheels, built to my requirements, but also learning and understanding the 'mystery' that is wheelbuilding.
In the end it wasn't such a mystery, but more a learned craft, that gave a lot of satisfaction with the end result.

Personally I'd give it a go - just be patient. You can even take them down to the LBS after you've finished. Worst that can happen is that it doesn't work out and you need to get the LBS involved, to finish it off.

I see... how long did it take you to actually finih building the wheel?

[15wilsonwu]

Guys, im having some trouble with measuring the ideal spoke length... I've found the Flange Distance, but i'm not sure what they mean by Hub flange diameters... Does it mean the PCD?

[usernameforme]

120g of weight savings on the rim is alot. Its the difference between a nippy wheel and a wheel that accelerates like crazy. The XR-270 should have better aerodynamics than the XR-200, but that will be very marginal at best

PCD stands for Pitch Circle diameter and according to the diagram, it should be the Hub flange diameter your looking for

[15wilsonwu]

120g of weight savings on the rim is alot. Its the difference between a nippy wheel and a wheel that accelerates like crazy. The XR-270 should have better aerodynamics than the XR-200, but that will be very marginal at best

PCD stands for Pitch Circle diameter and according to the diagram, it should be the Hub flange diameter your looking for

Thanks for the help, but the actual reason im choosing deeper rims is for the easthetics, not the performance... hehe

[usernameforme]

Go with a 20/24 spoke count if you are using the XR-270 and perhaps a 16:8 lacing on the rear if you are getting it built by a LBS, It should be more than enough for your weight. The XR-270 is supposedly as stiff as the XR-300, if thats true be ready for a harsher ride. Have you looked at the BHS C472W? Its a bit deeper but it has a wider rim so IME (with wider rims) it will be a softer ride, you take a 80g penalty per wheel though... Also, if you are getting it built by your LBS you may wish to consider alloy nipples, they are about 20g lighter but can be rounded off easily. If your LBS has a competent wheelbuilder, they shouldn't have any issues with alloy nipples. I personally build with brass because I don't feel like I'm ready to build with alloy yet, B for beginners and A for advanced.