Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
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Nothing wrong with kero. If you're at all sensitive to petrochemicals, use it in open air and wear nitrile gloves.
I use the rough side of stickyback velcro stuck to a hacksaw blade to clean between sprockets and the end of the blade to gently scrape the jockeys clear of muck before a damp rag gets the rest off.
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
Absolutely - but since I'm not using a cloth that is soaking wet, the soapy water isn't running off anywhere. My bike only really gets dirty in areas where there are no metal parts.
I don't have to do too much cleaning, it stays pretty clean unless it has been raining.
Trek Madone 4.5, Giant TCR Advanced SL3 ISP Di2 (the green machine)
Kero will clean the jockey wheels
If they are your worry though, just get a rag, grab them and turn the cranks backwards slowly (careful not to catch your rag in the drive train). Job done and you didn't have to wash anything.
A big reason why I like Kero for cleaning is if any of it gets into your hubs or anywhere else on your bike it will break down the grease but at least its not going to corrode anything, unlike degreaser which can be really nasty stuff.
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Think that's probably a better way. Might also try the simple warm water + toothbrush to get between the gears
Forget about the toothbrush.......buy a cheapy bottle brush.......dip that in kero, scrub clean, and then tip some hot water over the cassette and jockey wheels.
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