Shimano Uniglide/Hyperglide hub transplant

[DJIntegr8]

Currently running a first generation Shimano 105 rear hub on my commuter. This is a 7speed, 126mm OLN, Uniglide only hub. Came with an 11-23 Uniglide cassette, looked around and found a 13-28 to help out with the hills.. Eventually this wore down after enough kms to cause chain slipping, so I flipped the cogs (good trick with the Uniglide is that they are symmetrical). Now it's come time to replace the cassette again, I want to convert the hub to be Hyperglide compatible. There wasn't a lot of detailed information out there, so I thought I might document this transplant. Basically all you need is a replacement freehub body, and an axle seal from a Hyperglide hub.

Picked up a few hubs from eBay to pull apart and see what's what. Only cost me $15 for these three. Lots of pitting in 2 of them, stuffed freehub in the other.


Top: Shimano 105 FH-1050 (Uniglide, 126mm)
Middle: Shimano 105SC FH-1055 (Uniglide/Hyperglide, 126mm)
Bottom: Shimano 105SC FH-1056 (Hyperglide, 130mm)

I bought a 7-spd Shimano STX-RC freehub body from Wiggle for ~$25. This is a replacement for 126mm hubs, Hyperglide compatible only.


Removing old Uniglide cassette, requires 2 chain whips as the last cog is the locknut.


Decided to use the FH-1056, 130mm hub as a donor. Removing cone locknuts from freewheel end first


Removing cone locknuts from NDS first on the FH-1050.


Clean bearing hub face on the FH-1050


Remove freehub body w/ 10mm allen key


Left: Shimano STX-RC (7 speed, Hyperglide)
Right: Shimano 105 (7 speed, Uniglide)

The part that is missing from the Shimano STX-RC replacement is the axle seal to the freehub body. This is taken from the donor FH-1056 axle. Remove the plastic circlips from the FH-1050 and replace with the rubber seal.


Top: Shimano 105 FH-1050 axle
Bottom: Shimano 105SC FH-1056 axle


STX-RC freehub body on 105 hub


Regreasing bearings


Relocking with new seals


Hyperglide 14-28 cassette

Hope this was helpful for anyone thinking of doing this!

Brendan

[tripstobaltimore]

Thanks for that, this may come in very useful for me. Much appreciated.

[Dan]

Its refreshing to see a detailed description of processes like this. It reminds one that things which seem straightforward to oneself may not necessarily be so for others. Bravo!

[Wazza]

Brendan,
Thanks for this, I am about to change one myself and this is exactly what I need.
Cheers

[Dan]

I might add don't forget to redish your wheel after shifting to 130 OLD...

[ldrcycles]

Removing old Uniglide cassette, requires 2 chain whips as the last cog is the locknut.

OMGosh so THAT'S how you get those things off!! I've seen a couple of clusters like that and never had any idea what to do with them, i thought something had broken off. Thanks for that .

[DJIntegr8]

I might add don't forget to redish your wheel after shifting to 130 OLD...

The 7spd STX-RC freehub was the same width as the old 7spd 105 freehub, so it was a direct replacement for 126mm. You are right though, you could potentially transplant an 8/9/10spd freehub body onto the hub shell. Most Shimano freehub bodies are interchangeable. A longer axle would also have to be swapped from a 130mm hub. A cheap way of getting more gears on the bike, saves having to do a wheel rebuild as well.

Brendan

[Dan]

Yes, you're right - still a 126 I've done this a number of times from 126 out to 130, replacing the axle as well as the freehub. In all honesty I didn't redish as the 2mm wasn't a concern for me - but may have strength implications for the wheel.