A Riveting Tail
- Mulger bill
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A Riveting Tail
Postby Mulger bill » Fri Jan 04, 2013 3:39 pm
I found a somewhat painful problem last night when I took the duallie out for an evening fang in the local pine forest yesterday.
Saddle is a Swift with those beautiful big copper rivets. The ones on the corners of the cantle plate just above the point where the rail joins are sitting a little proud leaving a somewhat sharp edge facing forward to grab at my bum when I move around.
Now I could just grab the old chippies hammer from the shed and belt away until they're flush again but I'd rather not run the risk of damaging a fine bit of kit by going off half cocked.
I seek advice from those with more knowledge of the craft as to the best way to get a quality result. Anybody?
Thanks in advance.
Shaun
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby HappyHumber » Fri Jan 04, 2013 3:44 pm
I mean, copper is pretty soft. I wouldn't worry too much. If anything, maybe support the underside with a small piece of wood where you can ?
Wikipedia even backs me up:
The original function of the hammer was to peen riveted or welded material, which makes it as flexible as the surrounding metal. Today, the ball end of the hammer is used to cut gaskets, expand and shape the free end of copper roves, light rivets, and "set" rivets (which completes the joint).
Hit me up via the BNA dm; I'll get an alert. If y'know, you know.
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby ironhanglider » Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:29 pm
It depends how accurate you are when swinging a hammer. (A chippie once called me lightning for a reason, and it wasn't speed) I solved a similar issue with a steel rod accurately placed on the rivet and I then tapped the rod with a hammer. This reduced the chance of marking the leather.Mulger bill wrote: The ones on the corners of the cantle plate just above the point where the rail joins are sitting a little proud leaving a somewhat sharp edge facing forward to grab at my bum when I move around.
...
I seek advice from those with more knowledge of the craft as to the best way to get a quality result. Anybody?
...
Cheers,
Cameron
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby Clydesdale Scot » Fri Jan 04, 2013 5:29 pm
If you hammer the rivet too many times you may work harden the copper, not a good idea.
and Shaun, these are the first attempts at handmade copper rivets I wrote about in the Shockstop honking rubbers thread.
copper tube, suitably sized copper 'blanks', copper wire and propane and oxygen, metal files and sandpaper
just sitting in a old leather cover. They will go in a sprung saddle cover I am soon to do.
My copper 'blanks' are a little larger than the biggest Brooks rivets (17.6mm vs 16.5)
some of these shown will be used for practice riveting as they do not pass my quality control inspection.
I use thicker leather than Brooks and the Brooks rivets are not long enough.
- Mulger bill
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby Mulger bill » Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:15 pm
Methinks I'll try Camerons suggestion. I've got a suitable drift and I don't want to damage the leather any more than the previous stacks have already done. Nearly cried the first time.
Clydesdale, those rivets look amazing, wish I had that sort of skill. Your saddle will look amazing once complete. Now you've got me wondering if I could drill out the rivets on the Swallow on me commuter and go copper...
Shaun
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby Baalzamon » Fri Jan 04, 2013 8:24 pm
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby Wal42 » Fri Jan 04, 2013 9:47 pm
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby Nobody » Fri Jan 04, 2013 9:54 pm
I've done it this way too.ironhanglider wrote:I solved a similar issue with a steel rod accurately placed on the rivet and I then tapped the rod with a hammer. This reduced the chance of marking the leather.
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby Clydesdale Scot » Sat Jan 05, 2013 6:01 pm
to tempt you, remember you need to replace the nose piece before those on the cantleplateMulger bill wrote: Now you've got me wondering if I could drill out the rivets on the Swallow on me commuter and go copper...
and some step-by-step instructions
- Mulger bill
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby Mulger bill » Sat Jan 05, 2013 8:15 pm
A combination of one turn of tension and some gentle (sort of) pounding with a steel drift has the rivets almost flush again, I'll take her out for a quick spin after work tomorrow and see how it feels, might have to go another session.
Thanks for the help lads
Shaun
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby il padrone » Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:04 am
What I did with my Swift. No ill effects.Mulger bill wrote:Now I could just grab the old chippies hammer from the shed and belt away until they're flush again but I'd rather not run the risk of damaging a fine bit of kit by going off half cocked.
"An unjustified and unethical imposition on a healthy activity."
- Mulger bill
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby Mulger bill » Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:57 am
Shaun
London Boy 29/12/2011
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Re: A Riveting Tail
Postby il padrone » Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:39 am
"An unjustified and unethical imposition on a healthy activity."
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