Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia

by **bardygrub** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 6:11 am

Hi All,

Thinking about changing my chain. Have done about 4000k and about 10+ hours on the indoor trainer and the bike is about 6 months old. Have fsa gossamer cranks and a shimano cassette.

Going to get the wiggle conti tyre ,tube pack.The Mavic Ksyriumas that came with the bike are just about shot!

I purchased this bike from my lbs and got a year free servicing, went there yesterday to price some tyres,tubes and chain but they are more than twice the price, if not more!!

I feel a bit bad if i am to turn up for my next service with a new chain (that i didnt purchase from them) but get them to change it over.

What do you guys think?

by **BNA** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 7:27 am

by **Dan** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 7:27 am

I'd say buy a chain breaker with the $ you save and change it yourself

by **wardie** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 7:28 am

I work off the theory that if I can change it myself, then I'll buy it online. For everyone else, I'll pay for a shop mechanic to do it.

I am lucky though as one of the guys in the soccer team I coached last season is a bike mechanic so when possible I get to see how things are done so my skills are increasing. He showed me how to change a set of cranks on Monday so that's one less thing I'll have to go to the shop for.

And I can also change brake pads - which as per a previous post was causing me grief.

by **Ross** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 8:59 am

Just get the chain that matches your groupset. If you have a Shimano 105 groupset then buy Shimano 105 chain.
I find LBS' generally don't mind fitting components that you buy online (make sure you get the correct part) but some do seem to charge a premium for it which eats into the savings you make buying it online in the first place.

by **bychosis** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:07 am

If you are buying a chain online pick up a chain measuring tool lwhile you are at it. Makes it a lot easier to know when the chain is due for a change.

by **Dan** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:12 am

Ross wrote:Just get the chain that matches your groupset. If you have a Shimano 105 groupset then buy Shimano 105 chain.

Agree here, but I feel proprietary parts are overpriced. A Wippermann 10 speed would be fine at 5.9mm and half the price, most likely.

by **Ross** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:30 am

Don't know how much a Wipperman chain is but a 105 chain is only $20, cheap enough to buy two or so times a year.

by **bardygrub** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:55 am

Dan wrote:
Ross wrote:Just get the chain that matches your groupset. If you have a Shimano 105 groupset then buy Shimano 105 chain.

Agree here, but I feel proprietary parts are overpriced. A Wippermann 10 speed would be fine at 5.9mm and half the price, most likely.

Have thought that i would just get the 105 chain but have been told that might be better getting a ultegra, durace chain. does having a better chain increase performance?

by **Fixie82** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:09 am

Does your chain have a magic or quick link? Its only a two minute job to change it out if it does, these links look quite different from normal links so should be easy to spot.

I would recommend KMC chains, long wearing, light and works great on both Shimano and SRAM drive trains (or a mix of both n my case). Have been using them for the past 3 years and have never snapped one. Just make sure you buy the appropriate speed chain and then choose how light you want it. If you want bling you can also get the chains in a gold finish.

If you're looking for extra marginal gains the Dura Ace chains supposedly offer the least amount of friction and therefore decrease the Watts needed to maintain a certain speed. Take that advice with a grain of salt but this guy http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/f ... ncy-35694/ is doing some interesting testing.

by **bardygrub** » Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:15 am

Fixie82 wrote:Does your chain have a magic or quick link? Its only a two minute job to change it out if it does, these links look quite different from normal links so should be easy to spot.

I would recommend KMC chains, long wearing, light and works great on both Shimano and SRAM drive trains (or a mix of both n my case). Have been using them for the past 3 years and have never snapped one. Just make sure you buy the appropriate speed chain and then choose how light you want it. If you want bling you can also get the chains in a gold finish.

If you're looking for extra marginal gains the Dura Ace chains supposedly offer the least amount of friction and therefore decrease the Watts needed to maintain a certain speed. Take that advice with a grain of salt but this guy http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/f ... ncy-35694/ is doing some interesting testing.

Wow! 10 watts in lube alone. Might have to purchase some good lube and stick to cooking with what i put on my chain. :lol: