Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
16 posts • Page 1 of 1
Took my bike in for a service a few months ago, the gear changes have actually been worse since the service than before I took it in.
Is it likely that the gearset is wearing, or did the bike mech just f@ck it up?
How hard is it to adjust your gears at home so they shift perfectly?
Going onto a larger cog? Turn the barrel adjuster counter clockwise (on the rear mech or on the shifter) to tighten the cable slightly, just a quarter of a turn or so at a time and try it out.
Rear derailleur adjustment
Last edited by Deanj on Mon May 26, 2008 5:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just undo the inline barrel adjuster a little. It should be next to the gear shifter, which means you can wind it out a half-turn while you're riding along.
If it's not there, it will be next to the derailleur.
If it takes more than 1 turn, you'll need to delve a little deeper. Check out the Shimano web site for an installation instruction on a derailleur. You should also be able to find good instruction on the Park Tools web site. (edit: ... as linked to by Needsapush ....)
With the barrel at the RD, you'll probably end up needing to put your bike on a stand to do the adjustment. Give it a go anyway, but if it doesn't work out, you'll know what to do when you get home.
Please don't "muck around". Go and read the Shimano manual or one of the other info sites on the net. With the adjuster, you can actually over adjust and end up losing one cog on one of two ends.
Bianchi, Ridley, Montague, GT, Garmin and All things Apple
Sorry, just got back, anyway the advice you've been given is good. Get down behind the bike (in line with the cogs and the mech) and have a good squizz at what happens when you shift the barrel adjuster, paying particular attention to lining up the mech cage (below) with the cogs.
Also, examine your cable run carefully, often when a change is slow or sticky it can be that the cable run is impeded by crud, lack of lubrication, worn cable or cable outer.
Usually you won't need to do it, but if there is sticky crud around where the cables enter the outers then a bit of light lube and a wipe with a rag should fix it.
Only if the cable is dragging slowly, you should be able to feel it at the shifters/brake levers - the lever won't return as quickly as the spring would be working against a bit of friction.
Sounds like a bit of cable stretch is all then, nice fix Janus.
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
16 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Exabot [Bot], Pb