Original offroad cycling
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Has anyone tried the TRP CX9 Linear pull brakes? I find the standard canti's don't quite pull me up as well as I would like on the steep descents
I am thinking of going with the CX9 brakes and fit some swiss stop pads.
Hi Omo. I have em on my 2013 Giant TCX1. Can't fault them yet over 1000km done. Great modulation and 'stand it on the nose' power at any speed. Can't speek of mud or wet weather performance as I live in Perth, did I mention the sand. The Ti hadware the brakes come with is a nice touch, and they look fantastic in my opinion (mine black and silver.) Mine came with Swiss Stop pads too. The only thing is the lack of any adjuster barrel, not an issue on the giant as I have cross top levers with an inline adjuster. I'd say get a couple of in line adjusters to fit up by the bars for on the fly tweeks. 9/10.
I've got the 8.5s with a Rival groupset. I use my bike mainly on fire roads and occasional single track and its great to have brakes that stop. They are so much easier to adjust than the previous cantis.
The 8.5s came with inline adjusters as well.
Thanks for you replies!
My standard canti's are Shimano's with S70C pads. In muddy conditions or CX conditions they are ok. Lately I have been using the bike for some fire road touring in the hills and the brakes don't really cut it. I was originally thinking of changing bikes and going for a bike with disc brakes, but aside from the brakes I really like the Colnago as a CX bike/tourer. So I think I might order some V brakes and see how they go...
S70C pads are low noise, dry conditions pads. In other words hard and less effective in certain situations.
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bm ... himbrbl260
That is fine if you are going to get long pull levers or travel agents. Levers that work for cantis (short pull, road levers) aren't going to work with V brakes.
Last edited by Nobody on Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
You are probably right for extreme muddy conditions due to canti's thicker pads. But I would argue in normal dry conditions or just wet roads that V brakes are excellent with the right setup. I've got an Avid Ultimate on the front with Lifeline coaxial brake cable and Lifeline Professional pads and it is one finger braking with the Avid Speed Dial 7 lever wound out all the way. Best brake I've ever owned for power and modulation in dry conditions. And that's including the BB7s.
http://www.sram.com/avid/products/singl ... -rim-brake
One of the main advantages of the Ultimates is they can be cabled either way so you don't have the big S bend in the cable for the front brake.
The reason I am looking at the TRP CX9 brakes is that (according to their and other websites) they will work with normal (road) brifters. So my take is that no travel agents or long pull levers are needed.
Canti's run the same pads as roadies... all TRP brakes take Shimano shaped pads.
I thought the OP was talking CX bike... so why would he be running mtb levers?... if we are talking flat bar different story.
So they are mini Vs.
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... p=15986715
Sorry. So what you meant was canti's are better than any mini Vs. I got it now...
Just to clarify. The CX9s will work with 'regular' road levers, work fine with my Rival levers. I like the tidy look of the 'noodle' too and the clean look they have without cable boses on the headset/seatpost.
I recon' tyres and the pressures you run make a bigger difference on braking performance than the brakes themself though. Food for thought.
I am ordering a custom Ti Frame and planning to have a chain stay mounted rear brake using TRP CX9's. They will be paired with Shimano Brifters.
Do you guys see any issue with this set-up? Front will have a normal Shimano Caliper. I want to hide the rear brake under the chainstay to have a clean look as possible. I have ruled out the Shimano Direct mount as the frame builder can possibly screw up the holes, and besides, V-Brakes are cheaper too. Thanks
Don't get CX9. Less rim clearance for an unnecessary small power increase.
Get CX8.4. (Or Paul mini moto if you ball hard, or RX5 if you are budget constrained)
If you get non TRP, get adjustable noodles, these are essential.
If you are getting a custom frame, get the posts set as high as possible (give the builder the brake), so you can run the pad at the very bottom, which will maximise your rim clearance / modulation.
Use compressionless housing for the best performance.
And if you're using flat bars, just go straight to MTB V brakes and levers, Shimano XT for example. All the rim clearance and vertical room you could want.
I've used Tektro Oryx (narrow), Shimano R550 (narrow), Avid Shortly Ultimate in wide & narrow, FSA SL-K (wide), Paul Touring & Neoretro (narrow & wide), MAFAC tandem (wide), Froglegg style (wide), and who knows how many others I've forgotten. plus Tektro 926AL (80mm arms), RX5 (85mm arms) minis and have CX8.4 about to be fitted.
There are certain truths:
The shorter the arm, the less cable pull required --> greater rim clearance possible.
Cantis have more rim clearance, but this only really matters in grassy mud or if your rims are horribly out of true.
Cantis with low profile arms and a low straddle and good pads can provide great braking, but the lever used is a factor too, eg Oryx (generally a terrible brake) works very well with a shimano BL-R400 style lever. Some of the old Deore XT medium profile cantis are the best I've ever used.
Cantis are the solution if you want to run tyres over 28mm plus fenders, or monstercross sized tyres.
Mini vees with arms 85mm or less are best.
Mini vees work better with SRAM or hidden gear cable shimano as these pull a little more cable, but they still work well with campy/ext gear cable shimano.
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